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Licensed to kill

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by Licensed to kill

  1. True but will only be an issue if using the rear from the CH as the locating dowel pins would need to be moved inboard. If just using the suspension and putting the original diff under it, shouldn't cause any issues in that regard.
  2. Yes I did remove the pedal from the shaft to powder coat it. However, the only way that reorienting the pedal lever to make it contact the clutch lever would be to rotate everything forward so the levers are nearly horizontal (or at least on a 45) and the clutch leer would hit the bell housing. I am pretty sure that they are su[posed to be vertical when at rest. I wonder if there was a change up to these levers later in production to shorter ones?. My trucks are all pre-1960 and I have no idea what year the clutch lever is. If there was a change, the first 4 digits of the casting numbers were the same and I don't know how likely that would be.
  3. I am not sure I follow but both levers are pretty much vertical and the one on the pedal shaft is keyed so it can only be installed in one position.
  4. Here is the pic. 3” too long might have been overly pessimistic , 2” more reasonable but still, the entire pad that the roller is supposed to engage is above the roller. Thankfully, yes, the cab is off.
  5. That is a valid question. I am using the original trans that came in the truck (triplex) and the original mounts. The motor is different but the same (E-6 in place of the 673). The lever for the clutch pedal actually came out of another B-61 and the lever that I was initially questioning came from another B-61 from a guy that has several and is restoring one of his own. Based on the casting number, comparing it to what is left of the casting number on the one that came with mu truck, and now with the measurement Larry gave me, I am confident that it is correct so that leaves the lever on the pedal shaft. I took a pic but, of course my computer won't let me download pics from my phone these days. Basically, the "pad" that the ruler on the trans lever engages is fully above the roller so the pedal lever appears to be too long by +-3".
  6. Thank you Larry. Much appreciated. That is what mine is also. My problem must be with the other lever on the clutch pedal shaft. This has me REALLY baffled since al the parts I have came of a B-61 and I am using the same transmission and same clutch pedal arrangement so everything g SHOULD work....but it doesn't. In. your picture, it looks lie the lever on the clutch shaft is rather short, MUCH shorter than the one I took out of one of my trucks. I will put it all back together and post a pic. Hopefully someone will recognize what the problem is.
  7. No hurry. If it is easy to see, a rough measurement from the shaft centre to the roller centre would be helpful. Doesn't have to be exact. Thanks
  8. I fond myself lacking the clutch linkage for the stock triplex when I switched out the maxi torque trans. I was able to locate two of the three pieces but was still in need of the lever that goes on the trans cross shaft that has the roller on it. I found one and had the guy send it to me and when I received it, it looked awfully short but it apparently came from a B-61 so I figured "OK". Well, today I got around to powder coating the lever and installing the linkage and, you, it's too short by about an inch. The casting # is "4RU2158" what is left of the casting number on the one that I had (and modified to use with the maxi torque) is "4RU2_____" so I "assumed" that it was the same but apparently not. Does anyone know if there was more than one clutch linkage configuration or why this piece is not working or have a proper one that they would part with?
  9. Don't know much about photography so maybe this is not unusual but it seems to me that the shutter speed (or whatever you call it with digital cameras) was quite fast as it captured the propeller as if it is stationary. Maybe this is just how fast all digital cameras take a "frame" but I don't recall even seeing that before.
  10. The nice thing about that is then you KNOW what you have.
  11. Excellent point. I had forgotten about that as I changed out the diff as well to one with a MUCH faster ratio.
  12. Would that not be dependant on how much weight one intends to pull with it?. Fortunately, the triple countershaft 6 speeds should be easy to source and cheap to acquire so if that is a concern, should be easy to just go that route.
