JoeH

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/transmissions/vehicle-transmissions/8ll/eaton-fuller-havey-duty-transmissions-service-manual-trsm1500-en-us.pdf Snoop through the table of contents "in vehicle service procedures". Looks like auxiliary section (page 118) can be removed and services in chassis. Then jump to bench procedure section to see how to do rebuild.

Single frame R's tend to break at the splay under the cab. I have a '79 that the pass side broke 7+ years ago on, we spliced a used frame section in on that side from behind the cab forward. Driver side just broke a few months ago, spliced that rail from behind the cab forward from a U model we had laying around. Truck doesn't have a hard life every day, but we use it just as hard as we need it to. Both rails have 4ft sister frame sleeves at the splices.

The e tech is an e7 I believe. Block and components, displacement, all pretty much the same, just modified right side of the block to accommodate fuel gallery, eup's and additional cam lobes for eup's.

Do you have any air leaks that sound like they're coming from the trans? Could be a fault with your "combination cylinder" sticking or not getting enough air pressure to move it from high to low on the range shift. My truck has 262k miles and 20,300+ hours, and sounds like mine has broken pieces inside, yours could be in similar shape with the synchros.

How about when trying to come out of first for an upshift and the shifter snags halfway out of gear and ruins your shift to 2nd, having to go back to first to get momentum going again?

When I downshift mine from 3rd/7th sometimes it stays in gear, even though I have the shifter in neutral??? Stays in til I punch the clutch so it doesn't explode... PoS... And it'll sneak out of 7th if you're coasting with light throttle. My trucking application would do much better with a Mack 10 speed, multi reverse. Let's go David, chime in on how wrong I am.

It was their truck, they needed it to run a rock crusher, so they did something pretty neat! At least they cut it somewhere that's very easy to splice a new frame section or junkyard cutoff onto.

Looks like tube tires on the front, they'll probably take air, just don't go all the way up to 120.

Many business owners/managers are afraid to fail, so they won't upset the apple cart by changing the business model. Sears did automotive tires, was a department store, used to sell home kits apparently. Lawn mowers, clothes, literally just about anything. They should have revolutionized online shopping, not Amazon. But they didnt want to fail, so they maintained business as usual even though business as usual was changing. They wound up failing because they wouldn't change.

The sears by me was running Point of Sale computers from 1990 through their end. Sears management didn't have any vision for the company, ran it into the ground because they were afraid to fail. Wound up failing anyways!

That's a neat front suspension setup.

We have replaced several cams on those motors over the years, it pays to have a fleet of trucks, on road and retired, all with the same engine. Not sure if the cams are different between a 237 and 283, we haven't needed to scavenge our retired 237s yet for motor parts. I'm vaguely aware there's a couple different head bolt differences, not sure beyond that!

You'll need to ensure that the radiator is not attached to the firewall via support arms. And the hood stoppers on the firewall need to be rollers, not the donut style sometimes used. Radiator needs support rods that go diagonally to the shock absorber brackets on the frame. But air ride cabs are a beautiful thing. We bought an '88 RD690S last year that we're still fabricating the body for before putting into full-time service. We converted it to air ride cab mount,which is a must with a 20k steer axle.

I have an '88 Rd with 20k steer and only one gearbox; a 1980 DM686SX with 20k steer and one gearbox; and a 1995 RD with an 18k steer and one gearbox.

So yer sayin it's bar x 15 2.5 x 15 = 37.5

I do believe that's just an intake for cold starts.

What weight are you running? In general you fill tires up to what the door jam stickers say, not necessarily what the tires say. If you're always running empty on a hobby truck then yeah, cut the camelbacks down to 50-60 psi

In another 100 years there won't be a single Anthem left.

That's a heavy rig. Front steer isn't powered, is the 2nd steer a drive axle?

Those hoods have an identity crisis. They look like a blend of old style and new style R model contours. (I know they're DMs)

How many hours on the truck?

We just converted a 1988 RD we bought to air ride cab. Got all the parts from a junkyard 2001 RD. You need the exhaust stand tube that also serves as the cab mount; leveling valve, there's brackets on the inside of the frame rails for the shock absorbers, there's a plate that bolts to the underside of the cab at the rear that the air bags attach to. All the "soft" parts can be had through your dealer, you just need a VIN from the truck you pull the brackets out of. Also, earlier R models have rods that fixate the radiator to the firewall. Those need to be deleted and replaced with diagonal braces that bolt to the frame somewhere by the front axle shock absorbers. Also need to make sure the rubber hood stops on the firewall are converted to rollers. Muffler can't bolt to the cab, needs to bolt to the exhaust stand from the junkyard.

Your balls are bigger than mine.

I suspect it might, the R model has been used with engines from the same era as the B as well as the E7. Chassis Mount Charge Air Cooler might not fit though. Perhaps the R model firewall was altered for the E7, but I'm not sure. It's only a 1 liter displacement change.

My 283 whistles from the turbo, but I'm not sure the tip turbine makes any noise. Tip turbine is basically powered by wastegated turbo pressure. What conditions cause the air hiss? Under full load? Partial load? Certain rpms?