Rob

Always enjoyed speaking with him myself. Instumental in directing me on "where to go", (for parts) during my early days upon acquiring my "A" model, and several "B" models. All of the information I have on my trucks was procured by him. Always a joy to converse with and will be missed. R.I.P. Snowy Rob

You probably have stuck plungers. You will have to remove the side cover of the pump (opposite the block side) to check. Go to the library and look at a book with a diagram. It is very easy to figure out with a photo of what is internal to the pump, and what we are talking about. Rob

There is a layout on the backside of the cover for the fuse panel. It can be hard to figger out due to the way the european influence is diagramed. A Mack dealer can print you off a copy. Rob

On the Midliner that I owned, you pushed the key into the switch when you turned it. If you did not push on the key, it would not crank the engine. There is a start relay in the breaker/fuse panel located on the right side of the cab mounted to the firewall, or front end panel. If you can hear the relay click when you turn the ignition switch to the "start" position, the problem is either the starter, solenoid, or associated wiring. I had very good service from my truck in an automotive rollback car carrier application for seven years. Only real drawback to them is you are very limited in parts availability outside of a Mack dealer. Rob

If I remember correctly, his email was Dencmp@aol.com. That has been about four years ago. He sold me some parts and I know I have his contact information, but may take a few days to locate it. Rob

Thanks guys, it works well, just different. I'm getting ready to put it on the road next month and want everything working right. Rob

Tonight I installed a new valve for the tractor brakes. It is the one with the blue round mushroom shaped handle on the right. It is also for tractor brakes only. The old valve did not pop out when the yellow brake release handle was pulled out and the new one does. To release the brakes on the tractor, you now have to first push the yellow knob in, then push the blue knob in. Also the new valve has a spring behind the shaft pushing the valve out when there is no air applied to it. The old one does not. There was really nothing wrong with the operation of the old one but the shaft for the knob was 1/4" in diameter, the new one is 3/8" in diameter. The only replacement knobs I could find were the 3/8" shaft size so I decided to change the valve. Is this normal or do I have something plumbed incorrect? Thanks, Rob

Hi Thad, I don't really know that area at all but can readily find out. I do plan to come to Macungie this year as I'm bringing some parts for another member of this forum. Thanks, Rob 309-219-2070

I spent over $4000.00 getting parts chromed for my A, and B models including three front "Mack" emblems for the grille shells, four left, and four right 1/2 dogs for the hood sides, two glove box, and two instrument panels, two ash receiver shells, and two defroster vents, four Thermodyne, six Diesel, six B-61, two dog stands for the grille shell, two dogs chromed, one 14k gold plated, (this one is my desk ornament). I also had a grille shell plated but it was destroyed in return transit by the freight company. Also had four outer door handles plated, four inner door handles, four window cranks, the expansion bezels for the aforementioned handles, and four headlamp bezels for the B models. Almost forgot, two spotlights branded "Mack" and manufactured by "Unity". There are also numerous small parts that I don't remember until getting back into the boxes. Most of the stuff I sent in was NOS that I've had for 30+ years from when my grandpa retired and in house trucking was phased out. I took all the ornamentation and such they had on the shelves. Never in my wildest dreams did I think some of this stuff could be looked at as "valuable". Rob

Thad, you more than likely have a plunger,(one or more) stuck up in their respective bore(s) from sitting. The pump camshaft is turning but the stuck plunger will not let the rack turn the barrels allowing fuel. When the engine stop cable is pulled, the rack is pulled to the no fuel position where it probably is now. The pump requires positive pressure to the fuel gallery that is supplied by the transfer pump. Since you have checked the filter housing and return line from the pump gallery, the only thing left is the high pressure side which is not getting fuel internally. Take the pump off of the engine, remove the side cover and look for a stuck plunger. the innards look like a cam, and lifter setup for the engine. When the stuck item is located, there will be a space between the cam lobe, and the lifter. You will be able to see the valve spring compressed when it should not be. I usually soak the whole pump in a tub of diesel fuel for a bit and then pry, or force the stuck lifter back down. Once it, or they pop loose, reinstall onto engine and you should have a little better luck. Rob

