Vladislav

Looks great! Oh... I have to wait until those Dutches reduce the price in some times though

Haven't noted any vertical strips. It has air brakes (do they EQ's all have?) The truck's location has me scratching my had - not far from a sea port. Although I pass. Should finish any of my projects first. Any thoughts on it might be an ex-army vehicle?

Good report as usual, many interesting. The mighty boat on the ocean is cool. Like the KW and it's color. And looks like the party turned out well with that company again.

What a nice looking rig! Vinny must be going crazy happy seeing it.

I planned to provide such a repair but took that task aside for some while. The main idea was to drill a hole(s) from the opposit side and hit the dent out with some long pin and a hammer. Next weld the holes back. My one is of the same kind but aluminium. I did that way when fixed cavits on the SS bull bar. Made couple of hills and filed them off, sanded and polished up.

Not all but many of those FWD trucks look cool on my mind. If the memory serves me good there were some FWD's used in Russian army during WW1.

DM is nice and I too like the sausage R model looks surprizingly clean.

Especially in the relation to the one with running E9 for $4000 about a year back. Looks solid on the pic though.

Maybe you need to cut a splined end a steering column's shaft and weld it up back shortening it. Not nice, maybe some different way. The installation manual in the pic makes hopes for the best. As far as I know there are steering columns of different lengthes (and angles?) depending on B's hood length. Or maybe this one is only for B61?

I have only seen this one. In Pa. Surprized and thought for first it was some different brand machine labled of the engine in it.

About 20 years back I was offered to get Bobcat front loader for free. With a broken pump though. That time I lived in the city having no land at all. Now the only thing I can do is try to bite my elbow about that moment. RandyP, interesting constraction object you deal with. Too wish it will turn out very well. I like concrete works. (Like and hate, that gray stuff cost like gold when I need it alot)

Leon, I probably can help to ship from NY to Klaipeda or Riga, both the EU. May ask about from Fl also. If I have a B-model I don't miss this setup.

Thank you for the invite although it's a long ways off. Too hope to visit your country one day, old Macks is the main reason to. If you do the event on a yearly basis I'll mark it in my copybook.

Larry, do you have that small hat chrome plated and usable for a R-model?

I better don't see that Ultraliner...

Reasonable amount of chrome never make bad to any classic.

Do you have a coal mine nearby?

Can't believe. Or can if you mean it was nowadays for a nice looking truck. Here in Russia there are some hard-living units, maybe 10-20 all over the country, so I keep them in my mind to get a down-broken one by chance. Nice looking rig you drive

I actually have them not but they exist. I ordered full 3D modelling of Mack bogie making measurments off my '45 truck. This arrangement could be used for heavy L's, B's and some different models with 24 spokes. I planned also to modify 24 into 22 and extend the selection. Although the life is going much slower then we want sometimes. I put the order to the local scale-building company and try estimated it as not a toy work. I agreed depending on the working time required, about 15 days on my mind. Then they had a good start that followed long-time bla-bla-bla and so on. They were pre-payed by the word. There was not just the order of 3D model although they must to realize it in 1:24 by milling machine (original plan) or 3D printing. I keep hopes for the future and if I have anything I can put in my hand I'll inform the community for shure.

Don't forget about 20 inches. Haven't heard about 20.5's though. Just pictures is not the way to go for a correct and detailed 3D model. You should make many pictures of a real part fixing it in the front/side projection and make at least general drowing with the most basik measurements. That way you'll make designer's life much easier and more and more important increase the final product's quality paying the same $$.

Congratulations! Nice find. Would like to see it pictured in your yard soon.

The spokes for 22 and 24 are definitely different. As far as I know (I was told on here, not many other sources for me) 22.5 and 24.5 rims fits in place of 22 and 24. I also ordered 3D design of the spoke hubs although earlier version than you need. Designer made the work partly but I wait it done above 2 years yet...

Paint lived it up, looks nice! Oh hell, the markers light... Definitely spokes will look better on it, hope you'll be able to fit them soon.

Surface rust covered all the faces of many teeth nearby, there were not the holes in the surface but total rust-out. I was worrieing about overdrive because both the constant mesh and the top-speed set work. And I'm not as worry of a break down but a noise. Revs is definitely the way to go although I was told about conrods came out on this type of engine. No, TRD-37 is the big box, the same design as TRD-72. TRD-67 looks less in size and arranged different.

...Got the gearbox apart. It's overdrive two-stick unit called TRD-37 with 0.78 top hole. Don't know why it's not called TRD-370, probably in 1945 it was a different way. When I pulled out the top cover I saw most the gears were pretty rotted, and that was more important, all the high gears. Anyway I took all the stuff apart, cleaned, washed, all the bolts and nuts were sent to halvanic lab and they already came back now. Body parts were prepared to sand-blasting, some covers/levers/rods/pins were done and painted waiting assembly. By the way I had a trip to The Netherland and found all the gears I needed to change. So now all looks like Ok and I must be happy. But... The truck is 10 tonn twin screw NR-14 model of 1945. It has (will have) 131 bhp 519 c.i. Mack Lanova diesel under the hood. It has 9.02 rears and 0.78 overdrive so with 11.00-24 tyres my Dutch friend can run the same unit about 40 mph at 2000 revs. He told me he could reach 44 mph if go 2100 wich is limited. For shure I don't too like such the things. He also. The first thing comes to everybodie's mind is to swap the rears. For example, if I want to get about 55 I need 55/40=1.375, 9.02/1.375=6.56 or higher. Looking the net for a couple of years I figured out it's not easy to find high-speed carriers off L-model wich seem to me the same attachment. Dutch experience gave me the fact a top gear set off a B-model carrier can be used in my housings (carriers marked CR32/CR33). Looking further it seems to me I also could be able to fit an upper set off CDR-92/93 but with a short design divider. I don't like this way because too want to keep everything outside stock. So there might be different ways around that. Back to the gearbox. It might have some potential of increasing the top speed also. Want to repeat I don't plan to use anything with a different body. Keep stock look. Nevertheless an overdrive ratio can be increased. Figuring out a gearbox design I learned a constant mesh gear set must be changed to increase an OD, a OD gear sets itself are made about the same size and don't allow to play much. Continue to looking over the books and BMT-wiki I got the mind that the inside of my TRD-37 might be combined with gears off TR(D)-720 or maybe some other Mack-built units I hadn't info of. So OD might be increased up to 0.65 (combining high-speed constant mesh off TRD-720 and high-speed OD set off TR-37). It could make the top speed of 40mph x0.78/0.65 = 48mph. Better but not quiet enough. If increase it a bit with 7.32 rears I found (expensive and heavy so twice expensive when shipped overseas) it will turn out 48mph x9.02/7.32 = 59 mph wich is very good. Although there might be different way. Most overdrive units have big steps between gears. The original TRD-37 has 1.92 third (hi) and 1.00 fourth (hi) so needed to shift down compaund every time from 3 to 4. If use a direct top gearbox (gear set in my body) it makes shifts easier and (I hope) don't required splitting. Next, old direct-top boxes has "normal" shift pattern i.e. left-up - left-down - right-up - right-down when OD's shifts left-up - left-down than right-DOWN - right-UP. Maybe it's not a trouble but I absolutely don't used to do it. It's easier to find a direct-top box for parts although it will required much more high rears - about 5.5. All that shure has me scratching my head for awile although I want you guys to let me know one easy thing: Maybe I do a stupid thing combining all those figures because that 131 bhp engine can't get such a quick moving to the vehicle weighted 12 tonns ???