gumbiegumbie

The stuff from Mack had their logo on the tube but it was gray. I will try actual Permatex Ultra grey the next go around and try putting it on both sides because so far I've only been putting a thick bead around the housing making sure to go around all the bolt holes but I never waited 20 minutes or so to let it get tacky either. I will incorporate all these new suggestion into the next go around and see how it goes. Thanks for all the ideas, hopefully it will work out.

If there is a trick to keeping a mack drive axle from leaking oil between the carrier and the housing I would sure LOVE to hear it. I have cleaned everything past a surgical status and used the silicone that mack gave me that was their "special stuff" that was supposed to be "just for that". I followed their instructions to the letter. I checked around the bolt holes for cracks, I've went back and checked bolts nurmerous times......etc etc. It still wont stay dry for more than a week. I was just kidding in the title, I'm not gonna weld it in, although I wonder if the lack of a seam would mean it couldn't leak? Is there anything that can be done to stop these axles from leaking? besides draining the oil.... The camelback bushings are new, the isolator pads are all new, the torque rods are all new, pretty much everything that touches the rear end is new. Also new vents just in case there was thoughts of building internal pressure. Wonder if I could paint it around the seam with that flex-seal stuff on TV that the dummy coats the screen door with and uses it as the bottom of a fishing boat? I would try anything at this point.

The torque limit switch you speak of, is that a setting in the computer? If so, I'm assuming I can turn that off and leave it off since you're saying he locked it out. I've never really like anything that included the word limit!

Thanks mackpro. I'm going to show this to them so maybe it will shed some light on what I'm trying to do. I had a set of good injectors that I know fit my engine and I use the chart you gave me to buy the right tip and put them in myself and even without having the computer reprogramed yet I can already tell a very noticeable difference. Places that I Drive a lot and know how fast I'm usually going by certain landmarks I'm going faster and in a higher gear already. Not sure if the injectors are in better shape or if it's the bigger tip or a combination of the two but it's definitely better! Hopefully I can get the computer right and it will be even better. Thanks for the info and all the charts with the sizes of everything on it

Mackpro68, do you work at a mack dealer? The mack dealer here says that putting that vin# on my truck is mission impossible. Said that if that vin wasn't the one that came on my truck it could not go on my truck because "mack" won't let them. What are they missing? Can it really be done? What do I need to tell them to convince them to do it?

well, I put the 460 injectors in and I'm having a problem so I pulled them out and after closer inspection I seen that the body of the injector is made a little different. Mainly talking about the oring grooves. My old injectors have the thick oring at the top and then one thin one just under the head towards the top of the body of the injector. well the new ones have the thick top oring and I realized that I had actually put the thin oring in the groove where the body screws together. It was late, and I was tired but I should have noticed that the new injectors don't have the second oring groove just under the head. Looking at some on the internet that say they are for the AC460 the pictures look like what I have without the second groove so I'm guessing that the AC injectors are different and that's what I have. I have the older 2001 e-tech and I'm guessing the way the cup in the head is made you have to have the injectors with the groove for the thin oring? right or wrong?

It was a lifter hanging. I made some magnet sticks to hold them up and one had let go. Once they were all suspended on the magnets, it slid right out. Thanks for the info!

im working on an e7 etech and im having the same problem. I have the lifters held up with magnets and the eup's are out and the rollers for them and I have the two bolts out of the thrust plate on the front. It just wont move. I've pryed, pulled, I whacked it with a dead blow thinking it might free it up but nothing. it just wont slide either way. the back of the camshaft doesn't have anything does it? Hope not, thats inside the bell housing.

Mackpro, in another forum on this site you and a guy were talking about the 460 XT download not being the same anymore and how Mack did a recall offering a free oil change if you would bring in your truck and let them reflash it to the new 460 program that was more EPA friendly or something. This being the case, am I just wasting my money and time trying to get the 460 download that they are going to use now instead of the one you got back in the good ol days that came on the trucks?

Mackpro. I know that it more than likely does but wanted to be sure so I thought I would ask if that VIN number has a Jake brake?

THANKS MACKPRO. I wish I could buy you a beer or lunch or both! I have an 01 pre CCRS and that is just what I was looking for was a VIN number they can use with the right program. Thanks again bud!

There is a non-wastegated 460 turbo, I already have that. I also have the bigger injector nozzles. You have to back the cam timing up with the cam key and some engines have a bigger balancer for the higher horsepower, but I have that to. My only dilemma is this programming issue.

