mackaholic

Welcome, It's good to hear from another West Coaster. Doesn't seem to be too many of us out here. What shape is your LF in? Brad

I'm trying to get my hands on a truck here in Northern CA and I've got some questions about who built it. It started as a 4 cylinder, chain drive, light weigth AC. Sometime after that it was converted to it's current state using an early B model hood, cowl band and radiator. The frame is now a rivited triple frame using the AC suspension. The engine is a Mack 6 cylinder but the rest of the drive train is AC. The cab is an AC with the cowl being modified to fit the B hood. I've seen pictures of another truck converted just like this one and heard that they were done by a company in the Los Angeles area. Anyone heard of this or have any info on these trucks. I can't understand why anyone would go to this much trouble when they could have just bought an F model?

I've had several people suggest that but I've seen two of these trucks with the same fender/hood/cab configuration so I believe its a separate model but which one?

Hi All, Been a while since I've posted so I hope this works. Any one know what model Mack this is? There is one like this here in Northern CA that I have seen pictures of but haven't been able to see in person. I believe it's an FH or FJ. The one I am trying to get has a triple frame and the same body as this. I've seen lots of C cab Macks but not with the raised steel section below the windshield. It doesn't show real well here but there is a 2-3 inch section of the cowl that is above the hood line if the hood were sitting flat. Any thoughts? Brad

Out here in Northern CA there are several LT's that are used regularly. One pulls a lowbed hauling dozers and excavators. The other pulls an end dump. It's great to see them coming up the road at you. The lowbed tractor still has a supercharged cummins. Ever better than seeing it is hearing it coming!

Sounds like solenoid problems. They do two things. First the solenoid pulls the starter drive into the ring gear and then makes the conection to spin the starter motor. Inside the solenoid is a large copper disk that contacts the positive battery cable terminal (on neg. ground trucks) and the terminal that goes to the starter. If that disk gets corroded or arced from starting with low voltage it may not be making good enough contact to spin the starter motor. If you can get the solenoid apart you can clean the terminals and disk. Also put a bit of lubrication or the starter shaft where the drive slides back and forth. Should solve the problem.

I've had pretty good luck with the epoxy as well. Take a dremel tool and clean out the cracks and make the crack wider below the surface of the crack(the epoxy will have less chance of cracking and falling out). After it hardens just sand it down and repaint the wheel. If you use a good brand of hardened paint it will last for years. You'll have to put in a lot of hours behind the wheel to wear it off. Brad

You've heard correct. My dad's got an F715 with the 866 and dynatard. It makes noise and smoke and will stop the truck empty on flat ground. Other that that it's not worth much.

Well, it all depends on what you want out of the truck when you're done. I've worked on trucks that guys have put $50,000 into that they never drive and then there are people who buy a truck like you're looking at, get it running and drive the heck out of it while they're fixing it up . As a guideline you can probably buy one all fixed up for half of what you'd put in it. Personally I prefer the later. If you like the truck, buy it and get it running as soon as possible. It's a lot more fun to work on something you can drive and enjoy. You can also put money in it as you have it. That's what I'm doing with my LJSWX. I've seen a lot of people who have torn vehicles completely apart with the intention of fixing them up and then they loose interest before they finish it. A fire truck is even worse because of all the bodywork involved. This one looks pretty good from the pictures. Chrome is easy to redo, rusted out bodies and blown engines are much more costly and time consuming. Bottom line, If you really like the truck and it's not totally rusted or parted out, go for it and enjoy it at you're own pace.

Fifthwheel had the brake parts that I needed for my LJSWX, shipped them to me and traded for some parts I had as well. The right parts in good shape, easy to deal with. Thanks for the help keeping my old LJ on the road. Brad

If Watts Mack can't find them for you they probably don't exist. I needed a wear ring for an 866 v-8. My local dealer claimed they were no longer available. Not at Watt's. The parts man I talked to went straight to Mack and found one. He did say not to mess it up though as that may be the last one. Oh, by the way, don't remove the wear ring from the crank(if it has one), the new style rear main goes right over it to repair any damage. I think they only used the wear ring stlye in 73' or 74'. Good Luck!

