JoeH

Hardest task is removing the + nut. We had to use oxy acetylene torch to heat up the steering knuckle so we could turn the nut.  

A tow to the mechanic to repair this thing is cheaper than what you're likely to do to it next time you start it...

Is the water going on the ground or into your oil pan...

Sounds like you need your engine torn apart before you send a connecting rod out the side of your block or break your crankshaft...

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-J-44004-King-Pin-Cap-Tool-Kit-p/kmtj-44004.htm

Here's the + nut kit, comes with 2 sizes, for the lighter axles and the bigger axles.

My 1979 has same style of king pins, Mack has been using them forever.

Mack doesn't make cams for these engines anymore, don't know if PAI does. I think there's a cam shop in the Midwest (berry cams maybe?) That can weld and regrind a bad lobe.

Oil pan and valve covers show you pretty much everything you need to see on an engine. Pull valve covers and check your pushrods and rocker arm, look for a cylinder way out on adjustment. Pull your oil pan to see the condition of the bottom end, look up at the camshaft and check to see if you wiped a lobe off with a broken lifter face.

We had one of our endt676 engines drop a valve seat out on one cylinder once. Hell of a sound.  It was fine when I shut the truck off one day, but when I started it up the seat must have dropped in while it was shut off. I kept the piston, it has chunks embedded in the crown. Too cool of a paper weight to pass up!

Yea cng is starting to show up here in the states.

A lot of these bolts take big torque to tighten.

Trunnion bar on our dm686SX broke probably 8 years ago. Don't remember what all was involved, I just remember the bar was about 3 to 500 lbs of solid steel. When it broke the external trunnion stand brackets sat down on the spring u bolts.

I think if I were going to go to the effort of replacing bushings (which I plan to this year on one of my trucks that needs springs) I'd replace the bar as well. I don't think it's too difficult, the rear of the truck frame should get set up on blocking or HD metal sawhorse so that the camelbacks hang. If taking the dump bed off isn't a challenge for you then I'd say that's a prudent safety move that may make access a little easier.

Wrong PTO and hydraulic pump either got ordered or were delivered. Correct ones had to be ordered, looks like beginning of April this thing should be done.  Parts were about a 3 week delivery schedule, and they need about a week to install and run QC on the mixer to complete the project.

If 4 is better than 2, then 6 is better than 4!

If you need to pull the cam out, use zip ties to hold all the lifters up. I managed to pull the cam out as well as one lifter on our spare motor without having to take the oil pan off. (Our spare motor is bolted to a homemade engine stand that makes oil pan removal difficult, but let's us move it around on the forklift). Stuff the old cam in to keep the lifters from dropping during storage.

The lifter was a challenge to get out, I had to make some sort of a rod to reach through the cam bearing assembly to catch the lifter from falling into the oil pan.

Can't get the cam through the dealer anymore, I'd hang on to that motor for parts. We have one from 81 that's given parts to most of our fleet.

I'm still lost as to what is being asked.  In "normal" operation, al it takes is one wheel on either axle to lose traction and spin and the truck is stuck.  If you engaged the power divider switch on top of the dash then it requires one wheel on each axle to spin in order to get stuck.  Mack makes a "full locked" setup that has ANOTHER switch, this one locks left and right wheels together so by using both switches if requires all 4 drive wheels to spin in order to get stuck. On ordering trucks no one knows about the full locked option so there's very few trucks that have it.

Is this a case of misunderstanding how your axles work? Or is there actually a problem?

On my android I have to crop them sometimes in the photo app, then upload the cropped photo. 

Air filter housing nuts are plastic, don't overtighten them they strip out real easy.

They limit torque in low gears.

If you have a coolant filter it would be on the top front of the engine, above the fan belts.  I think the Mack coolant filter has an additive in it that "recharges" the pH? of the coolant. Changing this filter too often can cause the coolant to become corrosive via electrolysis (I think).  Someone here wrote a test procedure to test the conductivity of the coolant with a volt meter.  There's a certain ohms range it's supposed to be in.  Outside of that can be problematic. (never concerned us much...)

As with all things, "Trust but verify!"