Vladislav

Yes, there's a style of steering boxes with circulating balls. That's good design regarding the function. As I understood it came on the big truck scene a bit later, after those simple warm and sector boxes. The steering box is of screw, nut and sector style. You spin a screw by steering shaft which drives or undrives in/out of a nut. The nut is also a rack having teeth on one outer side. The teeth are mashed to a teethed sector which turns Pitman arm shaft. The balls are put in the threads between the screw and the nut. So the threads operate as a ball bearing. If the box is an integrated power steering the nut also takes function of a piston having seal rings over its body and moving in a cylindrical cavit bored in the housing.

That style usually has a set screw but you can adjust mesh between teeth of the nut and sector only. And if you ran all that adjustment to its limit and still have play in the box that means the balls or their racing surfaces are worn and a fix is replacement of the parts or complete steering box.

Here's a bit of what to look at. The unit is SG-16 made by Mack in 1945. Earlier than yours but from your description I guess very similar. Steering shaft put into a long tube you see in the cab which is attached to the top of the housing under the hood. No U-joints. I indeed had to remove the steering wheel when dismantled the unit off the chassis and that was a trouble with splines stuck to the shaft. Having no luck with simple movements I tried attaching a puller but ended up with a chiesel hitting from below the steering wheel and cracking its lower skird. Found no other way. But looks like you may try removing all the column off the housing together with the steering wheel. My style had the column driven into the housing with threads. Bend off the lip of the lock washer and turn the column (the tube) counterclockwise.

The gear itself is a simple warm and sector. My model had the Pitman arm shaft spinning in two needle bearings not cooper bushings. Originally the gear showed excessive play either so I went through it and finding play of the shaft and seeing no wear on its journals I started a hunt on the bearings. Those were marked Torrington-something and after stiring a pot at my local parts supplier I in a month and a half purchased... one bearing. And after telling them "Yes, that's true, I asked for two" and two more months to wait (and paying double shipping cost) I grabbed the 2nd one. To my big frustration after reinstalling both bearings the play rest as it was with the old ones. So it looked like Mack minded that way from the factory (and I didn't liked it). 

The warm and sector teeth didn't have any notable wear either so my further look put on the bronze bushing the sector seats against and limits its end play. I made additional shim and if assembled with it the shaft had no radial play and all the gear lost 95% of its play too. I was pleased but not cheered since if the shaft had no tight vertical support in the bearings it would lean (dance) under steering force trying to brake the cover or so. And the thickness of the gasket was a mistery to me too since it influences the required bushing thickness. 

That time I ended up with the original bushing and no gasket (put sealer) and some notable steering wheel play of a couple of inches I would like to minimize for perfection. But I never drove multiple old trucks down the road so kept it about the way Mack made it. Much later a large factory repair manual happened to appear in my hands and Mack engeneers were offering to set the shaft end play by thickness of the gasket (!). That was written there with a comment of no shims of other than standard thickness were avalible.

The truck is still in the shed having no engine and cab on so no comments on driving experience from my side. Hope the pics will help you.  

P.S. As I remember the warm could be removed from the steering shaft in a case you find it bad and no need to remove the steering wheel for that. Also look up for the electrical horn wire as it goes through the steering shaft getting out of the gear at its bottom end.

That guy had a nick name of Bigdogtrucker on here and used to be a long time active member in the past. I remeber having exchanged a few PM's with him a while back and he said he was active on FB in some antique Mack group (or so). So that may be one more way to try contacting him.

BTW one nice looking 2nd gen Superliner sells on Craigslist for 16K somewhere at the East coast and I've seen the ad for a few months already. But that's E6 and from the pics it looked like the frame had a trouble in the bogie area.

12 hours ago, 67RModel said:

They are asking $18,000 US Dollars and if it does not sell by 1/15 they are sending it to an auction. 

From The Listing:

This machine is being sold by norsemenauction.com. It is available for $18,000 USD. If it doesn't sell, it will roll into auction on January 15. The last available bidding day will be January 31. Additional photos and videos available at norsemenauction.com Chains and tools NOT included - Fantastic Condition - Clean Interior - 319,084 Miles - Mack E9 Engine - 440 HP - Turbo - Engine Brake - Differential Lock -12 Speed Manual Mack Transmission - 8x2 - Rubber Block Suspension - Drum Brakes - A/C - Power Steering - Headache Rack - Wet Kit - Mud Flaps - Heated Mirrors

Overall sounds quite reasonable. If the condition is good the truck has good chances for a new home having E9.

