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LilMartian

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Posts posted by LilMartian

  1. On 1/18/2019 at 2:30 AM, Swishy said:

    Sorry BullHeded

    I mist your Q:?

    we get 6t on steer

    18.5t on any bogie/tandem

    25t on tri

    all under permit to carry one indivisiable item etc

    it helps by have n a short WB to negotiate the stupid roundabouts, speed humps n crap they put on the roads

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    cya

    Ooohhh, damn, can I come play !!!! Please!!!! I love the old ones !!!!

    oh , by the way y’all(yes, I said it) I also worked for the first western star dealer in Alabama. Love the old ones, wish I could work on the newer ones, not allowed on the property of the star dealer now, lol!!!

    long story that had to do with an old kenworth cabin over and a 350 small cam Cummins!!!!

  2. ASET 460hp if has egr cooler and Vgt turbo is an ASET commercial meaning a highway application engine. If it has a straight turbo, which if 2005 should be an ASET AC, will be a ccrs type etech, most likely the AC. As joe suggested, look on the front v/c and data plate reveals all. 

  3. Is the shutdown lamp coming on? Red circle with an X in middle, when it does it and may want to make sure it works. Usually 3 Amin shutdown causes are oil pressure, coolant level and temp if turned on. Have seen oil pressure sensors cause the problems and with an rd, the gauge is mechanical with an extra oil psi sensor for the ecm, located on top or side of oil filter housing or stand. What you can try is, unplug the oil psi sensor when it starts to do this, changes the code from a mechanical problem to an electrical and will cause a shut down, but most of the time it will run for awhile. Also, if male lamp comes on and you can catch it when your not driving, flash code by turning cruise on/off switch off and pushing the set down then up and count how many flashes. Maybe that will help figure out problem for you

  4. Also, if, just on the off chance, you pulled the “y” hose from bottom of the pancake oil cooler, they use a screen inside of it and when you removed and didn’t find that screen, it may have gotten in the lower pipe and could cause same effect as the rag issue. Something else to think about. Small possibility that and if you put it back, the rear water line to air compressor from the back corner of the block could have some blockage due to casing materials. Mackpro can attest to that I sure. There is an old bulletin on it and correction is to move the back water line from corner of block around to the water manifold.  Also, had one that did similar and ended up finding that the water line from the water pump to compressor had pin holes, sucking air in and had collapsed near the fitting at the water pump. Maybe something else to think on

  5. There are lots of places that claim they can do it and I know it can be done, pain is keeping up with whom ever does it to begin with. Check for around northern end of Florida ,( somewhere around the Jacksonville area and can be  found , if googled correctly)and that’s as much as I can say due to the fact that , first , I work for one of those “crappy” dealers you referenced and due to that , I have to limit saying whom, because, I like my job which pays my bills and bosses like to look for ways to slap you around. But I was never hear and didn’t say anything but to tell you that it’s against the law to mess with Mother Nature!!!! ( also maybe a name starting with something like, uuiummmm, southern diag) oooppps, I didn’t say that out loud!!!!😱🤭🤫

  6. Another of my 2 cents for y’all. One of y’all are gonna come and beat me up for getting in y’alls conversations, but here goes on the 460- change it to a 427 hp- (I hear this coming) if you will look at torque spec sheets for 460, you will notice that it doesn’t start to really go up until almost 1600 and around 1680-1700ist it drops, straight down. The pain with the etech programming has been, the lower hP, the longer the torque stays up. Something to think about. Also, I didn’t read deeply into the comments about pyrometer reading high, if it is and you notice coolant temp going up in a hard pull but seems ok most other times, look at your exhaust manifold and turbo exhaust housing, if they have a “velvet” appearance, it is a boost leak and if guys have checked your intake system and say nothing is wrong, ask if was checked with test plumbing on the turbo inlet or just checked the inner cooler/cac/air to air. If only cac was checked , check it plumbed at the inlet of the turbo and this is where y’all are ALL gonna think I don’t know the per  per verbeial but from a hole in the ground, done heard it. If everything is sealed on your intake and I also mean the air compressor inlet, which comes from the back of the intake manifold to compressor, pull the outlet line from the air compressor with pressure on the intake system and see if you have air leaking. Just had to put a compressor on a ‘99 and customer thought I had lost my ever loven mind until we hit the first hill with 92,000 on, not the first one I ever seen. Y’all can throw the tomatoes toward Alabama and NO, I ain’t no damn football fan. Good luck and sorry if I disturbed y’all   