Dug a lot of graves myself some years back working for a cemetary. Damn hard to dig one for someone you know, and care about. Even harder to push the dirt back in. We never set the headstones or markers, that was done by contractors. I set plenty of US flags for veterans day on my own time out of respect for their service. Glad to hear someone in the trucking industy with a positive story! Especially getting a loan paid off early. Good luck for further success and welcome to the forums!! Rob

Well, the only job I had that I quit from because of a "horses ass" attitude kinda goes like this: Back in the fall/spring of 1980&1981, I worked at a lumber yard that was wholesale only. One particular owner/operator that delivered most, (if not all) our materials from Willamette Industries drove a very nice 1962 B-61 Mack pulling a then new curtainside flat. I used to really enjoy "yakking" with the driver every time he came to deliver. We became quite good friends; more on this later. This was a small "family owned" business that had many local contractors as the stockholders. The president of the company had this college educated, "shit for brains", son that couldn't hold a job working for anyone else, so he wound up as the yard foreman; He really couldn't do anything right there either. One day in January, while raining, (and cold) I was unloading the aforementioned trailer and when about 50% completed, and I, 100% soaked, decided to go inside to warm up. Well low and behold, just as soon as I got my clothes changed, and hair towel dried, Mr. Jackoff, (owners son) walks in and demands that I get the damn truck unloaded! This is of course in front of several persons whom where employees, and not. Not a single one had the gut, or balls, to say anything except the driver whom preceeded to jump right down both the owners' and sons throats! Well, I jumped back onto my forklift and unloaded the rest of the trailer feeling quite smug. Nothing was ever said to me about that incident or what happened when I was outside. Back in those days we were so poor that if it cost a nickel to shit, I'd had to vomit. My wife would bring me lunch a couple times a week on her bicycle with my infant son strapped to her back so to not spend money on gas, (I worked a second job in the evening, as did she) and we would get to see each other if only for an hour. One day, Mr. Jackoff, (son) reaches over and pinches my wife on the ass and says, "Aint nothin better than watching you ride that bike". This of course gets me looking for blood when I'm informed. The very next time the Willamette truck came for a delivery, the bosses son was directing me and waiting for me to screw up as he always said; I waited until he was beside the "bunk" of CDX plywood I was lifting, turned sharp knocking him off of his feet and let the load down onto his legs just below the knees. He pulled his left leg free, but broke his right ankle in the process. Of course there was a big "Hoopla" over the accident and the owner wanted to fire me, but that truck driver stood right beside me and stated plain and simple, "It was an accident because your son was in the way", and should not have been anywhere near the position he was. I did tell the owner a couple months later when I quit that I considered his son and I, "Even" without explanation. Don't really know if he ever knew what provoked the action, or not, and an employee told me the son never returned. Rob

Is there anyone around the Long Island area that could pick up and store a semi trailer pneumatic landing gear assy. for me for a couple of months? This will fit into the back of a pickup truck and is not very heavy. I'm going to be comming east from Illinois into western NY state to pick up some other parts but if possible to avoid crossing NY complete, I would be grateful. Thanks for any help. Rob

Mainly, the truck was built with a turbocharged engine when it left the factory. The number "3" in "B-613" is the indicator for a turbocharged engine. The "L" means lightweight components, and the "ST" designation is interpreted as a tandem axle semi tractor. A tandem axle straight truck, (or platform) would be a B-613S. Welcome to the club. Rob

Rob I actually loosen the retainer nut till the top of the nut is flush with the ending of the column threads. I then place a large washer inside the steering wheel center, butt my knees against the wheel rim at the bottom while pulling at the top of the rim, and smack the washer with a hammer. The shock to the column usually breaks the wheel loose, and the retainer nut keeps you from eating the steering wheel. Good luck!! Hi Rod, I usually use the method you mention as I'm usually to lazy to walk across the shop to get the correct puller. This way works so well, and consistently, there is hardly a need to obtain one. The wheels are hardly ever "stuck for good". Hope your air steering turned out alright!! Rob

It sounds more like bad connections from the batteries, or the series/parallel switch is giving problems. There are three different types of switches used and parts are no longer available for any of them, but the switch can be purchased complete. I am assuming the truck is still a 12volt system with 24VDC starting. You have to ensure all connections are clean and tight, with good batteries in the system or you'll have a reall fight on your hands to get it to crank. Rob

