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MOloghauler

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Everything posted by MOloghauler

  1. I will check that, I’m having such a hard time finding electrical info on this truck. Seems like everything on it has been re-wired by 5 different people and every one of them got it wrong 🤦‍♂️ Thank you for the info!
  2. Mine was that way for awhile, that’s why I went ahead with the new switch. I’ve checked grounds, ran new grounds, checked all other wires and still nothing. I’m thinking about just wiring in a 3 way toggle switch and only having high and low. Anything would be better than what I’ve got at this point
  3. This started about a month ago, my wipers got to where they would run for a bit then shut off for a few beats and then kick back on. Then they quit completely. Being impatient as I am I went for the quick fix and swapped the wiper motor for a new one. Same thing, nothing. They would work on high every now and then but that was it. So I replaced the switch, still the same thing. Only work on high when they want to. So I got to digging through the wires and found one red wire that went the opposite direction from all the other wires, and followed it to a relay mounted behind the fuse box. That HAD to be the problem... replaced the relay, checked all the other wires, and you guessed it.. still nothing. They work on high only. Am I missing something? The wiring seems very simple, the switch and motor are both Mack parts, but I’m at my wits end with these wipers! Anybody have any ideas?
  4. That’s what I was thinking but I checked with a volt meter and have power coming to the gauge from every wire (except the ground of course). Not sure if that means anything or not. Would it be possible to go ahead and wire in a sensor, and put a fitting in the oil pan at the next service?
  5. My truck is a 1993 Rd688 with the E7 350. I’m trying to replace my oil temp gauge, but can’t find the sensor? I’ve looked all around the oil pan, and around the oil cooler and can’t find it. Anybody have any ideas? 2nd question: I have quite a bit of oil on the passenger side of the block, it starts about the bottom of the head and runs all the way down. I’m pretty sure it’s coming from around the exh manifold studs, but how do I go about stopping them from letting oil past? Many help is greatly appreciated!
  6. Well i decided to stay with the original gearing. Being a log truck and crawling around through the mud and mountains I think having the low end “grunt” will do me more good than the extra 5 mph down the highway. Thank you MT for the input!
  7. Ok, I’m running a ‘93 RD688s and somehow the back rear end housing has got cracked and even has a couple chunks broke out of it. Obviously ruined, the 3rd member is still in decent shape but I’m replacing everything with a complete reman unit. The truck is currently running 4.64 gears, I found a good deal on a pair of 4.17 3rd members and am tossing around the idea of swapping them out to gain a few mph and maybe improve fuel economy. Question is: If I were to do that what should I expect performance wise? It’s got an E7 350 with an Eaton 13 trans. With the current gearing I have yet to find a hill it won’t climb, but am worried about over working the engine with that much of a change in gear ratios
  8. Challenger, I’ll definitely check those things. I turned the switch on high with ending running and unplugged both terminals and had an arc from each wire when in plugging, and while I had the valve cover off I checked and am getting power to the solenoid.
  9. I have an older model E7, mechanical motor with a 2 stage Jake. The jakes work on the low side, but the high isn’t working at all. I took the valve cover off and the power wire was broken, replaced the wire, and still nothing. Are there more wires under there I need to check? I couldn’t get the valve cover all the way off, just slid out of the way enough to get to the power wire. Is there a solinoid that could possibly be bad? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  10. Thank you all! I kind of had the same thought as Terry with the governor just based on other older diesel equipment I’ve been around. But will definitely check everything else. One thing I forgot to mention, there is a crack on my turbo housing right where it bolts to the exhaust manifold. What kind of problems could that be causing, if any? I don’t have a boost gauge so I really have nothing to judge it by
  11. I’m running a ‘93 RD688s with an E7 350 mechanical motor. Engine runs great empty and has tons of power, but if I have it in a hard pull or a long run loaded it has a very uneven idle. revs up to almost 1,000 rpm then will bog down to around 400 and kind of “shutter” like it wants to die then pick back up and rev up high again. Even seems to be lacking on power at times when loaded especially in warmer weather. But again, it runs great when empty no matter how long or hard I run it. Not sure if that could possibly be a problem with the pump getting too hot, or sucking air in the fuel system somewhere? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
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