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JoeH
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Posts posted by JoeH
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Typically an rd690"S" would be 44k rear camelback. An "SX" would be 58k or higher. "ST" would be either 34k or usually 38k. If this was a concrete mixer then yes I expect it's just a solid beam version of the Mack Camelback.
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It's set reasonably well. The muffler sustained a dent, and the chrome stack is sitting a little cocked on the muffler.
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Glad it wasn't an ECU/software issue. "Sorry, bum software from 1st ECU got transferred to new ECU, now we have to order another ECU and try something else!" I'd have been off my rocker.
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I'm in Joey Mack's territory, I just bought a sprinter van for the growing family. I'll be back in the shop on Friday, maybe I'll get some more pictures then...
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In the grand scheme of things the exhaust bracket was pretty low on the list, but yes it needed to be done, lol. Nothing bolts to that stand other than muffler, plastic fender piece, and the cab jack pump. Mack wanted about $650 for the stand, but I think we got it straight enough...
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Yea, the exhaust stand on the cutoff was about rotted through, so that was unusable. We parked our crane behind this truck and used it as a "Porta-power" to push the exhaust stand straight!(ish, lol)
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That will be me.
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Also took the time to tighten the 2 loose bolt inside the rear axle. I have all new torque arms ready to go on, they're a pain to do when the body is on.
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Great trucks; you're going to want to fix this intake tube though, keep rain from getting in and ruining a nice truck. Also its letting unfiltered air in. This radiator has the reservoir in the top, you should just barely be able to touch it with your fingers. You can spot coolant leaks by looking for salt trails, common leak spots are the freeze plugs on the driver side, as well as the crossover hose (very short) between the front and rear head water manifolds, also on the driver side.
Does seem strange that the oil is only on one side of the dipstick. Next time check the oil before starting the engine. I have an E7 that if I check it 5 minutes after shutting off it'll be a gallon low on oil, but if I check it first thing in the AM it's full.
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On 3/8/2024 at 6:49 PM, Big Mack Truck said:
Yes, I have. They are super low cost! Is that what you guys here are using nowadays? My thought process is I can't afford to be cheap because it costs more typically.
My Mack dealer uses PAI parts for engines frequently.
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13 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:That's impressive rate of work
It's all coming along nicely
Paul
It's gotta move along fast, the payment on the mixer for this truck is $2400/month. We're running one truck right now because we need the garage space to fix this thing. Spring is pretty much here, our season should be starting soon.
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Cab is on the truck, runs, everything is functional so far, new windshields. Painting doors, corner protectors and wiper motor plates tomorrow.
The one steering tire has a small chunk missing from between the tread, and a bit of steel cord showing. The steer tires will definitely be getting replaced.
Waiting on mounting hardware to replace bent brackets and questionable bolts to hold the mixer to the truck. All in all the project is going smoothly, just taking a long time.
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Early ETECH engines put the engine computer on the passenger side of the engine, under the turbo. Later ones are on the driver side.
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I don't see any reason why the engine wouldn't fit in your truck and work, assuming they're both ETECH or ASET AI engines. Might be minor differences on ambient air temperature sensors, but you can probably swap computers and make the 460 think it's the 300. Once again assuming the 460 is an ETECH. Turbo and injectors and a few other mechanical parts may be different.
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read this before you rebuild your ai300.
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What year is the E7? Would help to know if it's an eup engine. What chassis is the donor engine from and what chassis needs it? Different chassis use different bulkhead connectors for mating the wiring between the engine and vehicle harnesses.
There's a very thorough writeup on here regarding the AI delete. Cam, exhaust manifold, turbo/exhaust pipe, etc.
What transmission is in the truck right now? You need to make sure the trans can take the extra power. Also a 300hp drive shaft is weaker than a 460 driveshaft.
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I'm contemplating dusting it off, hiring a team of horses and putting it in the Chalfont parade one of these years. 2 of the wheels are in the bed of the wagon so the forklift can set it onto the top of the shelf.
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"It was made in Pleasant Corners, Near New Tripoli, PA. Under the paint you can just make out "Sand Springs Roller Mill." I bartered for it from John Greenall. I forget the name of his farm. He was a participant with us in the Liberty Bell Trek in 1976. It is as close as I could find to what was probably used by Hartzel's between 1860 and 1930." - from my Dad.
Our business has been around since 1860, used to be lumber yard and a feed mill. This wagon is definitely not fiberglass, it's very much made of wood. Wheels, spokes, hubs... All wood.
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Replacement cab is white now to match the other trucks.
Pretty sure the wagon is from the 1800s. Don't really have any knowledge of its history, not sure if it has a tag plate on it somewhere. I'll have to inquire with my dad.
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I have a nice king pin press I bought at advance auto for my dodge 2500, it'd probably press the studs out if you had enough space on the backside for the tool to fit.
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Refinishing an 89 superliner
in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Posted
Wire it up black to ground, red to sending unit and see what happens.