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rewdoxiepup

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Posts posted by rewdoxiepup

  1. Good Morning All,

    Can anyone tell me why on my R-400 there's a dash tag that says " Do not use 1st or 2nd underdrive in the aux. trans. when in 5th in the main trans". It is a quadraplex 18 spd.. Is the jump from 4th direct to 5th direct possible without taking a nap waiting to get into 5th gear ?. Just a question from a Roadranger person, never owned a married Mack type transmission. The only trans. iv'e had that even comes close is a 5X4 in a 1974 Paystar Tri Axle log truck with a 400 Cummins. Thanx E.S.D. :idunno:

  2. Ok guys, Where does a non Mack mechanic find out what Gear ratio's i have in my 1967 R-400 ?

    The fellow i got the truck from said his father was always pissed cause it had a top speed of a blazing 58 mph. even with a 18 spd trans.. I know the older Macks are not speed demons but i do need to make a little time if i do start hauling with this rig. If i can change the ratio's is it mega expensive or are used gears still available?. I do live in a extreamly hilly area of the country so might need to keep the gears i have, I dont know. any help or opions would be great. thanx E.S.D. :idunno:

  3. John Boy, If your oil pressure was good before the oil change and now drops off make sure you have the correct filter. I once had a "bypass and full flow" filter problem in our shop and it turned out that some filters look identical but do not work the same. Just a thought for your problem

    E.S.D. :thumb:

  4. Hey Packer, remember, A Mack with a auto trans. is like a whore without tits. Useless. LMAO!

    Just my opinion,lol Besides At $30.000 starting bid thats a tad high for a dumper thats almost 20 years old.

    Take care, E.S.D. :mack1:

  5. That's why the Dynatard is cheap!

    Superdog swears by his - - - I swear at mine!! Pulled it off and have a Jake to go back on!

    Packer

    LOL, i know what you mean, I once drove a DM600 with a dynatard and was not too impressed with it's performance. Thats why im leaning towards a Jacobs engine brake for my project, but thanks for the input Packer. Erik

  6. I may have one available, I will verify if it is spoken for or not and let you know. Doug

    Thanx Doug, i would be very interested, let me know. Erik :bulldog1:

    Got a Dynatard cheap if you got the cam for it!!

    Packer

    I would rather a jake type but thanks for you reply,Erik :mack1:
  7. Hello, Where do i go to purchase a real Jacobs type engine brake for my 237, Jacobs just informed me they are no longer availible thru them as "New". I really want one to add to my old Mack R-400. Used or New !

    Thanx , E.S.D. :bulldog1:

  8. Hear in the Communist Republic of New York our local diesel stations already have been required to place warning decals on all there diesel pumps advising diesel purchasers that there fuel cannot be used in 2007 and up model year engines. Hear in N.Y. State we already have adopted California emission standards. You can not even buy a Jeep Liberty diesel in this state. As of the first of the year,we will be required to have large truck emission stack testing for soot and smoke. I am a State of N.Y. large truck inspector and there are alot of guys that are gonna fail if they toyed with there injector pumps or emission equipment. The attached icon is something you will never see in N.Y. in the future if the state has it's way. Good luck guys. old smokers are a thing of the past. :SMOKIE-RT::SMOKIE-LFT:

  9. I am sure not a true Mack collector as of yet but i just bought my 1967 R-400 for $400.00 and it started and ran perfect. All my driveline componets are good and cab has zero rust. My problem is same as you, my Mack has the worst case of rusted double frame from the cab back i've ever seen. My outer frame rail is almost compleatly gone and the inner is gone to the point of small holes thru it. Your deal is not worth more than $1000.00 in my opinion. :bulldog1:

    Naturally I did not have my camera with me to provide photos.... I seen it at a truck service garage while wandering around coming home from work.

    Truck is a dumper (not a Gallion bed, but starts with a "G"), has a 10 speed, and a blown E6-350 with a "self ventilating block. The cab and interior are nice for the year, and the grilledensor is not beat up. The main problem is the back half needs cut off and replaced as the frame and all the suspension bushings are shot. I haven't seen a double frame that new split so bad from rust in my years of being around trucks. The rear suspension is also taperleaf, and the springs are misaligned due to bushing wear. The trunion shaft is grinding into the trunion itself and go figure, it has new caps on the rears, but the owner says it drives very well!!

    I thought if this could be bought cheap enough it would work for my detroit project (even though it would be a "halfbreed". What do you guys think is a fair offer he is asking for? I'd be happy with scale prices as I don't need the dump bed and the owner could keep it if that could be worked out.

    At least the brand is right.

    Rob

  10. I just bought a old R-400 tandem and it has a 3-spring rear suspension that i never had any dealings with in my experience a a diesel mechanic, I was wonder if any of you more seasoned mechanics out there know if its a good set up for a small tandem dump body application. I am going with a 13-14 foot body and looking to gross out at 54000 lbs. I think it has 38000 rears, I just got it and havnt looked at all my tags or markings yet. It is a full double frame and has a 237 with a quad box 18 spd. trans. Just looking for a opnion on this suspension set up i got. Thanx :bulldog1:

  11. i just bought a old mack R-400 for $400.00 and yes it started up perfect after sitting 16 years in a field.The bees and wasps were pissed off big time,lol

    Now i need to know how to find used parts and how to convert wedge brakes in the rear axles to s-cams.

    any help would be appriciated. thanx, :mack1::bulldog1:

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