Licensed to kill

Just did. Will try to get the pages I need printed. Thanks.

Yes there are shims under the bearing covers. I removed some to get to .002 endplay, will remove another to get to the prescribed preload. This will be a different adventure for me as I have never played with a trans much before in fact only once when I tore the 3spd from my model A down. Just a LITTLE bit different than these. This measuring torque to determine preload is also something new for me. The only time I recall setting preload is on wheel bearing and, IIRC, I torque them to 200ft lbs, turn the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen them off and torque to 50ft lbs for proper preload. Something like that anyways. I will check the end play on the main shaft and the lash on the gears today, if they are out of spec I will require guidance to make the necessary adjustments.

Had not noticed the endplay spec for the main shaft but, then again incas focusing on the countershaft. After reading your post it took me awhile to FIND J&K in the drawing, again, I was focusing in the wrong place, the main box rather than the aux box but I did eventually find it. I will check that out as well. Thanks for the heads up. I am finding the figures in the drawing hard to read on my screen (and I have a rather large screen) but if I look long enough I can make it out.

So the .027 of end play was a bit "out of spec" 😂. Good thing Terry suggested checking it or I would have just put it in.

Soooooo, I was unable to get the dial indicator set back up after removing the shims to check So I removed .0265 in shims and reassembles with three bolts and was just enough lash that is barely noticeable that I will call .001-.002. However, according to the diagram posted by doubleclutchinweasl, unless I misunderstand it, it shows that there should be no end play but, rather, a preload. I know this was discussed in earlier posts was was never able to understand what the end consensus was. I am set up to paint the aux box right now but, if I understand that preload thing correctly, in that it requires preload, not end play, I can readjust that after (once I procure a fish scale). I was going to ask about the gear backlash but see it is to be .002 - .012 so I will check that also and if it is out of spec will be back to ask how to adjust that. Thanks to all for the help.

Yes the rear cover is flush so, if both shafts work in tandem then the adjustment should be able to be made from either end. That being confirmed, I will do my adjusting from the back. Don't want to sound like a dimwit by repeating stuff, just want to make sure I understand correctly. I will go out and see what I can accomplish and report back.

Agreed, back when a trucker was a TRUCKER, no PS, no AC, no air ride, no power, twin sticks double clutching every gear. My dad started hauling logs on the west coast in the mid 60's, this truck, IIRC had a 275 cummins, 5&4 but then got a "big power" transplant...... a 315 cummins. He had to have his hip replaced I think in the early 2000's and the surgeon looked at the X-rays and said "Truck driver eh?". Dad said "yes, how did you know that?", doctor, "the way your left hip is wore out is common among ling time drivers that double clutch every gear. I remember dad saying once he thought he would count his shifts on a trip, stopped counting at 200 and IIRC he was still on the way IN. More power reduces that number considerably, especially when driving west coast logging roads.

Finally found the time to flush out the trans case and check the counter shaft end play. .027, a bit much I'm thinkin'. So, to take upon that slack I remove the front counter shaft cover and remove shims until I get to....what.....002 -.005 ???. The cover is recessed so using a feeler gauge like Vlad suggested would be difficult so thinking I can measure the shim pack with a micrometer, subtract .025 and try that. Thoughts before I go forward?. If I do this it should be set for both counter shafts (main and aux boxes) IIUC.

