JoeH

Knobs are for operating the spring parking brake.   The levers would operate either the trailer service brakes or the tractor service brakes (rear axles only, not steering). These levers are to help maintain control of the vehicle incase of emergency situations such as jack knifing.

It'd be an inversion valve on the intake manifold and a slave cylinder on the front of the fuel pump, but at 2001 they're completely electronic so you don't have a puff limiter.

With turbo you would likely have oily intake pipes between turbo and intake manifold.

Sounds like u have wiring issues.  Light wiring could be bleeding into malfunction circuits.  Turn one light switch on at a time to see which switch circuit is causing the problem. (I'm assuming CH's have multiple light switches)

That'll be shock absorbers most likely. Cab ones, as well as probably the axle shocks.  Worth it to just replace all to save your back. Also check your tire pressures up front, make sure they're the same.

22 hours ago, danny123 said:

I'm guessing changing the shocks maybe improve the ride, they look bad..

It certainly won't hurt; describe what's "rough" about how the granite rides. Knowing how it feels tells us a lot.

I had the dad of a guy I drove for take the front axle shock absorbers off my truck one night without telling me.  After my back was killing me the next day I went into the office (and he was there eating his lunch) I made it pretty clear to leave the old shocks on until he has new ones to put on instead. IDK wtf he was thinking but I was a little pissed. 

Without shock absorbers, springs will continue to bounce for a while after one bump.

You should always tackle audible air leaks as soon as you notice them. An air leak can become serious enough that you lose your ability to regenerate air for your brakes.  Last thing you need is to kill someone because you couldn't stop your truck. A 73,000 lb triaxle vs a 3500 lb car is no joke.

You should find where the air leak is.  My '95 Mack cab airbags hold air for days.

I'm clueless, but someone once told me peterbilt triaxles are typically set up that when you set the parking brake the lift axle comes up?  No idea if that's true/common setup or not.  No Mack I ever drove did that.

Multiple cylinders = more weight. 

For dumping/driving on a sideways incline on an air ride truck, I've wondered about having the air bags being able to be dumped on one side or the other to give it a bias towards staying level.

Where will tilt sensors mount? Ever dump a load with worn out hinges and the load is stuck up in one corner while you're on a sideways incline?

Pretty sure it's the turbo you hear whistling, not the tip turbine.  Tip turbines don't really spin all that fast I don't think.  Not fast enough to make noise at least.  Most Mack turbos have a nice whistle to them, let's you know it's alive and well!  Don't know if this is a new to you truck or one you've had a while now with a new symptom.  

If it's transmission oil it'd probably smell like sulfur/rotten eggs.

Firing orders are generally stamped cast into the block somewhere.

Must have a pretty large air compressor on there to keep up with all those brakes.i wonder how much those loads weigh, and what motors are in them.

Rear main seal would make the inside of the bell housing wet and oily.  If that's dry then it shouldn't be the rear main seal.  Could be oil pan.  How substantial of a leak is it that you can tell it's leaking only when turned off?

Good truck there, Bruce!

It's also very common on dump truck applications for the trolley brake to operate all truck brakes except steering axle.  That's how our triaxles are.

Recent problem or did you just aquire it and you're trying to figure out what's going on?  How's your tractor protection valve?

Do you have your lines hooked up right to the trailer? One is a supply line to the trailer air tanks, the other is a signal line. Sometimes trailers/trucks get the fittings switched up because an idiot worked on it.

Been running our 1979 endt676 on pump diesel since the '80s, now into the ULSD were still running it on pump diesel, we don't add anything, just keeps running strong as ever.  Pushing 600k miles, mostly local within a 15 mile radius. Lots of hours per mile, as it's a volumetric concrete mixer.  Truck averages about 4mpg by the end of the year.  My 1995 E7-350 has about 20,300 hours, same deal, but averages 2.5 mpg or less. (Again, it's a volumetric concrete mixer, so it racks up fuel usage on site)

Many trucks on here are hobby trucks and get minimal use, so I'd recommend an algaecide, but that's about it. If you are having problems with your fuel racks sticking then you aren't using your truck enough.  Algae grows in modern biodiesel, after about a year of sitting you'll have floaties causing fuel clogs.

My 95 e7-350 (all mechanical) tops out at about 25 psi boost. It has trouble getting out of it's own way, but it gets where it's supposed to go. Will make 1200+ degrees EGT, though I try not to push that number.  I just assume it's working as it should....

On 8/2/2020 at 11:01 AM, 90plow said:

I have an eaton8ll in my 2007 Mack granite I recently purchased.  Truck has 212,000 miles and 20,000 hours.  Trans seems fine other than the 5th to 4th drop.   Occasionally the trans misses 4th and seems to be in 8th.  It’s driving me nuts when I’m downshifting loaded.  Some have said the synchros are shot and have suggested just getting a rebuilt trans for 3800 and throwing it in the truck vs. re doing the synchros.

Could it be anything besides synchros?

How intense is the synchro replacement?

 

thanks

Eric

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/transmissions/vehicle-transmissions/8ll/eaton-fuller-havey-duty-transmissions-service-manual-trsm1500-en-us.pdf

Snoop through the table of contents "in vehicle service procedures". Looks like auxiliary section (page 118) can be removed and services in chassis. Then jump to bench procedure section to see how to do rebuild.

2 hours ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Especially on an R model. They were kinda puny in the frame department anyway.

Single frame R's tend to break at the splay under the cab.  I have a '79 that the pass side broke 7+ years ago on, we spliced a used frame section in on that side from behind the cab forward.  Driver side just broke a few months ago, spliced that rail from behind the cab forward from a U model we had laying around.  Truck doesn't have a hard life every day, but we use it just as hard as we need it to.  Both rails have 4ft sister frame sleeves at the splices.

7 hours ago, david wild said:

I thought the e techs replaced the E7 so how can you have a 2000 or newer E7 ??? did they make both at the same time ?

The e tech is an e7 I believe.

Block and components, displacement, all pretty much the same, just modified right side of the block to accommodate fuel gallery, eup's and additional cam lobes for eup's.

20 hours ago, 90plow said:

I have an eaton8ll in my 2007 Mack granite I recently purchased.  Truck has 212,000 miles and 20,000 hours.  Trans seems fine other than the 5th to 4th drop.   Occasionally the trans misses 4th and seems to be in 8th.  It’s driving me nuts when I’m downshifting loaded.  Some have said the synchros are shot and have suggested just getting a rebuilt trans for 3800 and throwing it in the truck vs. re doing the synchros.

Could it be anything besides synchros?

How intense is the synchro replacement?

 

thanks

Eric

Do you have any air leaks that sound like they're coming from the trans? Could be a fault with your "combination cylinder" sticking or not getting enough air pressure to move it from high to low on the range shift. My truck has 262k miles and 20,300+ hours, and sounds like mine has broken pieces inside, yours could be in similar shape with the synchros.