There is a non-wastegated 460 turbo, I already have that. I also have the bigger injector nozzles. You have to back the cam timing up with the cam key and some engines have a bigger balancer for the higher horsepower, but I have that to. My only dilemma is this programming issue.

Ha! Money is always an issue. All 3 dealers within driving distance are the same people. When we had another truck flashed for computer problems they charged one hour labor. That basically what I was wanting them to do this time only flash it with the program that came in a 460 truck. Has anyone done something like this and knows that it works?

My truck is a 2001. Pre emission and it would have been the standard download had the truck been ordered with a 460. I don't think that download would be illegal in any way because there are thousands of trucks running it that came with it.

I have a e-tech 400 and my Camshaft has a couple lobes wearing off. I have been slowly trying to up the horsepower and have put a bigger turbo that would have come on the 460 and I have the bigger injector nozzles. When I change the camshaft I'm going to use the cam key for the 460 and I want to have my computer reflashed. I'm kind of getting the runaround from Mack about the computer part. Can I not just get the VIN number from a truck that came with the 460 XT and let them use that to flash my computer? Is this the easiest way and if not what is the easiest way to get to the 460 XT flash into my computer.

Well, my low side is high 20's to low 30's. my high side is 220 ish the compressor isn't cycling because the evaporator never gets cold enough for the thermostat to cycle the compressor. My vent temps are in the mid 50's so I guess it is working just as it should. I always run on recirculate because it's a dump truck and I'm always in mega dust. I guess mack just didn't put enough air conditioner on this thing. I guess it's time for new door seals and really dark window tint. If I can't make cold air I have to try to keep more hot air out but I really don't think thats the problem. Is there any tricks to make the evaporator colder? Different tonage expansion valve? Adjustable expansion valve? my old international had a bigger cab and the same size evaporator and got way colder. I've always thought that if you have to run an ac on high all the time it wasnt big enough for the application.

I have a 01 ch613 and of its much hotter than about 85° you're just gonnao sweat. My question is, can an expansion valve work "a little"? My compressor is pumping, I weighed the freon in acording to the sticker, MY condenser and evaporator are clean, the engine fan and the blower fan are working good but this thing just wont cool good. 50° to 60° is as cold as I can get to come out the vents. oh yeah and the heater control valve is closing all the way. It cools better idling than revved up thats why I was wondering if the expansion valve could be messed up but still work a little bit. don't want to change it if I don't need to basically because it's not the easiest thing to get to and I don't want to waste the freon. Thoughts?

anyone have a way to find out the mack part# for the windshield rubber for a 2001 ch613. vin# 133939 if thats how you want to look it up. Thanks!

Well, I climbed under the truck this morning to get the speedo sensor out and go get one and found some weird happenings. The sensor had come unplugged and the pigtail was just hanging there. I thought I was having a moment like the movie "Christine" or in a scary movie when the piano is playing and when they go look nobody is there playing it. The only thing I can come up with is that the side of the pigtail coming from the harness was ziptied to the side of the barrel on the sensor and I guess it was picking up just enough of the magnetic pulse from the sensor to make the speedometer work? I have no other explanation other than maybe the truck is alive and just knows how fast it's going. I cleaned the clip on the plug where it could lock down better and plugged it up and all is well !!

Lack of info....duh? Its a 2001 CH613 e-tech 400 fuller 9 speed if that matters. And I've been told that this year model makes it v-mac III

I have a code 41 which is supposed to be vehicle speed sensor but my speedometer works? The problem is the cruise control won't work which is very aggravating. Is it possible for the speed sensor to be bad but the speedometer still be working? don't know if its a coincidence but I was driving in heavy rain when the problem came up splashing through lots of deep ruts in the highway so I'm sure everything under the truck is drenched. Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!

I have a ring and pinion for "CRD93" The pinion is 16 tooth and the ring is 17 tooth. These make a 3:86 ratio. Some people call it 3:87.....same thing, just depends if you round the 6 up to a 7 when you do the math. The gears are take outs that are in excellent shape with no problems what so ever. Still has the pinion bearing on it to make things a little easier. These are listed on ebay for $80 with $20 shipping but if you buy them off here I will cover the shipping since I wont have ebay fees and they will also be insured either way at my expense. If youre interested text or call TJ 870-362-0013

I would like to buy some gears to change my rears to 3:94 ratio. Mack told me that my cross shaft and bull gear would work and I could just change my ring and pinion. I need them for both rear ends. If you have anything call or text me at 870-362-0013 Thanks, TJ