BucketTrucker688

That would be much appreciated! I guess this scenario is becoming more common as these engines age. Crazy why they would discontinue them though. If you find any let me know Thanks!

I'm in need of a Mack 73GC27D or PAI ELA-3543 lash adjusters I'd like to do all 6 but am being told mack and Pai both discontinued them. Now what do I do?

On my 91 the other day I experienced what I thought was a stuck on engine brake...pulled the valve covers and noticed 4 bent exhaust valve push rods. Also noticed the engine brake solenoids not activating at the same time, the rear solenoid activated way later than the front at a idle. Oil pressure seems to be fine 30+/- psi @ idle. I ran the truck all day and it was fine then at the end of the day in 8th gear (8ll trans) it started sounding like a bad miss or like it needed fuel filters. I didn't really notice it again until I needed to back up loaded up a hill then it got worse from there. I am the only driver of this truck and do not over rev what so ever. I also replaced the cam approximately 150k ago about 9 years ago when I got this truck. I plan on changing the push rods and engine brake solenoids and re adjust all the valves but I'm worried that's not the only thing I need to do.

It works fine below about 1500 then above that it gets starts cutting out as the rpms get higher. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

I posted about this topic before but could not find the thread. I have a mechanical E7 350 in a 1991 rd688s. At around 1600 rpm my engine brakes start going intermittent. It's not just one head it's both. I was told to check the relay but low and behold I cannot find any engine brake relay it's blank on my fuse panel. Where the other wires go into the heads to the solenoids there is some oil seapage nothing major but this engine brake cutting out when I need it most is getting ageravating. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm getting annoyed trying to chase this down. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

The Engine Brake on my 1991 E7 is cutting in and out at higher rpm's with a load on. Is this a sign of something? All the electrical connections look ok on the out side there seems to be a little oil seaping from the plug where the wires go into the head not bad but more than I'd care to see. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

If $800 is a good deal or not idk...its probably $1300 or more from mack

Would a Borg Warner S400G073 turbo be too much for a E7-350 to handle? The motor is not turned up at all and has all it's oem parts. There is one for sale locally to me brand new but don't know if it will do me any good. I'm starting to see some oil residue on my v-clamp on my turbo outlet so thinking it may be time. Currently it has a S3a038 turbo on it now. Truck runs good but still seems like it could do better.

Would a relay Valve be the culprit for having nothing happen for the top 1/4 of my brake pedal? I have read a sticky relay Valve will show the symptom of not being able to feather into the brakes but I have 3 relay valves and don't know how to diagnose which it may be. The truck is a 91 rd688s Tri axle dump. I was going to change the foot Valve until I read it may be a relay Valve which looks easier to change than a foot Valve. This makes for a white knuckle ride in the rain when all the brakes want to do is lock up on you and you slide to a stop every traffic light.

I have a clunk almost as if a torque arm was bad on my 1991 rd688s with 44k Camelback. Spring shop says suspention looks good possibly in the driveline. It's a identical feel to a bad torque arm...I changed 1 torque arm that had play in it but the thud I get from the back of the truck when I dump the clutch at say a stop light and when I brake hard at low speed is still there...any ideas on a diagnosis? I put a reman forward rear in about 50,000 and run same tread depth tires on all 8 drives all the time as to not tear up rears. I am the only driver the truck has seen since I bought it in 2009.

The low switch is no where to be found in the engine compartment..not even wires anywhere that could possibly be to the low switch...could it be that it opperated with out one? I need to trace back the wire that i have plugged into the compressor and see where the heck it goes Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Did you notice where the low pressure cut out switch was when you were working on yours...im hearing its suppose it be on the firewall or on the reciever drier and its in neither of those locations. There is no power going to the wire that goes to the compressor and dont know if that wire comes from the low pressure switch or not. ( havnt done a full investigation into that yet ). But couldnt imaging the system doesnt have one. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

I am getting ready to do a ac system overhaul. I have had this 91 rd688s for 6 years and dont remember if the ac ever worked or not but 6 years of no ac has been enough. A line came off the compressor and the system became open so i am going to start by changing the compressor reciever drier and all hoses and see it it holds pressure...but before i tear into all of that when i switch on the max ac from the control panel and fan on high ( i hear a significant air leak but.. ) the air flow that comes out of the vents is minimal to nothing. What should i check before i start tearing everything apart...this hvac control is relativly new and installed by mack a few years ago.

