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BucketTrucker688

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Posts posted by BucketTrucker688

  1. On 4/6/2017 at 1:03 AM, thomastractorsvc said:

    I a messing with one today looks like I am going to remove the intake on the back so I can get at it.  I worked for several hours trying to get it loose with no luck.  Mine was rounded off also so I took a old wrench and tried welding it to the nut.  On so tight it ripped some of the metal off the nut.  I figured that the heat would lossen it but nothin.  Got to go buy a 12 pt 10mm thin wall to get the intake bolts off.

    I'm at the same point. The fitting rounded off and there's such minimal room to work I think I'm to the point of needing to take the intake manifold off the back. Im worried to cut the hose like some suggested and risk metal filings fall into the oil galley while trying to remove the damaged firing, it does look like a 2 piece fitting but I'm still going to have a issue getting the 2nd piece off that threads into the filter housing. 

  2. I have a 97 tri axle dump, the driver says he can feel a shake in the front end while braking only. He claims after I put a new set of 315 firestone steer tires on he started noticing it and seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? I wouldn't the front drums would ever get hot enough to warp but maybe I'm wrong. 

  3. I have a 97 tri axle dump, the driver says he can feel a shake in the front end while braking only. He claims after I put a new set of 315 firestone steer tires on he started noticing it and seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? I wouldn't the front drums would ever get hot enough to warp but maybe I'm wrong. 

  4. By eye the bearing wear seems to be ok, it's just where the seal rides seems to be pitted. I cleaned it up the best I could with some Emory paper and brake cleaner then a thin coat of some permatex gear lube silicone. And it still appears to be leaking, the hub looks fine and spindle look fine crack wise I was just thinking there's got to be a wear sleeve out there somewhere that should slide over the pitted part and leave me with a fresh new surface to seal to.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  5. I have 1000 miles and about 2 months time on a reman caterpillar oil cooler and only one end of the rubber was deteriorated and blown completely out. What would cause this? Would you consider this defective? I never had any level increase in the radiator as if I was gaining fuel dilution. There was never any smell of fuel in the coolant. The system was flushed very thoroughly many times with a fleetguard flush detergent after the old cooler went bad then even in that time frame I had another hose that I missed changing ( the little 4" rubber hose to feed the air compressor) blow out and I had to re fill with about 7 gallons of fresh coolant there. So now Im sitting here wondering why in the hell did this new cooler fail. I was running rotella elc coolant and AMSOIL full synthetic 15w-40 diesel marine engine oil.

     

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

     

     

  6. 10 hours ago, Mack Technician said:
    Use that guide I gave you on the last thread to find your thickness and buy the proper thickness shim stock online. Cut out your own pickle fork that slides into the Jake clearance. If you can’t imagine what it looks like go to the Mack dealership with a chunk of cardboard and cut a dummy fork to duplicate or sketch it.

    I don't think I know which guide your referring to ... sorry

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