Jump to content


Pedigreed Bulldog
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Vladislav

  1. Do you mean those "buttons" were installed inside cavits in axle housings? Strange to me since my military Mack made in 1945 already had rubber pads for both the top and the bottom of the springs. Maybe the reason was my Camelback is 44000 and yours looks lighter, I'd say 34000. I'm not ready to give 100% bulletproof advice but if I were you I'd look for Mack rubber pads of different sizes and try to use suitable ones in place of the buttons. Should admitt in most cases Camelback rubber pad destroy occures lower pads. And upper ones are found worn quite seldom.
  2. Should admitt the double headlights are "Russian improvement" and the grill was bought and installed by me. Don't know the reason but the most SGT R688 and some other Canadian R's didn't have it. Seems strange since I would expect it as standard factory equipement for the particular Mack model.
  3. Ufff!... No, that's not my truck and none of the 5 went to Russia. But configurated the same. The exceptions are aerodyne top instead of a plane shield my truck has and there are additional fuel tanks which were specified in the factory order list but by some reason were never installed. The most interesting matter along these trucks is the style of that sleeper. I saw multiple ones but they were all installed on SGT R-models. And I never saw anything like that elsewhere.
  4. Swishy, mate, thanks for clearing me up. Now I'm not that blind in part ## jungles
  5. Thanks for the info support and the offer. I will keep Bendix one in mind. Would like to go with two almost similar ones. And I have no less than a year to find them. Just slowly collect parts required for the project. Ok, a point to note - 20QE458 doesn't cross to 103009 (4pci crack) but to 065125 with 5,5 pci. Wonder how that difference in crack pressure is sufficient for brakes operation?
  6. With that wobble I would be worrieing of the front end of the crank get worn. Met such issue on a car's engine and had to swap the shaft.
  7. What? Exhaust?? I was pretty sure those were two electric poles at the background. Seriousely.
  8. As Paul almost correctly said, you need first the door latch (lock) unscrewed from the sheet metal and key cylinder removed by pulling off a clip aside to it. After that as said in the previous answer remove all the machine screws around the square panel, turn loose two screws near inside door opening handle (but keep them in place) and pull all the assembly out together with the window and door lock. I have it done both on a truck and on a door removed and found no difference. The door is much less of weight when empty if you're going to install it on a truck but absolutely no reason to remove a complete door in a reason to just take it apart or change window/lock/regulator. Vlad
  9. Going to buy a new pair of such ones to put on my R-model. Went through flea-bay and found they differ about port locations and some marked as 4 pci crack pressure. Also I noted there's plenty of different (Bendix) part## which didn't have much in common. A question - what should I look for making the choice? My originals valves have tags gone. The truck is a long wheelbase R-model tractor unit which is most probably supposed to drive without a trailer and just for hobby reasons. The pics are what I removed from 31 y.o. chassis and they looked being installed there at the factory. Thanks in advance, Vlad
  10. Spray sealant? One really good idea. And bad thing I'm not sure that's a stuff I could easily fing in my neck of the woods. When I went through that step assembling a carrier I applied common sealer from a tube and sure got some outtashapeness of contact pattern on the teeth.
  11. What's about this subject? I found not much interest to the matter and no proof. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/59186-b-model-door-handles/
  12. The brake valve iself is a common type threadle valve. The part you need is a kind of spicer. Same general design as say R-model but longer to suit MH cab. The plunger which is actually a tappet is longer also. If no options to purchase a good part I would try alu welding and than grind the edges into the shape and drill 3 holes. Vlad
  13. Pretty interesting, thanks for sharing that Paul.
  14. Were they built that way because of different drive side at the oil fields or just by mistake?
  15. If anybody would pay for transportation of 450 bushels of grain from OH to PA the amount of chances to sell the truck is much higher.
  16. Doesn't sound nice. If a lawyer would try bothering you please let me know the matters. Knock on wood
  17. Yes, Delaware, not Deutschland. And no dog sled over Bering strait too.
  18. Excellent truck pictures Tom! And that little B-dump is sweet indeed.
  19. I usually resize all images I make. That delete the most or all additional information from the files. So probably identification of origin would be more difficult or impossible
  20. Upps... Some more lights and warning flashers would make things easier.
  21. I would offer $30 plus shipping (to DE) for the chromed pair if it's still avalible.
  22. I might be wrong but if the memory serves right it wasn't sold. The owned put it up for sale than changed his mind and just marked as sold.
  23. I too liked red B-73 or 75 dump truck. If my memory serves well it's private collectpr's truck, put for display in the museum.
  24. I'm going to ream it for 1/32" And hope for no need to insert alu foil in between
  • Create New...