  7. There was a company in Tyler, tx that was repairing vmac ecms and I can’t find number on line now but showing in eBay several m7 modules. Also an option, possible slim one, is check with DEX used parts, this is the Volvo/Mack used parts department. You can find them( I have 2 vmac 2 ecms and nope, don’t ask, one has an rpm issue around 1700, thanks Nick, and the other is my bestest test ecm, sorry) at several bone yards and such. Check with tony at Turbys used truck parts in vina,al. He didn’t have one a week ago but he gets trucks in all the time. Just tell him a Martian sent you. 

  8. Just a stupid question..... WHY??? And when you are talking about a big bore, Cat, Cummins, Detroit??? Unless it was ordered with an MP 7, which it probably has an MP 8, the engine compartment is being squished with the 8 due to engine length and that lovely sloped hood. Truth be told, it could handle an ISX and that’s is crammed. I would love to have seen the cxu chassis with stretched hood and an MP 10 shoved in there, oooo the capabilities, lol!!! Good ole 3406 would be rear purty too, but that went with those beautiful super liners.  Just had to go an pitch 2 more cents in the pile! Have a good time with it.   

  9. Gotcha and by the way, the wastegate part number you want is 172743. If the one you found online is the 171702 p/n, that is a non waste gate turbo. Get your vecu to 12b , 380P4 , which is for throttle response, won’t do anything for engine power but does help somewhat with tps reaction and if the person that is doing the programming is an older Mack “mechanic “, ask him if he knows Mr. Frank in tech support, if so, he might be able to get them to change the engine files as well. ( I didn’t say that out loud) good luck and keep me posted, just curious on how it helps. 

  10. Look on right frame rail, possible just behind shock and on top of rail and if no vin number there Ieft rail, same area. Vins are stamped into one or other frame rail, just so if someone stole the door, lol. You will play havoc trying to find out info by engine serial number 

  11. Yes, check the orings, especially the one you see fuel coming from line, if they haven’t been out since, well, a long time ( sorry,me being a S/A) then pull all of them and reseal, change your oil afterwords and watch it, still does it, check transfer pump and then have someone, ie, pump shop, check the injection pump. You will probably find issue at that one injector.  So you know, injectors torque at 45 ft lb 

  12. Hope you have it fixed by now, if not and you see this, please answer back and I will check the code. If what I think it is, it has to do with the dosing system of your def fluid,but since I’m curious now, will look code up tomorrow and try to put and answer back in, sorry I’m not a computer and I can’t remember all of the code numbers since they keep changing 

  13. That is S 004- fmi 14, which is the left rear( I think left ) wheel speed sensor. If it’s intermittent, quite probable your have a loose wheel nut and allowing hub to move in and out just enough to cause code, check your torque on the wheel nut(s) and might want to pull drum off and check the sensor adjustment, anytime you do brakes, always push the wheel sensors against the tone wheels while you have drums off

  14. If you have ‘09, on your dash, if you have the “basic dash” it will have a small button just below odo, if you have the arm to the right of steering wheel, upgrades dash. To read codes, basic dash(pain in the ass) you have to catch odo reading actual and mash lil black button and hold till dash changes to showing(hopefully) m128, then below write all other numbers down, with “stalk” switch, navigate to diagnostics and you can read codes in there. If you are getting the red circle/X, that’s the shutdown lamp and the 3 main causes and are settings in parameters, are coolant level, oil pressure and coolant temp. By your description, sounds like you possibly have an oil pressure sensor reading low at idle, if it’s an MP7, sensor is located at the front of the oil filter stand, just above the front bypass filter, MP8, oil pressure sensor is located drivers side, to right of engine Ecu and is the top sensor, bottom is crankcase psi sensor, which can cause shutdown, but most of the time when ccs sensor is cause, it will shutdown anytime. Hope that helps

  15. Since it’s an AMI, yes sir and will(if you haven’t already) mount up with no problems, make sure the waste gate works and please let me know how it does with your 370 hp,please, oh please!!!! I know of some ASET AC engines that have been changed a slight bit and that turbo was used, on one perticular one who had been getting passed by a KW CAT3406, the comment that he sent to my buddy in a text was “ HERE KITTY,KITTY !!!!” You may not have the same results as him,but it should help a pretty good bit!!! Good luck

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