mackaholic
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Posts posted by mackaholic
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Contact the Mack museum and request the build sheets. The western built sheets I have seen from Hayward have serial numbers that appear to be in order as the trucks came out of the factory(or as they were ordered?) with RS and FS models appearing as sequential numbers. I could be wrong but I believe there will only be one built sheet with the serial number 31744 and it will show whether it's an FS or RS.
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Are you sure you bought the correct size bulldog? There were several sizes made. Based on the ones I have the holes should be 1 1/4" apart. Sorry, can't help you out with the part number for the correct bracket for an MH. Good looking truck!
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Here's a couple of pictures of the original crossmember in the follow block.
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On 9/26/2023 at 7:34 PM, Macman said:Wow this is amazing thank you for sharing your experience. I was not aware that a new casting could be done. My cab crossmember is broken in half so a new one might be a option…. If I can afford it. If you can share information about obtaining a new casting that would be great.
Its a pretty detailed process. I managed to borrow a very good original cab crossmember from a friend who agreed to take one of the replicas in exchange. The original then went to a pattern maker familiar with aluminum casting. Aluminum shrinks about 5% when it cools after pouring so the original had to be built up in most areas so the final dimensions would be close to original. After that was finished, a follow block was built that the crossmember fit into. It defines where the parting line is(roughly the mid point of the crossmember side to side and vertically when it's in the truck). These two pieces allow the sand mold to be created. The original and the follow block then go to the foundry where the sand mold is made. The follow block and the crossmember are place in a metal frame and casting sand is packed tightly inside the frame around the parts. The metal frame gets flipped over and the follow block gets removed. Another frame goes on top of the first and it gets packed with sand. If everything goes well, the two halves are taken apart and the original crossmember is removed. When the two halves are reassembled the void is where the new piece is formed when the molten aluminum is poured in. If your familiar with sand casting this might make sense. If not it probably doesn't. (KInd of a sad side note, when I was in high school, I was taught this process. I doubt it's taught anywhere anymore) The picture above is of the newly cast crossmember after it's been cleaned up. The final width still needs to be machined and the mounting holes drilled in the correct places. This is what I got back from the foundry.
I'll get a picture of the original and the follow block posted when I get home. Maybe that will help explain it better.
I still have the original crossmember and the follow block. I could be taken to a foundry and another cast fairly easily. If your original isn't too badly broken it might be easier to weld it up. If you're interested in casting one, message me your number and we can talk in person.
Good Luck, Brad
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On 9/19/2023 at 4:07 PM, cub57 said:
Hi all , just curious how many different sizes mack mascots there are ?
Apart from the full size dog , I have seen one that is about 3/4 size , but is there a smaller one ?
I see lots on eBay , but don’t know what size they are
Paul
There's at least three that I'm aware of. Full size used as hood ornament, 3/4 size used on the ash/cigar trays, and a smaller one that could be added to the top of bumper end poles.
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Happy to help. Be sure to post pictures! BTW, they only made 130 of those two axle LT's. Pretty rare truck to find.
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On 8/16/2023 at 10:11 AM, fjdrill said:
Found S/N on RH frame. S/N: LTLT1D1178 last digit was either a U or a D. Pretty sure it's a D. Thought was O but not stamped as heavy on top and bottom corners are rounded different.. Will have to brush or sandpaper it.
Last digit is a D, all the diesel powered LT's were noted that way. It's one of the very last LTLT's built. Only 12 more with higher serial numbers. Looks like it was delivered on 1-6-56, sold out of the Los Angeles, CA branch by Valley Parts and Equipment( a Mack dealer then). It appears to have been sold to Valley Transport Co. I have a copy of the Chassis register from the museum which is where this info came from. It's all hand printed so some of it is hard to read.
Congratulations!
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I am guessing both the trunnion mounts and crossmember are aluminum? I took my trunnion mounts to an old school welding shop and had them welded up. They were not impressed with the quality(or lack of) in Mack's castings. I'm hoping they will hold up for truck show type use but I wouldn't want to use them for hauling any weight.
As for the cab crossmember, If it's not too badly broken it can also be welded. About 5 years ago I had a couple of new aluminum crossmembers cast. All spoken for now but if you needed one I can check into what it would cost in todays dollars. Was about $1100/copy the last time. I didn't have an aluminum crossmember for my LTL so repair wasn't an option.
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The LT's I've seen have had the serial number stamped in the RH (passenger side in the USA) frame rail either above the front axle or near the rear spring hanger for the rear suspension. I've seen them both places. Also seem trucks that didn't have one at all.
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1 hour ago, mattb73lt said:The sheet metal is all together. I need to make a few adjustments and fill a few bolt holes, but it's looking good. Very happy it’s back together!
that is a gorgeous Mack!! Great job!