My personal taste is more to the 2nd generation Superliner and having the amount of projects I already have looking for one more truck is more just drool. But who knows?

Probably some not cheap beast with V8 (I can't see the price and don't need that) but looks really fresh. Thanks for posting.

Wonder how those public highways are used for landing the plane. It must be very dangerouse if the stretch isn't closed at the both ends. But overall the idea is great for sure.

MH633 is for Cummins for sure. And no comment on the rest from my side.

On 12/31/2023 at 2:49 AM, mrsmackpaul said:

I dont think that can happen, the cowls are different shaped, the Flinstone look becomes quite appealing the longer your with them

Fiberglass is just same same after awhile 

 

Paul 

Paul, as you can see on the cab pics posted later the cowl is similar and swapping soft nose wouldn't be a trouble. But personally I mind keeping the Flintstone look better in this particular cace. My original post had another meaning being addressed to Bob's comment of no need to do any jobs to the truck.

On 12/30/2023 at 10:49 PM, Brocky said:

Vlad, There are not many"Flintstone's" up here in the States.. I vote to keep it as an original hardnose!!!

Brocky, you didn't note my post was a quote to Bob Moverman's post.

Sure steel nose is much rarer in your neck of the woods and being also a single axle the truck represens unusual configuration. So worth to keep it that way on my mind.

Bearings are going to be all standard bearings excepting a double race one at the rear end of the compound countershaft. Cones are standard Timken or others but that double race cup is an original part which was even possibly made by Mack in house. I had luck locating a NOS one for my Duplex TRD-37 and my tranny thogh being rusty inside looked much more promising (and contained oil not clear water) as the one on the pics.

Ok, now I recall I also had "adventure" locating a small roller bearing installed in the rear end of the pinion shaft. Main box main shaft spins in it with its front end. I could find the part# and further used interweb search and found the part in Australia and for nearly hunderd and a half local bucks. Plus shipping. Spent a couple evenings on the net and found much cheaper alternative locally but the bearing race needed a bit of machining. If you hit that trouble PM me and I will describe the details.

15 hours ago, mowerman said:

Doesn’t even look like it needs anything. Thanks for that…. Bob

Why not to swap to fiberglass hood and paint it? 

That's the job

My R688 1988 cab had nutserts all over the roof for the marker lights, horns and Lund visor. All turned out into a big PITA when I started cleaning the roof for body work. I don't recall maybe 3 or 4 bolts and screws drove off by normal way but the most required a ton of work even with the headliner removed. We could drive off a half catching the body of a nutsert with heavy pliers and turning the screw from the top but nearly the half of spots we made by drilling off. Some nutserts are close to the windscreen and when you try access them from under the roof they're too far behind the front reinforcement channel of the roof structure. The most difficult were Lund visor screws which attaches to the sides of the windscreen near the door frame. The screws were stainless and they sure not being lubricated from the factory locked dead tight into the normal steel nutserts. I could drill off 3 of four and cut new threads by tap but the 4th nutsert spinned needing the swap but making its hole larger than it was originally. 

Worth to point out I applied all possible antiseize, hit and heat and did the job in a few days or even a week having no rush. And on the removed cab I could stand near by, not on a truck.

Vlad

Nice looking truck and interesting configuration. Would be cool to see in progress pics.

2 hours ago, 70mackMB said:

Found it on Google maps, 1930 US-220/Main St. Ellerbe NC.    .....Hippy

https://www.google.com/maps/@35.0626194,-79.7633115,3a,15y,82.74h,87.89t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sLUE6siqKQQBgiUZJnJQ_Eg!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?entry=ttu

Good job!

To me it doesn't look to fire right up with a set of fresh batteries. More looks like parked at that spot for a while. But probably was kept inside for many years in the past.

Would be interesting to know how the frame rails are perfect.

