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JoeH

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by JoeH

  1. Not sure what dents this cab has, I can't see any. If you know a good body guy that could moonlight a couple hours for you filling them in/sanding them down after work then you'd be well on your way to paint. *Dewaxing should happen right before primer and paint! Then don't touch it, the oils from your hands will transfer and cause fisheyes.
  2. You can UTECH epoxy primer that thing and stick it outside in the rain for 10 years and you want have a spot of rust on it so long as you dewaxed everything so you dont have any fisheyes in the primer, and you managed to get every bit of metal covered.
  3. The UTECH primer can be followed up shortly with paint, but if you wait more than I think a week it gets too hard for the paint to bond, so you'd have to scuff the primer down to give the paint something to stick to.
  4. Build a paint booth out of poly plastic around that thing and get a painter in there and get some primer on that cab! Needs to be wiped down with a wax/degreaser removing solvent before priming. I use 2 coats of UTECH epoxy primer, and follow it up an hour later with UTECH single stage paint. Here's the booth I made in February in my shop to prep/paint a cab for a truck that rolled over in November. There's a cardboard filter box attached to a ventilator fan, blowing air through poly stapled to a 2x4. I put more filters at the discharge end of poly tube, and that caught some paint. No idea how much paint made it into the atmosphere, I was busy inside the booth while the filters were working! The old cab is on the left, it caught a tree on its way into the ditch.
  5. Weak valve spring or over-revving the engine. Either will cause the valve to float, which could result in a bent rod.
  6. Glad you got it working. I think you mentioned your system has fine mesh screens in the fittings. I could see this being the blockage point with cold hydraulic oil.
  7. We got our truck with 415k miles, so no idea how it was from factory, but this is how it was routed when we bought it. "Push" function first T's into the passenger cab mount latch, then splits to go to tilt ram and the driver cab mount latch. "Pull" function just goes to retract the tilt ram. When the cab comes over center and starts coming down on its own weight it creates enough pressure on the "push" circuit to force the latches back open. Once the cab is seated, the springs on the latches hook the cab to keep it locked down. I assume your truck is the same way, but yours is 24 years older than mine. Not sure how the "push" circuit creates the resistance during "pull" function to open the latches, there may be a small orifice the oil has to pass through in order to return to the pump. Not sure why you're having the problem you're having! Something must be acting as a check valve somewhere, or the cylinder is binding!
  8. Mixer mounted up, need to tighten mounting bolts and hook electrical plugs, hydraulic pump, water tank rebuild the mixing auger for the back... (worn from use, not collision) I'm also chasing an ABS code that is bugging me. Right steer abs cable ripped so I put a new sensor in, but still have a code. Gotta get this truck ready for inspection!
  9. I think I have at least 3 different style sending units on my fleet.
  10. Just reading back through, title says you already know they're stud pilot; I assumed they were aluminum rims bc they look polished, but I guess that's just a wheel cover?
  11. Note the above is for Budd rims, I'm not referring to spoke rims at all in the above comment.
  12. There's Hub Pilot hubs and Stud Pilot hubs. In the picture of your truck it looks like you have Stud Pilots. The rim's stud holes need to be tapered, and the lug nuts have to be cone shaped. Our 1979 R686ST is this way. The lug nut cones center the rim on the hub. On Hub Pilots the rim will not have the cone taper, and the rim will center on the hub by sitting into a casting on the center of the hub. This style requires longer wheel studs. Also, aluminum rims are fatter than steel around the bolt pattern, so you need longer studs for aluminum than for steel wheels I believe. That could be your issue. Truck probably had steel rims originally.
  13. Quick Google search pops up CX613/CXN613. Highway Tractor version of the same cab Granites use, with a different hood.
  14. I think the Vision is the CH? Or the Volvo powered CHU maybe?
  15. Wow, thank God that was at a low traffic time.
  16. My 1979 r686st. Hard to see what's going on but black from the truck harness grounds to screw, orange from pigtail mates to same screw. Other wire on pigtail butt connected to other wire from truck harness. My 1995 RD688S, has a type with 2 screw terminals.
  17. One wire gets mounted to a screw on the sending unit, the other gets mounted to the terminal on the . middle of the sending unit.
  18. If I read @mechohaulic right, it's not supposed to ground at all. One wire is 12v "hot" coming in, then it goes through the sending unit where the resistance changes based on fuel level, which drops voltage down. The other wire goes back to the gauge with "weakened" voltage, then the circuit grounds *after the gauge*.
  19. JoeH

    RD specs

    38's are typically 11r22.5 tires on 5 spoke hubs. 44's and 58's are on 6 spoke hubs IIRC, which are holding 11r24.5 tires.
  20. I'll snap a picture of my cylinder fittings if I remember today.
  21. Is truck parked outside in the cold or inside in the heat? Are you trying to tilt cab in sub freezing temps? You could have water/ice acting as a check valve flowing back and forth. You could also have the lines hooked up backwards/in the wrong ports.
  22. Scrap yards won't take tanks. Once they're cut open they aren't tanks. But they do need to drain so they can't hold rain water/other residual liquids. So a few holes in the underside should do the trick just fine.
  23. Propane tanks you depressurize, pull the valves off, fill with water to displace any potential gas, drain, cut em up with your choice of tools. These tanks you have, depending how much residue they have, need to be cleaned out and torched. You just need to make it not a "tank" anymore. So cut a large section (like the whole top of the tank) out of the top and drop it inside the tank. Then the whole thing can get carried to the junk yard. They should have a belly valve that is either cable or air opened/spring close, good way to drain any liquids out. It could very well be water condensation that's accumulated in the tank from years of sitting. I have a 4000 gallon tanker on my property that took on water from sitting.
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