Vladislav

Are they steel housings not new plastic replica's?

Yes, they seem being avalible in Australia and GB. If I'm not wrong Mack had assembly plant in Schotland at a certain time and those FS-models were probably made there. Red truck on the photo has British plates. It was at Mack show in Amsterdam in 2016 where the pic was taken. The wheel is at the left side though. The other two images are from the net.

I'm really looking for a pair of RW2 front cab mounts off a chassis. Also that "two legged" bracket attached to the very 1st cross member the hood brace fits onto. And two portions of 1/4" thick RW600/MH frame rails each nearly 5' long to add to MH frame.

Great looking old pics! Really nice they shwed up. Now your lovely toy added a portion of articts to her history. Time to order a couple of new wall frames.

Looks really nice... for a house. And for a truck it's high luxury! Seems like a set of four carpets with Mack logo are on the way with purpouse to put under wheels of a rig when placed on that deck. Or two long red carpets

Or after "just" sanding off one more time.

Nice looking old bird. $50 higher than your bid didn't mean you would win putting $50 more. But potential of possible increase may be seen not really large indeed. Have you got your possibilities to keep a truck at your property improoved to start looking for a new big toy? Honestly it was sad to observe that situation forced you to get rid of RS and RWS.

Uggh.. My worry is you overvalue me. Thanks.

Thanks for the points. I'm not much into social media, prefere actual contacts and talks. Which I have more than I would like to have time to pay attention to everyone. BMT is a kind of social media either and it's my only exception at the moment. Main reason is the subject of discussions which I really like and also have no alternative places to provide or be involved into. The 2nd is possibility to participate culture of a different nation and society. And putting aside possible argueing on which is worse and which's better you can relate what you see and understand and make your "food for thought" much more extensive. On my mind that's good when plenty of vintage artifacts find their way to the market. A thing can go to a person who needs it instead of getting lays of dust in someone's barn. And the more facilities helping goods to move the better. For the best those facilites should be both seller and customer friendly. Personally I'm not much in need of Mack parts at the moment. Collected plenty during the years keeping in mind I should catch as long as I could and now it seems I was right on that. On the other hand as deeper I'm in my projects as clearer I see I more need time and labour that extra parts. Even money don't work without personal elbow grease. So under current circumstances I try focusing myself on work and this way the circumstances may be looked over as a positive factor. Or maybe that's just me trying to get outcome from any situation. I understand the matter of the circumstances and way off from any complain. Unfortunately I can't influence on them and could not.

Yes Paul, Facebook is blocked by the locals. Along with a few (many?) other resources. For example they limited access to Linkedin about a decade back already. There are talks on limiting Youtube partially or complete but looks like there are troubles with that. So far. Actually I never did much with FB. Otherwise I would probably resolve the issue using VPN or so as many other folks do here. Just don't have real need so don't pay enough attention. That's sad importing a truck to Australia became impossible. I heard about troubles in the past. Here I can't and couldn't import a truck for a while. It must be higher than Euro-5 emission level, otherwise prohibited. I can import a vehicle as a so-called cultural value. It must be 30 or more years old and pre-agreed by an expert of the Ministry of Culture. No import tax for such object but it gets not allowed to drive in a public road. Just no title is issued.

Looks like the complete set up. Good catch up. I always knew they look similar but the reference you showed really surprizes.

Allen head are not period correct. Elevator ones would work.

That's one nice looking unit. And the wheelbase is quite long for a cabover. Honestly with all those sanctions, limitations on export and higher Dollar cost in my country I feel a kind better with much less of drool over one (two-three-four) more potential never finished project. Thanks for posting the pic. Facebook is still off my achievement.

The main shaft end play is managed by the main box main shaft rear bearing assembly. There are two cone bearings in a housing and also some special "nut" in there which you turn to tight up the bearings and which is set in its (new) place by a set screw you need to drill new hole for its new location. That procedure can only be done with the main shaft removed from the transmission. It gets off together with the rear bearing assembly and requires the compound box to be off the tranny. When I was doing mine I honestly forgot about that and when both blasted and painted boxes were together with a gasek on a sealer I just cheered myself up with checking up and down end play of the main shaft front end and feeling "Ok in general" rest it as it was. Haven't understood did the discussion went along the in-between the housings gasket. Maybe it worth to point out its thikness influences the countershaft pre-load/end play. So the figure which exceeds the specs may be result of thicker gasket installed in the past.

