fuzzy buzzard

Talked to a right intelligent guy at Rostra today, Felix (800-343-1382). He went over how this job could be pulled off - magnets on drive shaft for VSS (used this idea on 76 Ford years ago and working real good), clutch pedal disengagement switch, may have to use relay on brake circuit because of LED tail lights and trailer brake controller, servo can handle 2 5/8" of throttle linkage movement, servo has 39" of cable so servo can be mounted away from heat sources and alternator. He seemed to be up on his knowledge so I ordered kit, $355 plus shipping. Give me a couple of weeks to get installed and I'll holler back with update.

It's got the throttle cable but going 80 downhill in a 65 cause you was listening to bluegrass ain't cool ! Hard to explain with windows rolled up, jacket on, smoking a cigar and a ice scrapper in hand on a 95 degree day..

Thinking serious about cruise control on old Mack.  I know Freightrain put it on his but that company went out of business. The Rostra Company came up on my first search. Did a bunch of reading, sounds interesting. They have lots of options for switches and vehicle speed sensors, etc.

Question is - any ya'll had any dealings with this company? Got any other suggestions? Yep, I know I'm getting lazy - but since I got the steering straighten out, now I have time to look out the side windows!

Any and all comments welcome  

Get serial number and send in to B Model Registry.

Did a 300 plus have a tip turbine? 285 did, correct?

Look at the B Model Registry on this site. There is a ton of info there including diagrams for SPS that are positive or negative ground.  

Thanks for sending your serial number in for the B Model Registry. I do an update in November each year, so your number will show up then. That is a fine looking little dump! You are in the right place for help, there are more answers in this group than you can ask questions.

Keep us posted on pictures

May not be 5th one built but it is the 5th one ordered

My old Draggin Wagon never knew where straight ahead was although there was no slop in steering . I installed 2 steer stabilizers and I don't remember where they came from - Rough Country maybe. They seemed to help slightly. Later I started playing with castor settings and that helped a bunch more.

Measure total travel of tie rod from full right to full left. Google steer stabilizers, call , tell them you want 2 of the biggest baddest stabilizers with the travel you need. When you receive them the fun is just starting - figuring out how the hell to mount them! Good luck  

Larry,

Got word other day that Buckeye Vintage Haulers show has been cancelled also. And just as I have been busting ass on the A/C in the ole Draggin' Wagon.

When the ice cold air starts flowing, guess I will just ride around the state with windows rolled up and my Harley jacket on

Sold today

My theory -your truck, as long as I don't get any of the bills, you do as you please. I always enjoy the back yard engineering that goes in to these modifications. More power to you man!!

Parting out a 1970 Massey Ferguson 135  tractor, gas engine, manual steering, diff lock, no multi-power, missing grille and nose piece, 2100 hours showing.  Located in SE Ohio. No shipping - you come and get.

Thanks Paul. I looked at pictures again and I don't think this is on them. Sent note to owner to check for sure.

Steer axle update - remember I made new spacers to go between front axle and springs. They were made with 5 degree taper between top and bottom. This modification seemed to help steering a bunch as I didn't have to chase it so much. Today me and son sat down with trammel points to check toe-in. Turns out it was toed in 3/8", a might too much. We set it 0-1/16" toed in. Man what a difference this made - I can look out the side window now - I'll be taking pictures just like Other Dog does! Twenty years of chasing this old thing and it just needed more caster and good alignment. Think I might put 2 degrees more in it sometime just to see how it acts. But for now, the next hot topic is installing A/C. I have a new Red Dot Back Wall Unit to set between the seats. Thinking about putting condenser under bunk like Freightrain. Hoping to get ice cubes spewing out on 95 degree days.  

Remember to send serial number in to B Model Registry to get you on the list. Next up date will be end of this year.

Just finished a 3 hour job on the lathe, well, it's time for supper. Hell, I can't move - knees and hips locked up. Finally got feet moving a bit, kept working at it and finally got to shop door. Locked door - oh crap, it's all uphill to the house! A bit late for supper - that was a long slow trip. Good thing is, if I wake up in the morning, I'm going to do it all over again.  

Toe was set by alignment shop last trip. Lord only knows what it was set at, - there is a different crew in there every time I stop in with other trucks. Number one son spent number of years with Thomas Bus dealership, always bunch of steering recalls. He built set of trammel points for toe so my next move is get on smooth level surface (which ain't anywhere on Ignorant Ridge) and set toe.

May different ideas on toe-in with radial tires. I'm inclined to set at zero unless someone here changes my mind so let's hear your ideas !!

Thanks,

FuzzyBuzzard said that    5-5-2-2 (that's a WV 10-4)  

I have to constantly chase the steering out on the road. Get on a skinny 2 lane and I got my hands full. New king pins, tie rod ends, drag link tight, second set of new radial tires; then added Sheppard p/s (model 49) and problem is amplified because the Sheppard box is so slow and too easy to turn. There is almost no free play in box, truck been to front end shop twice. Got to reading R model front axle book - R with manual steer 1 1/2 - 3 degrees castor and R with Sheppard 4-6 degrees castor. I added 3 degrees and seemed to help (couldn't add any more, it was pulling center bolt out too far). Then replaced spacer between axle and spring with one that I machined 5 degrees into it. This seemed to help a little more. I could add 2-3 degrees more. I am slowly sneaking up on the cure - hard to check out seat covers when it won't stay  where I put it (the truck that is!). Any suggestions - I'm all ears

Guess my memory ain't so good after all. Got thrust bearings out today and they were ball bearings. And they were not too awful bad. The Moog Kit 8482B is the correct kit for this axle. So I don't really expect a large improvement in steering quality but I got fresh packed wheels bearing

Interesting - I kinda thought the orginal thrust bearings where rollers. Bearings in this pin set are ball. Reason there were no bearings in first set installed - my parts man had to order all the components separately as Mack no longer had the set complete.  

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Rob,

The FA511 was in an H67 that Carl owns. He had found a king pin set which he did not use. We compared dimensions on king pin and bottom plug. They all matched up with my FA505 axle. 20 years ago I put king pins in my axle BUT could not find thrust bearings and I have always felt this was causing a lot of my crazy steering problems. Carl's pin set had thrust bearing and since bottom plug and pin dimensions match, I am hoping thrust bearing are same. Will find out in morning - the old draggin' wagon comes apart in morning. Will update tomorrow night.