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Straydog954

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Posts posted by Straydog954

  1. Which is a better engine? An AMI-370 with the modifications done to it (manifold,turbo, injectors, 5” exh.) or a stock 04 epa MP7? Application would be on/off road dump truck. Would mpg be roughly the same ? Why do the older e7 engines get better mpg compared to one of these two engines?

  2. Hi I have a 96 RD that I’m installing a 12 speed in. The truck was born without an air dryer. The transmission has its own little spin on filter where the air line comes into it. My question is whether or not I need to install an air dryer on this truck or is the transmission filter sufficient? The truck is never run in the winter. 

  3. 5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

    Yes. However there is a spec for re- use.. 

    I’m going with a high volume pump because I’m adding a Jake to this engine. I can go Remack or new PAI? Any difference here? Remack would be less money

  4. 14 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

    Well Straydog,  I appreciate the fact that you want to get it re-built..  Please make sure the shop knows how to do Mack engines.  especially setting the liners to the correct height.  and ask if they have a counter bore cutter in the case the shelves are pitted out to the edge.  

    Yes sir will do. I’m not going to miss the little extra money spent. Either way I will still be sleeping in the same house and driving the same pickup. May just have to hide the checkbook for a little bit…….

    • Haha 2
  5. I had the same exact problem with my dump truck. Threw a thermostat at it no luck. Took the radiator off and hosed off the fins on both sides and between CAC and  that solved the problem. Keep in mind I run on and off road and in dusty environments tho may not be your case but ez to check. 

    • Like 1
  6. 21 minutes ago, JoeH said:

    What cab is this truck, RD690? You could have a fatigue crack on the charge air cooler, my 95 e7-350 had one running most of the way down the passenger side. My truck made 25 psi ever since we bought it in 2009, ran hot on the pyro too. Last year it started dipping closer to 22 psi max. Found the cracked CAC, put a new one on and now I get 34 psi on a good pull, and cooler pyro temps. Rarely over 900 degrees now.

    Yes 96 RD690. Truck doesn’t have a pyro. but I need to get one. I will have to look for cracks. I also read where you can cap off both ends of CAC and put 20lbs of air or so in it and put it in a tub of water to find any leaks. 

  7. 1 hour ago, fjh said:

    It can contribute! A strong/ fresh    350   25 - 28 psi  /  460  33 - 38 ! If your trailing Smoke under a pull you may have a boost leak, another symptom is if you have a pyrometer it will raise quick! Can't emphasize enough !  You have to take in to account the age and what's worth spending for what your doing! oil is cheap in some ways! 

    just stuff to consider! 

    I hear ya loud n clear. I decide I’m gonna run this thing thru a shop and give it a new set of nutz! Need to work this truck another 10 yrs minimum. Tired of the blow by fumes in the cab. Will repost at a later date with results. Thanks everyone for the posts   

  8. All good tips, thanks. Also does worn rings contribute to lower boost pressure? I can only get like 23 tops and that’s going up a grade with a 20 load workin its ass off. I’ve read about other things posted on this site that causes low boost and I will check those. Seems like people with e7s on here talk about getting 28-30 or more but maybe that’s with larger turbo and injectors etc. 

  9. 11 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

    with a bore mic..  just hone the liners and re-ring your pistons and put them back in..  all of what he (fjh)  said about cost and usage is real time thinking..  he's right..  jojo

    I know you guys are right. That’s why it hasn’t been dropped off at an engine shop somewhere lol. I just need to find a competent person to dig into it. If the heads come off, what spec. am I looking for with the bore mic any idea?

  10. 15 minutes ago, JoeH said:

    How's the frame on the truck? If the frame is rust jacking bad and doesn't have much life then is it worth the fuss other than dumping oil in?

    I have a 1995 e7-350, 24k hours.

    I have noticed on my truck that if I shut it off and give it 5 minutes it'll be a gallon low. If I come back in the AM it'll be at full. Sometimes the truck will "load up" on oil while idling and blow a smelly blue haze, but most of the time it runs clean. Mine also developed some fatigue cracks in the oil pan at the corners. New pan was $2,000, came with pin holes for gasket tabs to push through. Of course the dealer gave me the old style cork gasket, and i didnt know about the rubber gasket so I welded the holes shut...

