MACKS

2 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

Sweet Ride!!  Fatboy?

Yes sir,2000,still original even the wheels just had them worked on and chromed..

Three inch free travel in the steering wheel isn’t enough to cause the the truck to wander back n forth,could be the tires if everything else checks out..

Update,I sent Barry a message..

Would anybody happen to have the part numbers for the two drag links on a 1996 Mack cl,20000 front axle,or where can I find Barry’s e-Mail,Thanks

Pull the sending unit out,measure the depth of your tank let’s say it’s 30 inches deep,set the arm and the float to  when straight out its 15 inches from the bottom and top of tank_

It’s nice to have an accurate fuel gauge but most drivers don’t trust them anyway,it sucks running out of fuel..

I never had them on any off my trucks,all 58 rears,not sure why tho🤷‍♂️

The valve shuts off the water to the heater core so u don’t sweat to death during the summer,if u have ac it’s mandatory to shut it off..

9 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

modern technology . in the day a spreader box couldn't hold a full load of asphalt either. looking at shape of CT roads, they don't use them here. NO SMOOTH ROADS HERE.

Same here in Ny in fact there still bumpy after they re surface them..lol

5 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

so are we talking about a SIDE  mount or REAR mount  PTO ??  problem with the side mount on 6 speed was to be in a suitable gear for body raise (3 or 4 ) , couldn't take off and move . 1st gear take off was tooo slow for body up. been there done that. try and pull a asphalt spreader = I know pulling the spreader was the dinosaur days (my time slot ). todays world spreaders push the truck. 

And there slowly doing away with pushing the trucks,they dump into a transfer machine that conveys the asphalt to the spreader,nothing touches the spreader and it never has to stop in-between loads,end result super smooth roads..

Have a bowl of total..

Just now, MACKS said:

Replace the weather strip and adjust the striker plate so the door closes tight,that will probably eliminate your rattles…

Also check the door hinges,try moving the door up and down when it’s open..

Replace the weather strip and adjust the striker plate so the door closes tight,that will probably eliminate your rattles…

23 hours ago, Elephant ears said:

There is poly reunion bushings along with rubber and rubber encased steel trunnion bushings did the rubber encased steel bushings on my friends 88 R model tandem dump I helped him do it I thought there is only bronze there is all different material 

The original poster has the greaseable type trunnion,there is only brass bushings for that type,you are talking about non greaseable type..

2 hours ago, hicrop10 said:

Tks,Mark T that’s the way I mounted them,

It’s the only way u can,there’s no way to mount them wrong..

6 hours ago, Ricky Beals said:

JoJo what’s the stop cable for? I have it and one end is tied to the PTO on hydraulic pump and goes to rear of dump bed. 

It’s to disconnect the pto at the height u have it adjusted for so u don’t blow the seals out of the piston..

Have a spotter look to see what’s moving while u slowly drive making sharp turns..🤷‍♂️

5 hours ago, Full Floater said:

Thanks.

Curious as to what is better about the rear mount?  Is it a stronger or more reliable location to mount the PTO, rather then the side?

With the rear mount u don’t have to put the Tran in gear with splitter In neutral ,it works in neutral and also when in gear your body will go up just as fast even if your in first gear,great for running out loads..

Sounds like your good to go,good job,personally I’ve never seen anyone or shop use a torque wrench on those big nuts and I’ve seen many adjust them totally wrong,saw one shop using a big air gun to wack the inner adjusting nuts on and then same on the outer or use a chisel and a big hammer on the outer,It really pays to do stuff yourself ..

On 5/28/2023 at 9:51 AM, Fastduramax said:

 

Best luck with Voyager by far, clean the contact point on the spindle shiny nice with your Dremal and polishing wheel an NO SILICON... Inspect the bottom side of your spindle for wear you will feel a grove where the bearing wore in from being loose or seized, I replaced 3 seals before I discovered this in one of my 44 rears, had a new spindle pressed on to the tune of nearly $2k... I preload the shit out of my bearings now and never another problem !

Why not use a speedy sleeve,that’s what there for and u can use the same seal as without the sleeve.just asking..

Rear mount pto to remote pump is your only option,get it set up right keeping the drive shaft as short as possible,still way better than a side mount..

Could be the piston banging around,they always been known to make a racket..