If you don't find anything wrong with the switch or fuses, check the dimmer switch. I have seen several of them give out and you loose the lights. Good luck.

I've had several old speedos apart for restoration. The tough part is getting the bezel off. They are usually crimped on to the housing. To get them off you have to take a small screwdriver or similar tool and from the back side where the bezel meets the housing, gently roll the crimp back enough to get the bezel off but not so much that you bend the front side. Once you get the bezel off the needle is a press fit on the shaft. If its not frozen it should come off by gently turning the needle counterclockwise. It should come off the shaft without too much trouble. Then the face comes off with the two screws you can see from the front. There are people who specialize in rescreening the face of the gauge. Look in Hemmings or other such publications. I have also had them made at a local sign shop but the detail wasn't as fine as the screened method. Just depends on how much you want to spend and how good you want it to look when finished. Hope this helps, Brad

Beautiful truck, now if they would just finish it and paint the steering wheel some other color.

Thanks, I've heard about Dan's collection but haven't met him yet. Maybe this year at the Brooks truck show.

Out here on the West Coast the engine of choice( at least in the Mack LT's) seems to be the Cummins 275 supercharged engine. Just wondering if anyone has had any expirience with them? I've heard they had a very different sound to them. I've got an LT needing an engine and was wondering how hard it would be to come up with one. Thanks, Brad

The company I work for in CA has a truck that was rated at 28,500 GVW. I took it to a company that manufactured truck beds and for $300.00 they looked at the truck and retyped a new door sticker that said 26,000#. Being what the state of CA calls an end manufacturer they can certify the truck's GVW as they get cab and chassis' and install the bodies. I don't know how far they can lower the GVW(ie 45,000 to 26,000) but it is possible and legal, just as long as' you don't get caught haling something over the limit.

Out here on the west coast we have the written, skills and what they call walk around test. For the walk around you have to list all of the components of the truck you would check during your "pre-trip inspection". the whole test can take up to 5 hours depending on the examiner you get and how bad a mood they are in that day. If you go this route you have to know the truck pretty well to pass. Judging by some of the yo-yo's we have on the road out here in trucks, someone's giving CDL's out of gum ball machines. I used to do the testing program for the local fire dept for firefighters to get their CDL's. It's the same program the larger trucking co's use. They can make it real easy to get a license if they want to.

David, I went out and looked at the engine I pulled the water pump off of. The oil pressure line comes off of the right side of the engine just to the right of where the governor bolts on. On my engine there are two 1/8" plugs there, I believe either is oil pressure. Hope this helps, Brad P.S. How did the water pump work out?

Thanks, Glad I could help keep another old Mack on the road. Brad

Barry, There is a company called Newport Engineering that makes all kinds of wiper conversions for old cars and pick-ups. I have used their products on a couple of projects and they fit and work well. They would probably do the prototype if you supplied a cab and ordered a sufficient number of the kits up front. Their contact info is available at www.newportwipers.com. With the number of B models out there it shouldn't be a problem getting them interested. Brad PS. Since I'm new to this what does LOL that I see in some of the posts stand for? Out here in the fire service in CA its "little old ladie".

The truck looks alot better now after several hours of pressure washing! The truck has a 212" WB but I'm missing about 4' of frame behind the axles. I found the original owners wife in Idaho and found out it was originally a logging truck so if I can find a 50's vintage long logger setup it will go back to a logger. Besides with the 44,000 lb rears in it the ride is less than smooth. It has been to a show already but on the lowbed behind the superliner. Can't beat that airride suspension.

For those of you looking for the bulldog, base and grab bars for a CF there is one on Ebay, item #6584903988. I think it runs another day or so, you better hurry.

This truck was several miles off the paved road on a horse ranch. I don't think you could even have seen it from the air unless you were looking. It pays to have friends who keep their eyes and ears open.