    What's your engine idle rpm? Over time the setting can dip, and then you aren't idling fast enough to keep the rings sealed well enough on combustion.

    The frame is decent not a lot of jacking, just a little bit in the rear frame area. It was a southern truck originally then spent some time in the mid west where I bought it out of Nebraska. I only run it in the summer as a part time gravel hauler. My truck has also loaded up while idling to the point where it was dripping out of the turbo but then it corrects itself. I’m thinking my truck idles around 600 rpm if im thinking correctly. 

  11. 15 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

    straydog...  did you forget to post something??  jojo

    Not sure. I think I hit the quote button twice when I replied to fjh. He said maybe I could have new rings put in the engine. If I have that done how do I check liner wear?

  12. 5 hours ago, fjh said:

    In my mind its all in what  you intend to do with it! If you intend on keeping it and its a daily work horse then you could spend the bucks! How ever how far does one go with it! ? You can get into this for 30000 K and what is the unit worth? If your mechanically minded You could pull the heads pop out the the pistons re ring it! Economically and pop it back together! that would likely deal with the oil consumption blow by  issue ! how ever you still got to consider how long will the liners last till they leak etc. I could go on and on! Its a catch 22!  How much will insurance pay you if the truck gets wrote off?  if it costs 10 bucks in oil day after day of running add it up! And as Joe mention Skilled labor these days NOT The greatest! 

     

    I hear yah brah. I hate to put 30k into a truck I paid 20k for and put 3-5,000 miles on per year. It’s a part time haul truck. I do like the ruggedness, simplicity and reliability of this truck you can’t beat it. If it was a daily workhorse it would be a no brainer like you said. If I have it ringed, how do I tell if the liners are still good and not worn out? Is there a measurement spec or how do you tell?

     

     

     

     

  13. 1 hour ago, Mark T said:

    Might sound silly, but maybe a good tune up with some new injectors ?  Some good quality engine oil. Might slow the aging process a little.

    Yah I’ve never had anybody touch anything on the engine or had anything done to the injectors and I’ve put 20k miles on it. I use Shell Rotella oil. It’s always used the same amount of oil since I’ve run it. Maybe a valve adjustment, injectors would be good. 

    • Like 1
  14. These are the ideas that I’m looking for. All I really know how to do is change fluids and filters etc. I have self diagnosed all small problems with this truck by replies from guys like you on this website. Have never had to go to the dealer yet lol. It would be nice to figure out why I’m using oil before I just drop it off at an engine rebuild shop. I’ve read worn valve seals or valve guides as a possibility also. Maybe that would be the easiest thing to go after first?

     

     

  15. Oh sorry I should have added more. It has a fair amount of blow by but is not puffing hard like a freight train. From what I recall oil pressure is around 15 at idle and 60 on the high end. Truck was bought used and I found a service record at Mack that truck had rods and mains done at appx 180k due to a strange noise. I see a remack sticker on one of the heads and assume maybe both have been replaced judging by the paint looking the same. I found the serial number on the block and it matches the serial number on build sheet from Mack museum so original block. Sometimes I will see blue exhaust at idle but most times it’s clear. Sometimes it will use a gallon of oil a day other times I can make several hauls and oil level does not move. Slight leak around pan, no dripping leaks. Took off turbo (reman) and took it to a shop they said it was tight and not the problem. I did notice exhaust ports seemed damp inside.  On a few occasions while idling the engine was puking oil out between the turbo and exhaust pipe. Wonder if it has worn rings and liners? I really appreciate all of your help. 

  16. I have an em7-300 mechanical in a dump truck that has 470k miles and high hours 28k or more. It seems to start fairly easy in cold weather and runs nice but uses a lot of oil. Should I assume that it’s time for a rebuild? What is the easiest way for me to tell? Would taking off the heads and looking at the cylinders be a good start or is this wasting time because of the inevitable?

  17. Hello does anybody know if there is a gasket kit for this transmission and if so what is the part number? Looking to replace all external gaskets such as the covers etc. and didn’t know if I had to purchase each separately. I do have a part number for an O ring kit so far. 

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