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Vmac3

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Everything posted by Vmac3

  1. Both cup styles are crap. One worse than the other. Their new common rail engines still have cup issues. And lets not forget about their ishifts. V
  2. Nothing was good about these stealth brakes. Sorry to be negative on this.. These were always disconnected. V
  3. You will need to connect the Eaton and Mack service software to see what electronic issues you may be having. Check the battery connections at the battery, make sure that they are clean and tight, I think this is a good place to start. V
  4. In North America, the copper injector cups were replaced with steel cups because apparently they were to solve the issues with combustion gases passing the cup. I say apparently because this did not eliminate the issue. The graphite paste was used with the steel cups and the washer with the plastic coating was used with the copper cups. These can not be interchanged because the injectors are physically different. V
  5. May want to check for rodents that may have found a place to live in or on the truck someplace. I had an LE with a rats nest inside the center console and that they chewed their way through and made a comfy home for themselves. V
  6. Hello everyone, Here is a copy and paste from the Mack ASET AI/AMI engine manual. If this procedure is deviated then severe engine damage will occur. I highly recommend that you have someone that is qualified to perform this task. This engine that you have is equipped with ceramic lifters. If those Jake heads are removed and not installed correctly or if those pushrods are not seated in the rockers then you may break a lifter. V Valve Lash Adjustment Procedure for Jacobs Equipped Engines Mack ASET AI.pdf
  7. That is a switch that is normally open or closed. When the water temp reaches a certain value then it opens or closes to supply a ground or removing it These were usually to control fan clutch operation as mentioned before. Also there is a 135A ground circuit breaker by the wiper motor, make sure it is clean and nor corrosion. V
  8. Try supplying air pressure directly to the fan air supply and see what happens. Most times the friction material on the clutch wears out. mechohaulic is correct saying that the air solenoid energizes to supply air to engage the fan clutch, this is a fail safe when it loses power or ground. I will also try and dig up a wiring diagram. V
  9. Took me 2 flippin days to find this part number. Here you go Part#20559022 Air Temperature/Humidity Sensor V
  10. Here are some bulletins that were released for fuel leaking past the lower o-ring and updated transfer pumps and fuel return check valves. V sb221028.pdfsb221038.pdf
  11. That oil leak can be leaking from the fuel return jumper tube between the cylinder heads. Also these etech engines had a stumble at idle when they got hot especially when coming off the highway. There were engine datafiles that "supposedly" corrected this condition but I personally never saw it. I'm not sure if this is what you are experiencing and I don't want you going down a rabbit hole here but this simple check will explain some things. If you squeeze the fuel return line from the cylinder block a little and notice the idle stabilizing then the fuel pressure is set too low to make the EUPs happy. The issue with this is that you may have fuel leaking past the bottom EUP O-ring into the cylinder crankcase. Let us know what you find and maybe we can help out some more. V
  12. I had a ring gear slip on a 2000 CL713. I removed both cam and crank sensor and rotated the engine until the missing tooth lined up with the hole on the flywheel housing. Used a mirror to locate the cam and the 2 holes that are drilled in the cam gear. Timing was not set. I am not sure if its even possible on a RD or RB because of the rad being so close. hopefully its a broken wire. There is a clamp that secures the engine RPM sensor wiring above the starter. The wiring may have rubbed through there. Great info here fellas. V
  13. I have been monitoring this thread and I didn't want to add anything else as there was a lot of good info here. Just curious, you said that you disconnected the engine ecu plug and checked it. Since you disconnected the engine ecu plug and reinstalled it, did the fault return? V
  14. Which FMI are you seeing on the fault? This will tell us what issue you are having (electrical or mechanical). What type of transmission is installed on this unit? Need a little more information. There is a bulk head connector on top of the transmission where the speed sensor wires pass through and sometimes that connector does come partially loose. Make sure that connector is tight. Is the transmission output yoke tight? Is the Tone ring on the transmission yoke tight? Remove the sensor and pry on the tone ring and see if it spins, if it does then the yoke is loose. How was the sensor adjusted? Spin the sensor on until it contacts the tone ring and back it off 3/4 of a turn. This fault will not go away until the truck is driven once the correct repair is done. Let us know what you find or have done. V
  15. It may also be the clutch actuator that is acting up. I hope you have warranty on this transmission. More failures to come. V
  16. Sorry about that, I was thinking about the mp powered vehicles where it would log a circuit fault.
  17. Try unplugging the coolant level sensor, and see if the truck stays running. V
  18. Yes are absolutely correct, but we already have low fuel pressure to begin with. The poster already mentioned that they checked all basics. So I don't see as to why the poster would have to check it under load to reconfirm that there is low fuel pressure. The only other thing is to bypass the complete fuel system and run the fuel system in a bucket straight from the transfer pump. If the pressure doesn't go up then we can confirm that the lift pump is defective. V V
  19. The specifications that I gave were, no load idle and rated speed. These specs are published by Mack for this model year. V
  20. Have you replaced the fuel filters?. If you have make sure there is no junk in the fuel tanks. Squeeze the return line from the pump to the tank and see if the pressure goes up. If it does then it may be a fuel return check valve. If not then the fuel pump may be no good. V
  21. That is a very reliable engine. Don't expect the truck to be a rocket, but it is very good. V
  22. Oh shoot. I just noticed the stop lever on one of the other pics. That engine is an E7 mechanical. Fuel pressure should be 23-39 psi. My apologies. V
  23. May be a governor setting. I would hook up the service software and check to see if the gov is set to min/max rather than all speed. V
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