Vladislav

No, I'm afraid the things are more complicated. Although Eastern R's and F's (sorry for one more long story typed) had different style of the chassis rails RS was Western Hayward built model. And it rode on constant section "straight" rails front to rear. FS were also Western models. And they were also built using straight rails. So my guess is someone modified FS (cabover) into conventional RS we can see on the picture. And while doing that the cab tag was eliminated. Or just lost in action.

The stamping on the chassis looks quite factory. No digits after the last "4", that's a dog Mack put in the front and after the chassis stamping starting from a certain year. So if nobody restamped the rail that's a chassis off Western Mack model FS cabover truck. Ok, "lightweight six wheel tractor".

The tag on the cab in the door opening is the cab number I belive. Cab model was indicated shorter, two letters and two digits. I just have no idea though who can identify that cab's origin by that number.

Vlad

Yes, that's Neway airride. Looks factory. I also have that style on my Canadian built R-model.  The best option from what I learned to the moment is purchasing ready rods of the needed length and replace them. BTW depressing the cone pins too probably will be a PITA. I still have a couple of brackets off differentials I removed together with a rod or just a pin and they're waiting for a gas torch to be fired up. Couldn't do anything good with those when on a truck. Even with a big sledge hammer.

The bushings are replacable in theory. They're supplied by Atro (with poliurethane?) and by others. I orered PAI parts since they were easy to purchase at the time and cost reasonable. When they were here and I tried the replacement I found out the long rod was fitted fine (sure using hydraulic press and fashioned spicer made by lathe) and the short rod had holes LARGER than new bushings were supposed to fit into. 

That short rod got its way to a machine shop where its holes were bored and sleeves pressed in. So it's ready for new bushings (and I'm not ready to put my hands on it yet). But the 2nd set is on the waiting list. And I expect the same issue there.

In my particular case importing the complete rods is expensive story since they're heavy and also not really cheap. New bushings were nearly $30 for the one with a brace and $50 for the pin. You need 4 of each style for a tandem truck.

44 minutes ago, mowerman said:

Yup, been there done that. You're on the way.

Next step (on my mind) would be grinding off  ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶s̶h̶i̶t̶  bad material from the inner side over the cracked areas and start applying new bondo from there. That when it set completely (I'd wait for 2-3 days for each spot) grind off the excess and a bit more at the outer side together with surrounding area and apply bondo on the face.

And yes, you don't need to remove all old repairs in a case the material looks strong enough and doesn't slice away.

Welcome to the forum!

Actually not that many parts are interchengeable between the two.

Doors as said above but you should look for the mirror bracket holes to be drilled different. The grille you have on the truck was also used on Eastern R700 (and not on R600). I would also say fuel tank J-brackets and frame cross members are of the same width. With a remark of their actual width depends on presence of inner rails if that's a double frame. The crossmembers are made narrower to compensate the inner rails thickness keeping the overall width between outer edges of the frame. So if you find a member off an R with a single frame it would suit your single frame F. If the particular crossmember is of the same style. Since 2 or 3 different styles were used for both models.

Frame rails are different between R and F700. F700 has fish belly at the center and the front end of the rails is fashioned different than on R's. Worth to point out there were F600 with similar or the same rails as R-model but your truck is F700. All front chassis brackets are different such as spring hangers, steering gear mounts, cab mounts etc. Front bumper has different bolt pattern. Front axle steering knucles, hubs and wheels would suit a particular front axle which could be put both onto F or R. The axle beam casting is the same but may have holes for the spring U-clamps drilled at different distance and my guess is that's how they are drilled.

Rear axle, engine and transmission would be similar as long as they're of the same particular model. Not sure on transmission mounts and also on the front engine mount (it was different for R's during the years of production). Speaking the cabs the seats, instruments, roof vent door, some parts of the steering column. Air wiper motor is of similar style but has different fitment. Could be probably reworked to install but I'm not sure.

Battery boxes with covers were of the same style for many Eastern Mack models during the era. The most of brake components are the same excepting air tanks I belive. Steering gear may be looked over to be found similar or suitable but it needs to be investigated over particular unit.

Ok, worth to add the windscreens are sure not interchangeable with R but similar ones were used in CF firetruck cabs.

Vlad

21 hours ago, Brocky said:

Paul, Have a happy Aussie day!!!!!  and thanks for the history lesson.. I would have said you folks were independent long before then?? Even pre WW 2????

I know Canada's day is July 1st, but I do NOT know what year???? I was on a pleasure boat in the St. Lawrence river in 1967 when Queen Elizabeth came up the river in her personal yacht (a refurbished mine sweeper??) on her way to Ottawa to celebrate the occasion.

As I remember Canada Day is the birthday of British queen Victoria. So since the year she was born? 

Have a Great Australia day Australia!

The same to Paul and the rest of the crue!

Looks glossy and sexy. 

And the interior of the 2nd truck is twice that way.

3 hours ago, Licensed to kill said:

Yes I did remove the pedal from the shaft to powder coat it. However, the only way that reorienting the pedal lever to make it contact the clutch lever would be to rotate everything forward so the levers are nearly horizontal (or at least on a 45) and the clutch leer would hit the bell housing. I am pretty sure that they are su[posed to be vertical when at rest. I wonder if there was a change up to these levers later in production to shorter ones?. My trucks are all pre-1960 and I have no idea what year the clutch lever is. If there was a change, the first 4 digits of the casting numbers were the same and I don't know how likely that would be. 

Ok, got it. I could measure my lever but saw not much sence in that since it's off a L-model (NR-model) so must not be similar to a B.

That's how the parts on my truck are installed (they're not in place yet though).

