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b615rich

Bulldog
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Everything posted by b615rich

  1. No connection but this has been on a while. Someone needs to rescue this, hopefully before I give in and go get it. 1968 MACK U MODEL DIESEL http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5081512601.html
  2. The numbers are stamped on the left side of the engine block, right below the head.
  3. Looks awesome. Given a good rebuild and the new parts I would think it will be very reliable. The R looks so timeless, I'd say a great return on the investment compared to new. In some ways nothing beats new, but for a roll off I'd say strong and simple, and with the R easy in and out.
  4. Looks pretty nice alright. Wonder if it was always a FD unit. With low mileage and the nice body/frame might be worth the steering upgrade. Not bad once you get going, but manual steering can be a workout.
  5. Classic colors on the R. Always liked the fenders and nose a different color than the recesses. . Nice! Was there a before pic? Hope to see you in September.
  6. Welcome and good luck. Nice R model!
  7. Glad you are finishing it up for him. I just got that set from Watt's for my B. Real heavy rubber not plastic They look great and hang straight and flat not curled like plastic Great looking truck. Good luck and hope he is doing well for now.
  8. How's the parking brake? With no air and brakes locked on should hold quite well. If not, you need to re-check adjustment, linings, etc. Your discard diameter would say you still have some allowance for wear, so unless the surface is bad you should still be able to achieve adequate performance. What you describe is usually adjustment or brake control valve. PS - sad to hear '87 is now "old". I remember our first new truck an '82 MR. First with real power steering, no twin sticks or split rear, and actually incredible brakes. Almost went through the windshield! Goog luck
  9. Like I said - a lot of good advice. Vinny (aka "umodelnut") may be weighing in on the U. Some people love that offset cab. Most U's seem to have been spec'd heavy. Most dealers and the Mack museum can look up build details. I love R models, but for a classic you can run there are a lot ofB's out there. Harder to work on, and metal vs. a fiberglass, and cab smaller - but they do turn heads. Good luck - let us know what you decide.
  10. Welcome. Based on your comment I'd assume you are thinking of a hobby, not so much a true work truck. Both trucks look nice but that R looks like it could be a find. The 237 hp w/ a 5-spd. was in its day a great set up. Only complaint I had on the 237 in 82' was it idled a little rough - but otherwise you will see it's surprisingly powerful. I am partial to R's, they still have a classic look. The U is an offset cab (just in case, you'll see the door is flush with the left side of the body, the right mirror is on a long bracket off the air cleaner). The U is easy to drive and they always seemed easy to turn and were typically spec'd heavy. I'd take a good look at the R first. Only other advice is they aren't too expensive to buy, or insure as antiques, but they are expensive to fix, store, have towed, etc. That said, a nice dump at a good price holds it's value well. Have fun, and don't be afraid to ask. Guys on the site have tons of knowledge.
  11. Congratulations! Good luck with it, can't beat the look of the B model! If it runs OK, why not leave the motor in there? Pedigree drivetrains are nice in classics (your call though, I've got a Cummins and a 13sp, but I sometimes wish it had the Mack drivetrain). , Or do you need more power..? Pictures soon I hope...
  12. Looks like a great truck. Probably not many that year given the wartime production. Have fun and good luck with it!
  13. I guess we're all thinking about filters. I was going to change the spin on fuel filter on the Cummins NTC 855 (small cam). Looks like only the one. Any experience with priming or any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
  14. Came fast from "starterdaddy" (silly name but highly rated) on e-bay. Packed really well. Got it in, so much lighter than the old one. Engine turns right over. I had wondered about my batteries but the reduction unit does really well, seems batteries are more than adequate. Good to have something new but do appreciate all of the the advice. Onward.
  15. Ordered MT 39, the Remy gear reduction unit. More to follow. Listed to replace my starter on the Remy site. Some good info there.
  16. Welcome. Nice Mack. Posting takes a little practice but folks aren't real fussy here. Just have to play around with it. Good luck.
  17. Did you notice any change in performance, I.e. faster cranking & start or mostly a weight and cost issue (sees about half the weight).
  18. Awesome piece of history. Must be rare, don't remember ever seeing one on the road. Love the turn signals on the guides. Yeah luberfiner a good idea up there, might as well use that two feet of free space. Cool truck.
  19. So I got the starter out and put on a new solenoid. Bench tests fine but guy at auto electric showed me the replacement reduction gear unit. Much lighter and rated about 20-30% more powerful (7kw). Anyone had any luck with these? Worth $300 for faster cranking rpm? A generic unit so not sure they are as repairable as the Remy's. The 41 has been superseded by the 42, I know a good unit but about $450-500 new.. May just put the old one in but wondering if worth an upgrade. ?
  20. So you painted the trim black? To go on silver? Should look nice, - Different. Look forward to the finished pictures.
  21. Be interesting to see the plate or at least get the VIN. Not many built as tractors.
  22. Well, tried the three screws and although the starters not too rusty two of the screws were frozen tight. No room so I pulled the starter. Yes, it's heavy. So, first looks like the spacer between the starter and block is cracked (the ring or sleeve is separated from the three hole flange). A Cummins part I assume. To get the solenoid off I had to remove the nut holding it on the lever. It doesn't seem to pull apart (the plunger is held in the solenoid). Is there further disassembly to get to the contacts? I see a tiny snap ring on the shaft O&G the plunger. Or? Thanks again, first I have to get the OEM spacer so I've got a little time.
  23. Try Gary Mahan Foundation. Has some beautiful trucks - an authority on chain drives. http://mackmacktruck.com/gary-mahan-truck-collection.html
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