I recently swapped hubs and went to a wider tire now I have about 2.5" of tire outside of the edges of my fenders...probably not pa legal. I'd like to utilize the fasteners and holes this hood currently has for oem flares or I will have to use a side mount universal flare such as pacer flexy flares. Does anyone know a Mack part number or anywhere other than Mack that may carry these oem style flares?

I have been buying mainly universal things to spruce my 1991 rd up. Chrome vinyl is a cheap way to chrome harder to come by parts. But things like switching lights to led and using chrome bezels where ever you can make a good appearance. New Mudflaps and weights behind the front axle and in front of the front drive axle hanging off the box would look good to...I also use nut covers where ever I can too. I so found on the interior that Peterbilt gauge covers with a dab of clear silicone and toggle extensions and I think it was Peterbilt swich id plate bezels fit too. And a can of paint on the dash and cab plastics dresses thing up nice for cheap too. And if your not in the paver all the time i think it looks good to add center flaps ( or one big 48" wide piece of old cleaned up quarry conveyor belt like I did before I started Paving alot ) but you have to fabricate up a mount then.

While we are talking cables, does any one know what the proper black plastic adapter that comes with a new cable is to use, I believe the adapter for the speedometer is OK in my truck but I have a feeling my tach cable has the wrong one as my hours on the hour meter never add up...seems like its well behind.

Speedometer works & the odometer flat out quit working. The pin for the speedometer jumps about 5mph of where its suppose to be. Can this be fixed or do ii need to start at 0mi again with a new one?

Im just tired of gauge lights going out, sockets coming out of the backs of the gauges and I think they would give a more precise reading at a glance. And the blue led would go good with my truck

That's is probably close to the same weight...I guess I need to take it down and see if there's any good way to fasten the cb itself to the inner cab ceiling...just was curious if anyone has ever done this before.

Any body know what teltek gauges will work for the older mechanical non computerized trucks? Specifically h2o temp, voltage, oil psi, fuel level, air psi ( primary and secondary systems ) ,and pyrometer?

I have switched my truck over to hub pilot and have hubs and drums available. One of the drive hubs are nearly new only 500 mi on it, cost me $600 . The 4 brake drums only have about 10,000 mi on them. There are 3 additional drive hubs but 1 of them is questionable. The 2 steer hubs are in good condition also has brake drums attached with plenty of life left one has all new wheel studs. Also have bearings available in decent condition and some 24.5" x 8.25" wheels . possible trade for a good condition late r model hood. Contact me via phone or text 570-656-3737 if interested. Make me a offer.

Has any one ever mounted their cb inbthe passenger side of the plastic head liner? If so do you have any pictures and info on how it was done..I don't like the look of the cb on the dash but am worried the plastic is too flimsey for a heavy radio to sit in with these nice pa roads knocking the hell out of everything.

Front steer axle...I installed them with a flat face accuride 9" wheel 315/80/22.5 tire and I'm about 2.5" on either side past the hood.... going to have to get fender flares or a ddifferent style wheel

Anyone know what a good part number is for hub pilot hubs for a 20k steer axle? I have a set of hf805k gunite hubs but they look way to wide for my spindles. Im worried when I mount the wheels they will be wide past the edges of the fenders.

I know on the r models iv seen they needed to go to a 315 tire on a 9" flat faced Alcoa rim to avoid rubbing hoses and brake chambers.