Ok, an idea. Didn't you remove the shaft the pedal fits onto? As I remember two key slots in the shaft are not in line. So if you put it left side right the key slots went off the correct place. 

Is the roller supposed to be pushed down? Mine (in 1945 NR) goes forward being kicked by the pad from the back side.

You're always welcome Bob.

Unfortunately there're not many active DMM owners in the community.

3" is a large missmatch. Seems like you should double check every component installed onto the chassis. Hope you have the cab off at the moment. 

The front corners of the cab are removable fiberglass panels. Easy to fix by the way of general fix for fiberglass. The front turn signals look just broken off or removed and their pedestals are up above. The spots don't look broken. The lights themself are standard lights you can purchase from SLC lighting or others. Overall the truck looks quite solid on the pics. MH has chassis similar to 2nd gen Superliner with only difference in the front spring front brackets since they have hinges for the cab integrated in the castings. MH's are typically shorter than RW's so chassis are less stressed during the service life. And supposed to be less cracked. But the particular truck is quite long for a MH. The engine is probably E6-350 for 1985-1988 (or 89) and later ones had E7's. MH613 means Mack engine tandem rears.

The engine, tranny, rears and the chassis are typical Mack stuff. Not far from an R-model. Front axle and springs are similar to Superliner as said above so no trouble to find spares (no more than for a R-model).  Specific parts are the cab which is rust-free but may have stress cracks. The one on the pics looks very solid. Typical issue is the shifter linkage where multiple joints wear out and bring troubles shifting into a particular gear. Some spots are relatively easy to fix (by machining) and some not. Complete linkage is difficult to get. Also when you're up in the cab and far from the tranny you barely hear when it grinds being shifted not in time. That's my observation in relation to an R. Windscreens aren't for sale at every corner and many trucks have repairs in the plates where cab shock absorbers fit. Cab airbags aren't a trouble to locate. Cab lifting pump may be leaky but that's just a hydraulic pump.

While driving you must keep specific road orientation relating to an R-model since you seat much closer to the outer side of the vehicle. Actually you're riding the FL wheel so you must keep yourself up close to the median white line on the pavement otherwise you may hit a pole by RH mirror. Maneurity is like of a big car in relation to a conventional. Of other typical MH issues the threadle valve in the cab use to get stuck having long steel plunger in aluminium base but that's when the truck is parked for a long while. Anyway worth to take apart, clean, put grease and install solid top rubber cover. The grill parts are hen's teeth as pointed above but those on the truck are fine judging by the pics.

On the postive side aside of maneurity you have perfect access to the tranny and easiness of clutch replace if needed. 

Ugh, and always be patient and keep attention while getting off the cab 

Vlad

Mine has the tanker body removed and not running. So somebody else 

On 1/17/2024 at 5:08 PM, Licensed to kill said:

Thank you Larry. Much appreciated. That is what mine is also. My problem must be with the other lever on the clutch pedal shaft. This has me REALLY baffled since al the parts I have came of a B-61 and I am using the same transmission and same clutch pedal arrangement so everything g SHOULD work....but it doesn't. In. your picture, it looks lie the lever on the clutch shaft is rather short, MUCH shorter than the one I took out of one of my trucks. I will put it all back together and post a pic. Hopefully someone will recognize what the problem is. 

Did you also use the original rear engine mounts for all the assembly?

I honestly don't remember all the plated ways you was figuring how to set up the truck the best but IF the chassis is the same, the engine is the same and the tranny is the same... the lever must fit. I can't imagine you put it upside down or someone came into your garage, stole the original one and put something else in place of it.

Mine had slight taper on the splines. You can barely but see it on my pics.

Those hydro units I had taken off Mercedes G and cars (with circulating balls) also had taper. So seems like typical design determined by what Larry explained above.

A steal from the Mack Historcal Museum?

That's a factory assembly drawing. BTW not almost up to scale if you're going to use say for modelbuilding.

I had to heat up my Pitman arm. Didn't go off with big puller. I put pressure than heated up to some grade (not red hot) and added a couple of good hits. Sure the situation may differ on a particular truck. 

Welcome to the dog house! Beware where you step! 

Hercules engines were installed in Studebaker US-6 trucks and also in Diamond-T's of WW2 times. Personally I'm not familiar with Herkules but know someone I could ask about. PM me which particular engine model you're looking info on and we will try to go from that.

Sure the forum folks may be of help too. But mostly here's Mack-related stuff.

Vlad

They put it up on Truckpaper for those same 18K. Doesn't look well cared or maybe it's just old. E9 under the hood and the 2nd stick in the cab for the 12-speed Lo-Lo.

Was it in Washington state?

11 hours ago, Wirlybird said:

Ok Guy's, thank you for all the ideas and info.  Problem solved, at least for now.

This AM, 17 degrees out, I removed the strap between the left solenoid post and the starter post.
Found the nut on the starter post to be a bit loose as in not tight enough.  that was a good sign!

Once I had the strap off I found the arcing/pitting on the underside of the strap where it goes onto the starter body post.  Another good sign.
Tested the solenoid and constantly got power to the left post when turning the key.  Good sign.

Jumped the starter between right post and start post.  Starter spun good.

Cleaned everything up and after several trips inside to thaw out I got it all back together.  Cranks right up and engaged and cranked strong.
NOW, I have to replace two little plastic pieces and springs in the fuel supply pump and we'll see if it will start.

All is done the right way! Great to learn the problem is solved.

If you're going to use the truck in the future and taking to account that machine isn't new it worth to remove the starter and go through it completely. Mostly for cheking contition of the brushes and shaft bushings and also for cleaning and grease. These starters seem able to work for really long time. But preventive service would minimize chances of unexpected failure.