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On 2/22/2023 at 5:21 PM, mrsmackpaul said:Fill it up with the MIG until you have enough sticking out the manifold to weld a nut
Then just unwind the stud and replace
It is easier than you might think to do this
I was dubious to say the least when I heard about this way but it really does work quite well
If it keeps on breaking off, get a set of jumper leads and a couple of batteries series, maybe go three batteries
Clamp one end to the head and the other to the nut you have welded on and put some decent currnt thru it
This also helps to loosen things
I think been a cast iron that this last step wont be needed
Even if the stud is broken off a fare way down, just slowly build it up with the MIG
Paul
I've used the mig welder technique many times on Ford FE engines. Had very good luck getting the stud out without drilling. Takes 5-6 tries sometimes. Keep building it up until you can get a pair of vice grips on it then start gently putting pressure back and forth.
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I've got a B61 front axle the stud pilot budd hubs and drums. No backing plates. They are in CA though. Long way from PA.
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19 hours ago, Brian L Blaylock said:
Hey Mackaholic that’s a real good looking truck with that color scheme I’m wondering if that truck didn’t belong to MidEast truck and tractor out of East Canton Ohio
Thanks! This one was repainted to match several trucks we've had over the years. Started as a lowbed truck for OC Jones, a contractor here in California. It was green from the factory.
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21 hours ago, mowerman said:
For what it’s worth I like the bottom better but Of course if your not happy that doesn’t help Bob
I like the bottom one better as well. Top one is what's on there currently.
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There is a difference in the fender height on early RL/RS700 western hoods vs late. Top picture shows the later hood. There's about 6" between the white stripe and the top of the fender. Bottom picture shows the early hood where the white stripe is right above the fender. Same truck before after the hood was damaged and replaced. Wish I had known then, I would have fixed the early high fendered hood!
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Not sure about the DE but looking through the complete LT chassis register Mack seemed to do whatever they wanted with chassis numbers. There are sections of anywhere from 1 to 20 chassis numbers that didn't get used many times over for the LT's. Not sure how they assigned them but it wasn't as they came off the line. Some of them are not even in chronological order. Very likely that the highest chassis number for the DE is well above 3176. The only thing Mack seemed to be consistently good at was inconsistency.
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1 hour ago, 67RModel said:
Where the heck is this? California? Look at all those class 8 gems sitting there waiting for new homes....
Gary Berrington's place in Nevada.
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On 6/8/2022 at 7:59 PM, mowerman said:
Excellent have a ball with it…engine stuck doesn’t necessarily mean you can’t free it with lots of mystery oil snd tapping on the pistons I’ve done it before good luck Bob
We're working on that! Pan needs to come off as there are some rust holes in the bottom due to condensation(I hope). Oil looks good it it and not overfull. Fingers crossed.
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On 6/8/2022 at 2:26 PM, mattb73lt said:
Really cool early find!! Are you doing a full restoration or just a preservation?
At this point just a preservation. It is really complete so if we can get it running it should be drivable for parades, shows, etc. It is really beat up. A full restoration would be a lot of work!
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Brought another old Mack home recently. 1931 BC, one of 10 consecutive trucks sold to California Dept of Transportation. Very complete but the engine is stuck. It is an original BC engine. Anyone have any info one those? CID? are they the samme as any of the other early Mack engines? Seems they changed engines with every truck back in the thirties.
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On 6/24/2021 at 6:49 PM, Mike Harbison said:
Evidently this truck fell victim to CARB. I saw an ad a few years ago for the cab and hood for sale,I was able to get the hood,but wasn't able to find a ride for the cab,too.
I looked at this truck before it was cut up. Had a v-8 detroit in it. Years later I saw the hood in Reno on it's way to you and ended up buying the cab from the same guy. Still have it, waiting to go on a 69RL700.
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16 hours ago, mackdaddy said:
I bought one and the guys love it! We have our share of Isuzu's and the Paccar COE and this hands down is a better truck and it cost less.
Can I borrow that for harvest?
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Not sure if they are identical but I've replaced the bearings on an LTL that look very similar. No inner race on those needle bearings so you'll have to replace or figure out some way to repair the grooves in the shaft. Just knock the outer shell out with a punch from the opposite side, clean up the bore and press the new ones in.
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And what's with the offset opening in the grill? Never seen that before.
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1980 cab vin tag missing
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
If you're really concerned there are some reproduction door tags available on ebay. See below. Not sure if this is the correct one for 1980. There are others as well. Stamp the correct numbers matching the frame and away you go. State troopers should know to look at the stamped frame number, not a tag that can be unscrewed on a door or seat riser. But there are some.....