BucketTrucker688

yeah it seems like an air flow issue. i have owned the truck and worked it nearly daily since 09 and have never had this portion of the truck apart yet. is it adviseable to try and spray coil cleaner on the coils and rince it with a pump sprayer? thats what i ended up doing with my western star but that set up i could get to both sides of the heater core.

My 91 rd688s windshield fogs up severely in snow plowing conditions. I feel that the heater core and ac evaporator should probably be cleaned, is this something possible to do without removing either of them from the dash? I feel like I'm not getting enough airflow to the windshield to keep it thawed. Any tips? Thank you

Copy, thank you!

Can anyone tell me what pressure the radiator cap psi needs to be? It's a 1991 E7 350. Thanks

I'm at the same point. The fitting rounded off and there's such minimal room to work I think I'm to the point of needing to take the intake manifold off the back. Im worried to cut the hose like some suggested and risk metal filings fall into the oil galley while trying to remove the damaged firing, it does look like a 2 piece fitting but I'm still going to have a issue getting the 2nd piece off that threads into the filter housing.

Shook it down, found the wheel bearing was loose on the driver's side, we will see if that fixes it.

I have a 97 tri axle dump, the driver says he can feel a shake in the front end while braking only. He claims after I put a new set of 315 firestone steer tires on he started noticing it and seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? I wouldn't the front drums would ever get hot enough to warp but maybe I'm wrong.

I have a 97 tri axle dump, the driver says he can feel a shake in the front end while braking only. He claims after I put a new set of 315 firestone steer tires on he started noticing it and seems to be getting worse. Any ideas? I wouldn't the front drums would ever get hot enough to warp but maybe I'm wrong.

Welp, found a crack. Guess I better call axle surgeons. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I just took it apart again and it looks like the seal is dry from the outside and the underside of the axle tube (to the inside of the spindle) is leaking directly under the brake shoes. Is there a fix to this or does the whole axle housing need to be replaced? It doesn't appear to be cracked but it's very wet all on the bottom of the tube. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

One of the parts stores around here are telling me to use a scottseal xl +. No special tools needed to install and will seal better than a stemco grit guard. Any input? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Just cleaned the vent, I actually changed the vents over to a Spicer vent with the preformed rubber tube. I donth think there's a spacer anywhere. Unless your talking about the bearing race? Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

By eye the bearing wear seems to be ok, it's just where the seal rides seems to be pitted. I cleaned it up the best I could with some Emory paper and brake cleaner then a thin coat of some permatex gear lube silicone. And it still appears to be leaking, the hub looks fine and spindle look fine crack wise I was just thinking there's got to be a wear sleeve out there somewhere that should slide over the pitted part and leave me with a fresh new surface to seal to. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

No I only had skf scotseals. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I have a hub on my RD with 44k drive axles that will not seal. The spindle where the hub seal rides is semi pitted and I think is a major factor, does anyone make a wear sleeve and corresponding hub seal to renew the surface? Part numbers would be greatly appreciated if there is such a part for this. Allentown mack was no help to me, could not answer the question. Thank you