I like power. IMO a vehicle is like a knife. You are less likely to cut yourself with a sharp knife because it takes less effort which give you more control of it. More power allows you to have more control, particularly in mishap avoidance. Of course, in the wrong hands and/or used improperly, both a sharp knife and a powerful vehicle can be a menace. My Pete came with a 475HP C-15 which is sufficient for what I do as I am relatively light weight, my max weight being around 42MT (92,000 LBS). Nonetheless I had it flashed to 680HP. I would like more but any more and fuel economy starts to suffer. For the record, I don't drive fast. That is not why I increased the power. I keep to 100KMH (62MPH) even when the speed limit is 110KPH because tires are designed to run at 60MPH max and if you exceed that, they wear exponentially AND increased speed requires more braking. Added weight increases braking distance in a linear fashion (double weight, double braking distance), increase SPEED and you increase braking distance by a factor or 2 (double speed QUADRUPLE braking distance). BTW, IMO, service brakes are for emergencies, engine brakes are for slowing/stopping. While I am not OTR and don't put on anywhere NEAR the miles of the highway guys, in the 18 years that I have been driving trucks, I have yet to wear out a set of brakes and I doubt I ever will but I only have less than 500,000KM on my 2005 Pete (300,000 miles) and still have original brakes and they are in very good shape yet. All "small potatoes" compared to the guy that flashed my ECM. HE is a power junkie. He ran a '98 Pete (IIRC) with a C-16 that puts 1500HP to the ground on the dyno and always wants more. That was back in '09 when I had mine done, don't know what he runs now.

Looking for the lever that goes on the transmission shaft to interact with the lever on the clutch pedal shaft for my B-61.

Should be an aluminum plate behind the injection pump riveted to the block with all ID info on it. Little hard to see but with a bright flashlight you should be able to read it. Otherwise, the engine block ID is stamped into the flange where the front cover bolts on right in front of the injection pump. I you have trouble finding it I can post a pic.

Just covering as many bases as I can think of, ran the numbers on the gear ratios in the triplex that I intend to put behind the E-6 350 (2Valve) and the RPM drop is pretty constant +-250 between gears. From what I have gathered on the power range of the econodyne 350, thinking that shifting @ around 1700, dropping to 1450 should keep this motor in it's "sweet spot" where it should pull well, not lug, and get as good economy as possible, unless my info is incorrect. Perhaps even 100-200RPM lower if bobtailing. I understand that the triplex is not really made for the kind of power the 350 puts out but don't intend to pull anything heavy, at the MOST maybe 20,000 pounds but more likely much less. The plan is to only pull a holiday trailer. Any thoughts/advice is much appreciated whether it is "sounds like a good plan" or "yeah, that's not going to work well because......." or "OK but be careful about......" or "make sure to check...............first". Truck is a LOT of work and $ and I want to have as much info as possible to make sure I don't get something all wrong. BTW, the clutch from the triplex looks pretty good, single disk push to release. Not sure yet if the pressure plate bolts up to the flywheel on the E-6.

Opened up the top of both boxes on the triplex and everything looks good. No rust, all the gears look nice and everything turns nice and smooth just needs a good flush. Will check the end play on the counter shaft and shim accordingly if required and cross my fingers that it will be good I guess.

Trans is not in the truck. In fact, I just retrieved it and brought it into the shop and power washed it. I don't think going through the pto cover will work well as, being an aluminum case, mag base on the dial indicator won't work so well 😁. The rear box is cast iron, looks "HEAVY". Would like to remove it to see what is inside condition wise but will have to figure out how I want to do that without dropping it on my foot or something along those lines. Will be opening up the top for sure to have a look. One PTO cover was missing and I removed the other to blow all the gunk out of the case through the two openings, came nice and clean and the gears that are visible looks nice and clean also. Sprayed everything I could see down with WD-40 to displace the water and prevent flash rusting. SOOOOO, If I understand correctly, I can remove the rear counter shaft cover and check the play there??.....still by prying back and forth on a gear through the PTO hole?. Counter shaft held in at the back with a snap ring or........?

Just to be clear, could you walk me through how exactly the end play shouldn be measured through the PTO hole?. Specifically, how/where to set the dial indicator and how to move the shaft fore and aft to find the play.

What should the end play be?

I talked to the guy that used to own a dealership and was a Mack mechanic and he said that I can just take the bolts off the rear box and it comes right off. I will also open up the top and look inside. I looked in the side cover hole and while there is gunk in the bottom of the box, the gears look good from what I can see. I was/am concerned as the PTO cover was missing and there was a mouse nest in the trans when I got it, been open like that for about 30 years. With the bottom gears looking good from the PTO opening, I am encouraged that the rest might be good but we will see. So, checking end play, is that done just on the gear and can that be done with the rear box removed out have to be done before removing it?.