  13. Personally, I would never consider running that trans without pulling completely apart and, at the VERY least inspecting if not just outright changing all the bearings. The comment was made that those tranny's are not made for the HP that the E-6 produces and that is correct. However, unless you intend to pull HEAVY loads or maybe race it in the 1/4 mile, it shouldn't matter. I would think that a good, serviceable duplex should be easy to find and cheaper to buy than rebuilding what you have. If you DO Intend to pull relatively heavy loads, heavy enough that you want a dual disk clutch, being a 283, that engine should be a Maxidyne (EM-283) and if so, a 6 speed Maxitorque was designed for the torque curve generated by that engine and should also be relatively easy and inexpensive to find. I have all that stuff, twin stick 6 speed, dual disk clutch assembly and bell crank setup for converting the linkage BUT, the shipping would probably be pretty steep and then there is crossing the boarder from Canada which may, or may not create issues (it SHOULDN'T but we are taking about Govt so). Kinda too bad, if you WERE interested, I just came back from Oklahoma and could have taken it with me and shipped it from there. BTW, I also have a duplex to sell but again, shipping would be prohibitive and I don't think you would have any trouble finding either a duplex OR a 6spd Maxitorque either locally or at least relatively close. They are fairly plentiful. Also, I]the reason I am suggesting a duplex rather than a triplex or quadplex should you search out a replacement is that, with the Maxitorque engine you don't NEED 15 speeds of the triplex, you don't really NEED the 10 speeds of the duplex, the engine was designed to run with 6 speeds (5 actually). Well, that is all that I think I know but I am a neophyte when to come to these Marks so I am not guaranteeing anything I had said to be "gospel", just what I have gathered in my recent and ongoing B-61 engine swap journey. All just opinions and worth exactly what you paid for it (maybe less) LOL.
  14. Having just put an E-6 350 (1980 production) in a B-61, this is what I have found out in my case. Engine bolted right up to the triplex. The flywheel/clutch assembly from the 673 bolted right up to the E-6. This is what you want as the B-61 uses a push clutch and the Maxitorque that would have been behind that 283 would have a pull clutch. Unless you intend to pull super B's, IMO it is not worth the hassle making/modifying the clutch linkage to work to gain the duel disk pull clutch (I did that also) but, if you do intend to pull heavy loads and ant the dual disk, it can be done with a bell crank assembly I should have all the parts that I made for one before switching back the the triplex and single disk clutch if you are interested. Front engine mount that came with the truck on the 673 goes right on the E-6 front cover soothing to worry about/do there. As someone mentioned, You need the short shaft water pump and balancer of the 673, they both bolt right on the E-6. IOW, it is about as bolt in as you will ever see when switching series'. edit - P.S. just went back and looked at your pics again and remembered that the fuel filter will have to be moved, it will not fit between the frame rail. Also, if that engine has the long shaft water pump (which is likely) you will have to do something to move the alternator back an inch (or so) as well. In my case, I can't use the mount from the original engine as it is for a generator, not an alternator so I am going to just make a new mount, copy the one that came on the E-6 just move the tabs back to where they need to be. .
  15. That looks like the aforementioned 673E that I took out of one of my B-61's as it has the starter high on the drivers side (like an E-6) as opposed to low on the drinkers side like the 673 in the other B-61's that I have.
  16. There is no question (in my mind) that there is someone out there that would want it. The problem is always transport with things like this. I have an engine (673E IIRC) that was reported to be a fresh rebuild (from a LONG time ago) with few miles on it that I don't need out if one of my B-61's. I have yet to start it (but will some day) but even if it starts and runs perfect, I still have no use for it and, while it may be just what someone needs, to ship it anywhere would probably cost more than its worth, not unlike to couple B-61 diffs I have. Hopefully someone can be found within "come and get it" range that can use it should the decision be finalized to go a different route. Big, heavy parts are like real-estate, location, location, location.
  17. He was already disgusted 50 years ago but at least had HOPE that all could be corrected. Unfortunately all hope is LONG gone. The United States of America is in a steep dive and is way too close to the ground for ANYONE to pull out of it. It is not a question of IF the USA will crash and burn, it is simply a question of when and even that is not much in question by those that know how world finance works. FWIW, Canada is riding in the back of the plane. P.S. Merry Christmas
  18. Perhaps this is a good place for this EXTREMELY powerful monologue (IMO)
  19. Pretty straight forward actually. When the plants disappear, the herbivores disappear. When the herbivores disappear, the carnivores disappear. The only life left on earth will be in the ocean because, without CO2, NOTHING. survives topside.
  20. Looks like Scania and MANN hit the ball, Ford just went to where it landed and picked it up.
  21. True. I had a couple round aluminum tanks made for my B-61 and the price was pretty much the same after dollar exchange and such as the new squares offered by Watts other than shipping.
  22. They appear to be known for rusting out along the bottom back of the cab so that is the first place to look. However, in my limited experience having fooled around with 4 of these cabs now, another place to look is the bracket that bolts to the lower rear portion of the fenders (just in front of the fuel tank). The bracket itself is fairly robust (about 1/8" thick) but the part of the cab that it bolts to is made of sheet metal and appears to be prone to rusting out. Of the 4 cabs that I have one was in pretty good shape there and the other 3 were all rusted out. It is not an obvious place to look and is a bitch to access in order to fix.
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