My guess is ENDT673 liners are not similar to EM6/E6 ones having no edge at the upper end for sealing over the firering. That's Maxidyne/Econodyne thingy and END's/ENDT's had liners with flat top end. E6/EM6 liners are avalible through multiple aftermarket suppliers including PAI. But I have doubts on avalibility for END's.

Judging by the drawing you are right. Pre-load on the countershaft. When I read LTK's post in the morning I haven't looked the diagram over. So didn't understand why the way of things went off the end play to pre-load.

Seems a bit strange to hear continue on the pre-load/end play discussion since that was told in this thread above already. To point out once more. There are two different ways of managing a bearing unit. One way is when you set two bearings with a gap between them. So they're a bit free from each other, and when you make a check during assembly of such a unit you measure the play. And as you usually do it at a end it's called end play. There may be different way, when you forse one bearing agains the other. In that case rollers or balls are always under pressure during the operation. To achive that you assemble the unit forcing bearing's cone or race by a certain part (cover, nut etc). As long as you need a certain particular amount of that force (to not overtight and burn the races) you have to measure it. Usually two procedures are used for that: adding a certain distance to the part you tight up the bearing with, or measure of the spin torque. This way you put pre-load to the bearings. What's important is the way the bearings should be set up is determined in the design of the unit. And when you see a "pre-load" procedure in a repair manual you set pre-load. If you see "end play" you check the play. Which sure means a gap or clearance. Actually pre-load is a "negative end play".

You can only do the adjustment at the rear end. The front bearing is not a cone, it's cylindrical and floats when you manage the position of the two shafts together by the rear bearing. See the diagram, not difficult to figure out understand the design.

Checked out a cut through draw of TRD-72/720 tranny I have in a H-model parts list. The rear cover of the countershaft bearing is flush mount with the housing outer wall. It gets in indeed where it pushes the bearing race but the surrounding area (over the studs) would show a gap if the shim pack's removed. Sorry, now draw for a TRT-72 in my cabinette.

Double-checked my book. The particular figure, the way it was typed there, was .000-.002. So I guess (pretty sure so far) it should be read as 0.000-0.002. Yes, for both the shafts, togeher. Each one will figure out its needed share.

E-model and A-model windshields are very similar (doubtly interchengeable but who knows). The difference is E-model one is openable and A-model has it fitted into a rubber seal. L-model can't have one piece windshield since those two it has are positioned at an angle to each other (V-shaped).

I did that end play setting procedure on TRD-37. Mostly similar to TRD72, just a bit older and doesn't have a sliding clutch for the 1st gear so you put the mesh in just by the gear itself, the same way as the reverse. 72's were improved a bit about that but the rest seemed very similar judging but the books. So the end play of the countershaft was prescribed to be checked with a dial indicator set against the front end of the main counter shaft. You remove the front cover of that shaft from the cluch side of the tranny. The matter is the front bearing is a cylindrical roller bearing, not a cone. So can float. The rear bearing of the front countershaft is a double cone. The front cone sets against a race installed in the main case rear wall when you forse the shaft up front (the cone oriented to the front). Behind it, also on the rear end of the main shaft the 2nd cone installed, but oriented to the rear. And the compound box countershaft's front bearing race sets against that 2nd cone. The rear end of the compound countershaft has its rear bearing race in the rear wall of the compound housing where you can load it up front with the outside bearing cover. And the grade of the affect is limited by the shims pack. This way you remove all the shims, fit the rear cover and slightly tight up a couple of nuts. Pry the main shaft through the PTO hole and look for the movement of the front end with the indicator. Turn nuts tighter to forse both the shafts to move to the front and see lesser readings. When you're withing the desired figure measure the gap between the rear cover and the housing with a filler gage and use a shim pack that thick. The book I have points out a 0.000-0.002" end play. That tranny is a predecessor of 72 series and my particular unit was made in 1945. But overall the design looks very similar so I guess those figures should work.

As said above. And good luck on playing with the new toy!

So true Jojo! I was lucky to meet many BMT members. Had opportunity to attend Macungie show twice. Probably should do more but jumping over the pond was not too cheap deal. First time I was there, in 2013 guys met near Whatt's stand for the group photo. And some one figured to print paper stickers to write a nick name on and fit to a short on your chest. So everybody could recognize everybody and there were nearly 30+ guys there than! That was fun. Also I keep personal contacts with a few people on/from here and was helped out multiple times.

Almost as Terry said above. You set end play for both main and compound countershafts together. Of how to identify a tranny the way could be opening the top covers (which worth to do anyway before anything else) and figure it's duplex or triplex and direct or over just by looking at the gears.