Thanks Terry. found the ID in the triplex (TRTL72) but nothing on the duplex. Ran the numbers and the ratios in the triplex will work if it is in good shape. Will pull it apart in the next few days and check it out.

I have a duplex and a triplex trans and am trying to identify which models they are. Not finding anything on either that corresponds to the model numbers I have found online. Anyone know where to look and what to look for?.

I don't know if I would count on that happening. From my experience (limited as it may be) the frame on the B is narrower than any relatively modern truck (I THINK all modern trucks use the same width since diffs appear all interchangeable between makes/models) and if you were fortunate enough to find one the correct width, the steering arm would likely be different and probably give you grief. That would be manageable but just another "issue". I bought a few parts from a guy the other day and he has 5 B's in his yard and 3 of them had budds. Thought that unusual but shows that they ARE out there.

Interesting discussion. I CAN answer this question though, For me, life is too short to drive an ugly truck and Dayton's are UGLY (with the exception of tube type 10.00 20's and steers with SS hub covers, think B-61 and only then when the rim is chromed). You mentioned resale value. I'm thinking resale on a truck with Dayton's would be considerable less than the same truck with aluminum budds. This like you that p[refer Dayton's are few and far between I suspect so finding a buyer that "appreciates" Dayton's might be a challenge. Ease of Changing tires??, I don;t know about that. I had a trailer with Dayton's and it was a PITA to the point that if I had to have tire work done I took it to a tire shop. To be fair, these were 17.5" rims with the 3 spoke, 6 stud rims, not 22.5's or 24.5's. I have heard guys say "Chrome don't get you home" and other such sayings. However, I know for me, if I was to hire a truck and there was two operations bidding and one had chromed and polished Pete's and the other had plain. trucks with daytons and rarely washed I would hire the shiny truck every time. I have had guys hire me and tell me that "anyone that looks after their equipment like you will more likely do a good job" so, while "chrome won't get you home" it can get you more work and usually BETTER work IMO. In the end, there is no right or wrong answer. To each his own, if someone is happy running equipment that I would be reluctant to, more power to them. Some here would probably cringe if I posted how much I spent last winter getting all the aluminum and SS polished on jy Pete and that is OK, I promise not to send them the bill. 😁

If I had gone with the triplex would have save a PILE of work/problems but was warned about their durability with anything like what I am running for an engine. I would have to change out the clutch but don't know about the flywheel. At this point a 12 would be a nicer choice if I can get one at no cost, otherwise will seriously consider a triplex, Maybe take the one I have apart to see of it is/can be made any good. Have my doubts as it was missing the side plate and was full of mouse nest. . Already have WAY too much money in this to be buying another trans. The guy I got this motor/trans from might have a 12 and MIGHT trade me straight across (maybe not) but have not been able to get ahold of him yet. He might also have a good triplex but I know he has scraped them in the past so may not have one.

I considered that. I have a tri-plex but don't think it is any good and I have a duplex that might be good. For what I am doing I don't think it would be a problem even behind the 350 but have already changed everything over to accept the newer type trans (assuming "HOPING" that the 12 speed is a direct drop in from the TRXL1070 6 speed). Then again, if I went back to the 2-3-4plex, I should be able to go back to the factory B-61 trans mounts/clutch linkage etc. Just investigating my options. Don't expect to pull more than maybe 25,000 pounds MAX but more likely <20,000 pounds or even <12,000 ponds. Don't want to go to all this effort then be limited to what I MAY want to do with it down the road.

I was wondering if they made one with no air shift at all. It appears not but that is OK was just wondering.

That is the shifting diagram that I found online as well and took the left diagram to suggest that they DO come in a twin stick but then looked at that diagram and went, "WTF, where is reverse???". That left me wondering what that diagram even means. UPDATE, so in an effort to find the gear ratios for the TRTXL 107 (direct) I found that the diagram on the left shows the deep reduction on a second stick while, as I now understand it the 1070 (OD) trans had the deep reduction on the dash (air) so both versions used air splitter on the stick.