My guess (again a guess) END-673 had dry liners of tighter fit than Maxidynes so you need a strong puller to remove them. Not like E6/EM6 OEM or PAI you have sometimes them off the block just turning the crank a little bit. And put back in new ones by hand (after keeping in a fridge overnight). END's didn't have separate firerings, just integrated in the gasket ones, like in car. That same (as it looks now) for head studs. They were thinner in pre-Maxidyne engines. 

Again, I have no experience with END-673 but I rebuilt my ED-519 Lanova which also had similar overall design to all END/E -series. Actually the very predicessor to them all. The crank and rods were much lighter than in E6 along with lesser OD journals etc. Dry liners I used a 20 ton press to get off the block, no firerings. If the memory serves good my ED-519 had even lesser journals than 673 but I didn't have need to check that out.

There was a big thread on here about Maxidyne engines a couple or so years back. Unfortunately I don't remember its title. Glenn Ackers put the most of points in it. I asked question on how those new engines being basically the old 673 could provide much higher torque and even at low revs. His answer was the basic design was seriousely reworked with more massive crank/rods, reinforcement plates over main bearing bolts and other mods. Glenn looked knowing that matter like a palm of his hand. But too unfortunately he's no longer with us anymore.

I may be wrong (never dealt with END673 by my hands) but what I figured out from the forum Mack made a major step redoing 673 into Maxidyne family. Those were called ETAZ-675 or so and further on and I belive started calling E6 and EM6 at a certain time. The matter I mention that is Maxidyne engines got newer more massive crank shaft and rods with reinforcements in the block too. Those parts differ from END-673, 711 and other older engines. E6/EM6 have removable liners you can purchase from PAI or other suppliers and they have an edge circle over the top to press into steel firerings to seal against the heads. Heads have recesses corresponding the edges at each cylinder. What is important all those parts are avalible and if older 673 have different liners, bearings, gaskets etc the overhaul may be found troubleful.

What I have on my mind is checking out on purchasing some old EM6 and use it as a basis for overhaul. Those engines look very similar to 673 at the outside and the most mating spots are similar. I mean the oil pan, front cover, etc. Sure every spot should be checked out for that but in general both engines have plenty of similarities.

I don't declare it as the way to go. But a possible option. First it worth to check out possibility of purchasing parts for 673 and having the value you may look for alternatives. My guess is buying a complete engine for parts wouldn't be a big offset in cost from the cost of all new parts. And as long as your engine is already not original to the truck you don't loose truck's originality much.

5 minutes ago, Brocky said:

Vlad, It was also great to meet you in person at Macungie that year!!!  Hope I can visit with you again..

Thanks Brocky. Me too. 

I hope for the things to go a better way in our world.

4 hours ago, other dog said:

I went and retrieved that hand truck yesterday, and it's a nice one. Very heavy, no cheap junk here. I might have to make a little pallet of some sort for the pot to sit on so it won't tip over forward if I make a sudden stop, but that shouldn't be too hard. 

It would be good to put the oxygen and acetylene tanks on too, it even has the hooks to wind the hose up on. Too bad, I don't have a set of torches anyway.

This truck could be made to transport barrels originally. Or maybe gas set indeed. I have two tanks in my shop but limit myself with oxigen and propane tanks. I newer trained for gas welding and was told just heating with propane is less dangerous than use of acetylene. Maybe too much of to worry about but propane is quite fine to heat up some too rusty bolt or nut.

21 hours ago, other dog said:

Zina says hey, and Merry Christmas! I know the world is crazy now, but it would be great if you could make it to Macungie again.

Great to hear from Zina! 

I had been keeping her in mind yesterday, thinking of did she knew you invited that decoration crew. Sure kidding. I keep her in mind every time I remember you. It was really nice to meet in person at Macungie, no matter quite a while passed since.

Thanks for wanting me seen in your neighbourhood. I keep hopes for more travels to the US of A in the future but right at the time doubts prevail. Let's see and let's hope we will live long enough to enjoy doing cool thing. 

Happy upcoming New 2024! To Zina and to you Tom.

Good job on the stew!
Like the dogs. The red one, the green one, the tan one and the brown one.

Oh, and you didn't mention how many quarts you gave for having the Santa crew decorating your house.