The correct puller for that type of wheel looks like a large"C" clamp that is modified to an open horizontal "C" section on the bottom to set flush against the underside of the steering wheel. The opening of the horizontal "C" has to have a throat large enough to slide over the diameter of the steering column. The screw is then advanced to bear against the threaded shaft in the center of the wheel to force it from the shaft/splines. Rob

Thank you guys for the help. I've have an 82 R-686 frame on air ride that is single frame, .312 thickness, 3.25" in width, and is 10.5" in height. It is physically longer than the R-795 that I have which has the same dimensions except is double framed with the .250" inside support, and severe rest spreading. The only drawback is the long framed truck had a cab and engine fire which burnt the paint off of it. I don't know if it was hot enough to weaken or not. Although I do not have it, the engine was salvaged and I'm told runs well. There are no sags and it sets level on concrete. Also, the R-795 frame is 33" in rear external width, and the R-686 frame is 34" rear external width. This one inch difference is consistent from front to rear. Most of the crossmembers on the R-795 are structurally weakend from rust. I'm thinking that I would need to cut and narrow by .500" the crossmembers on the donor frame, glove the inner side with .250" material, and then bolt everything back together. A lot of work I know, but most of this labor was planned for anyway. Again, I appreciate the help. Rob

Does anyone know if there is any difference in the rails of an R-700 series, and an R-600 series? I'm not asking about crossmembers or attaching mounts, just the basic rails. The two I'm looking at are both 10 inches tall, and flared wider at the front. Thanks, Rob

I would be guilty on both counts. I don't have a trailer to pull and the engine has not done any work in about 18 years, (seriously). It has sat many seasons. I had the injectors rebuilt and it now runs very well. It is like my two cycle Detroit powered gensets when they are run unloaded, a lot of "wet stacking" takes place. I was wondering if there was originally a packing between the manifold halves and carbon sealed the area or not. Thanks, Rob

Are there seals available on the ENDT-865 engine between the front and rear manifold halves? Mine leak at the joints of the two from "wet stacking" and soaks the frame rails. Thanks, Rob

Sure wish I were closer to help you out. Is it a "York" style compressor, (twin cylinder reciprocating), or an axial Sanden design? If it is a Sanden, the clutch driven plate is retained by a bolt through the center into the compressor crankshaft, and the magnet/sheave assy is retained to the compressor hub with an external snap ring. Also, dont try to run a Sanden with the pulley froze up. If the body spins on the stub it mounts to, the compressor will be junk! The system does not need to be dumped in either compressors' case. Clutches for either unit are about $100.00, (or so), but I don't think you can purchase just parts other than the magnets separate from the whole assy. Unless you have a known very sound system, I would go ahead and pull the refrigerant out and replace the orifice tube or expansion device, receiver/dryer/filter, "O" rings, blow the entire system with clean, dry compressed air and recharge with R-134A after a four hour pulldown to at least 500 micron. Any compressor with age on it puts trash into the system. Being a 92 model year it will still have R-12 refrigerant unless it has been converted. Oh yeah, use about 7 ounces of "ester", or "PAG" oil per pound of refrigerant the system requires for lubrication. These are both compatible with R-134 where mineral oil is not. Unless it has been done previously, acid clean the out surface with a high foaming coil cleaner. I like Alki-Clean readily available from Grainger. A bug sprayer, or spray bottle works well for usage, just wear rubber gloves. If you don't, you'll wish you did! It's not near as hard to do the job right the first time than to redo it later! Rob

I'm wondering if anyone knows what the old Garrison "linkage assist" steering hydraulic flow was in gpm? I've got one and want to use an engine driven pump that is close coupled to my air compressor, instead of the generator mounted pump. Thanks, Rob

Natural 711's were worth their weight across the scales! Now Glenn, my 64 B-61 with a 711 has had the dogshit worked out of it, yet with loose bowels, still runs perfect. It is retrofitted/turbocharged with the Mack supplied kit offered in early 65 as a recall, or TSB, due to cylinder head and valve problems. Rob

Definately a pain in the ass when the control valve got a little internal slop. It only takes about .015 movement either side of/from dead center of the spool valve to route fluid internally for power assist to the steering cylinder. I've rebuilt several in years past, (parts were readily available 25 years ago) but don't know if it is feasible now. Rob