Steve L

Hi Josh I just replied to you message. The 2v and 4v share the same bottom ends but there’s a huge advantage with the 4v heads, better economy, more grunt and smoother running over the 2v and I can’t recall seeing a cracked 4v head. Then came the E7. I think the heads remained the same but the stroke increased about 1/2 inch and the bottom end is visually heavier ( crank, rods ) the extra stroke Mack’s contained in the bottom end without increasing the block height, actually the E6 and E7 share the same dimensions. We have found the E7 bolts right in where the E6 was removed without any modifications. Your truck looks great and if it were me I would repower, we repowered our 2 Valueliners as didn’t want to be tied down to computers and the associated problems. 
Steve 

Hi, I had one posted through UPS and was reasonably cheep. How much do you want for the unit.

cheers Steve 

I would be interested in one if you still have them Bud’s

Hi guys I’m looking for a E7 mechanical injection pump, or any info as to who might sell them new.

thanks in advance 

Steve

I’m looking for one also Gravelguy, they like hens teef to find

Get a mate to sit on the mudguard pumping then go to work 

I would go the Mack 44s any day, but that’s just me

I set all our manual E6 350 4V at 21 deg regardless or year, the auto advance/computer engines are much lower. 

Hey 41 don’t make a rat rod outa it, restore it back to original. There’s plenty of inters etc to make rat rods, not a classic Mack. If you go ahead u gotta find a big Detroit,  Or sell it to me.

Are they radial or nylon tyres. Nylon tyres always do that after standing just overnight let alone a few months or years. It should even out after the tyres warm up. If they are old tyres and standing quite awhile flat spots may become permanent.

 Very true Mark, I see a lot of guys swapping out Mack boxes for Fuller due to ease of driving, which I’m sure they are. some love or hate Mack boxes and the haters are hard to convert. I purchased a new Mack E6 12 speed 350 in 87, done 2.4 million kilometres in it, had 2 camshafts failures in that time and absolutely no other trouble, never had the gearbox out. Sold it to a guy in Perth where I spent a couple hours showing him the gearbox ( wish I had my stick but it wasn’t my truck anymore) then flew back home. Just over a month later he called me and said the truck was in Mack’s getting a new clutch, he also mentioned fitting a RR which I talked him out of. 

I would like to know the technique also Paul. My technique is after it’s in gear and moving forget the friggin the clutch. From B model quad box’s to 18 speed, single trailer to triples grossing 120+ tons . . . . forget the clutch. I have worn out engines before changing clutches. I used to sit alongside new drivers for an hour or two and take a 2 ft stick with me. They soon found out what the stick was for cos I used it on their knee if they attempted to lift their clutch leg. Oh they were the days, now I have to supply a cut lunch, a head banging stereo and ask them if they are comfortable. Times have changed. 

The 9 speed is too far between gear changes especially the last 2 or 3 which you are experiencing now. The 12 speed is about 450 revs between gears. We run 12 speed ( our preference) 18 Mack and 13 road rangers, all trucks will be 12 speed Mack gearboxes as soon as I find another couple of rear mount PTOs to fit the 12s. I can tell you from experience as I do all the rebuilds myself the 18 speed is enormously expensive to repair and I don’t believe gear hardening is as good as it used to be back when Mack’s held the reins. The road rangers are every bit as good as a Mack gearbox just we prefer to keep our trucks all Mack and all compatible to drive. If you go RR make sure you find one with the engine mount ears on the housing, those housings are like hens teef to find here in OZ. I have never had problems with gearbox compatibility to the Mack engine, everything has always bolted up, one exception is there are 2 bell housing diameters no 1 and no 2. Be careful of the smaller ones, never seen one on a Mack though. I have a 6V53 and 610 RR which im fitting in a C60 Chev which have the smaller clutch housing. 

I wouldn’t mind one of those ACs back here in Australia. It would be a/my restorers dream. 

Did you just change the peanuts milkman

Shocks on 38s are fairly common here in Oz.
Looking at the axle pic welding a new stub on this way is not safe as I have seen these break off along side the weld. Also unless the whole axle is put in a lathe they can’t be straight causing excessive wear on planetary gears and axle shafts especially the 44 floating shafts ( the axles with splines on each end ) Is it not possible to purchase the original stub / quill from Mack’s? They’re simple to fit, should be 100% straight and not subject to crystallisation due to excessive heat concentration by welding. 

Thanks Harry 

Be sure to check the cams while apart. If the peanuts are worn ( I have seen them chipped ) most likely the cams are worn also. The inner cam comes out with the assembly so easy to inspect but you need to look inside the carrier nose to inspect the outer cam. Replacing only the peanuts when the cams are worn only limits the new peanuts life. I have heard of the peanuts and inner cam being replaced successfully due to the drama/ complications of removing and pre loading the piñion bearing, not something I would do unless pressed by a customer. 

Also if it’s making that much noise the inner and outer cams may need replacing.

I’ll put my money on the peanuts. Done plenty of them over the years. 

I guess he’s holding till the price goes up Harry as is presently happening with the R and Valueliner. I would like to restore an F model next once I have completed the Superliner . . . . . . that’s if the Superliner doesn’t run me out of money, fortunately I purchased it with a rebuilt engine. 

Galv cabs would have been especially great for F models here in OZ. In the late 60s early 70s I worked for a large company who predominantly had F modes plus a handful of flintstones,  Try finding an F model to restore now —- it’s impossible, I missed the boat.

A friend of mine in his retirement purchased a late 60s 250 flintstone (R model) for resto. because I done an apprenticeship at Mack’s back then when they were introduced he gets me to sort tech problems when they arise. He had an oil cooler leak so he rectified it himself and changed the oil and filters. Oil pressure dropped from usually 60+psi to 10 - 12. . . . I advised him to fit a manual gauge at different points around the engine and still showed 12 psi. He removed the cooler again, checked everything, refitted but still low pressure. I didn’t visit the truck this time but over the phone he told me he fitted Fleetguard filters. I insisted he fit new Mack filters and he was adamant Fleetguard were new and ok. I told him I would come fit Mack filters If he didn’t. Problem solved, I didn’t get to cross reference the Fleetguard filter numbers because he took them back to the dealer but one thought came to mind,  he may have been supplied with fuel filters. I have serviced 100s maybe near 1000s of Mack’s back then until I seemed to get gearbox rebuilds, I can assure you we filled oil and fuel filters every time from a clean source. I’m a stickler for genuine parts for the driveline and mechanical’s 

steve 

I’ll try disconnecting the stealth brake when I get the truck going, if there’s no or little performance gain I will probably remove it. 

Paul I have a E7 exhaust brake setup ( butterfly type) from a CH if I want it and was thinking of doing exactly the same as you mentioned on my E6 350 4valve. The Quantum was a prime mover and I only drove it bobtail, it’s fitted with both ( jake and exhaust) and it really felt like it was going to face plant in the bitumen, it might be a different story with 40 plus ton sitting behind it, will be interesting to compare when it’s going.