RobM626

4 hours ago, Phase 1 said:

 

Then maybe we'll get to know the new owner very well here.

I told the guy that was interested in the truck most of the history or whatever I could in the 20-30 mins we talked and I think the number offered was pretty fair

To everyone on here that provided insight and help on this thread/topic I truly thank you and appreciate all of your wisdom. I’m glad forums like this exist

4 hours ago, Hayseed said:

 

 

 

^^^^^^ We posted this nearly 18 months ago....!!!! &  here we are still talking about the Same Thing...

Lol I know I was just replying to a comment and updating what was going on. I don’t have the patience or money to keep dumping in the truck. The issues with this truck were stuff that no one could find the root of

5 hours ago, mrsmackpaul said:

Unless Im dumb and I am 

 

If it has a Mack motor and trans a bent chassis wont have effect 

 

This vibrates and chaters etc when your not driving it says on page one or two 

Theres a lot of wives tails BS going 

Mack trans hangd off the motor 

People are way over thinking this

Paul

Mack motor Eaton 8ll trans

2 hours ago, cstaples said:

Sounds a little crazy but any chance the truck is bent? Like the frame sideways or pulled out of square? This will cause big problems with motor/transmission alignment.

It’s definitely frame related. Took it to someone few weeks ago and he thinks the body destroyed the frame. He thinks the body had so much deflection in it that it caused it to not sit on the frame anymore and the constant pounding of the body on the frame threw it out of wack. Idk it makes sense. I’m fixing the truck a little cosmetically as much as I can and trying to sell it. I have one offer. We will see what happens

2 hours ago, cstaples said:

Sounds a little crazy but any chance the truck is bent? Like the frame sideways or pulled out of square? This will cause big problems with motor/transmission alignment.

On 9/26/2019 at 8:10 PM, Swishy said:

Was there ever a FIX to the original problem

inquirin minds need to kno

WotSezU?

cya

Sorry for the late reply, I haven’t been on here much lately. I ended up doing some work on the suspension . Changed springs and insulator pads and bushings and it tightened things up in the back. I’m pretty sure my problems are coming from the frame . I got a lot of flex going on throughout. Area behind cab where hoist for dump body sits as well. 

We were supposed to sell this truck and the 06 granite and buy a new truck to replace the 2, but the 06’ sold and the 00’ didn’t so we ended holding the 00’ and not buying the new truck yet. Dumbest decision to date. Don’t even get me started   On that lol. Gonna see how much longer we can get out of it. We slowed down a lot the past year. We lost 2 of our main contracts and don’t really have the work to warrant a new truck at the moment. Hopefully things turn around soon.

4 minutes ago, Rob said:

Can you ask? There are seemingly many avenues that were not tried or evaluated in the course of trying to repair this truck; all at your expense.

I don't mean to be belligerent but you have been through the mill on this and it's exactly the kind of "Bitch Problems" I always got stuck with when working trucks.

Ill try and stop there one day and see if anyone remembers the details

5 hours ago, Rob said:

I would be interested in the setup he used to measure the crankshaft deflection. 

Was a sustitute flywheel tried? Was the crankshaft flange face indicated and measured? Was crankshaft vertical play in the block measured? Was balance on engine flywheel checked when removed from engine? 

I wish I knew the answers to those questions but unfortunately do not

7 hours ago, terry said:

I had a vibration once in a 237, it was running but the crank came out in two pieces!     terry

I’ve heard especially Mack’s will run with a broken crank from numerous people

1 hour ago, Rob said:

It is easy. You pull one main cap at a time, set up an indicator on that exposed journal and rotate the crankshaft by hand noticing the deflection, (which is twist) while it is still installed. They usually do this prior to snapping/breaking and is usually a result from "dumping" the clutch while heavy.

He did do that. But he told me there’s a possibility that there can still be a problem with the crank that will go unnoticed with the crank still in the engine. 

They also ran the motor many times without transmission installed. It sounds better. Much better. You dont have the gears spinning and chattering when it’s not installed so it makes you think the problem is after the flywheel

6 minutes ago, Rob said:

With the pan dropped, did they check the crankshaft for twist which will show up as runout in the center of the crankshaft most times. This needs done at each main bearing crankshaft journal with an indicator as the crankshaft is rotated. Rebuilt a couple of engines where the crankshaft was not straight in the center from torsional stress and exceeded yield of the forging.

It's damned hard to be at the mercy of the mechanic; especially if they are on the wrong track. The small and "old time" shops tend to work with a customer if what they installed turns out to be incorrect or doesn't fix the problem. Very frustrating to "eat" what was misdiagnosed 100%. We are human and make mistakes and I always ran my business(s) with that thought in mind.

The last guy that worked on the truck pulled the pan and pulled every set of mains he said he couldn’t find a problem. He was also the one who found the burr and had his machinist smooth it out. It’s almsot impossible to do a full analysis if crank is bent with it still in no?

3 minutes ago, Rob said:

I've seen more than one truck with a bent crankshaft snout when hit in the front. Has this been checked for runout with the balancer removed? The crankshaft should have probably been evaluated for bend and runout with the pan dropped as have seen them twisted but not broken causing vibrations that are extremely difficult to locate.

There were too many ideas/guesses thrown out there at first so I backed off.

Throwing parts at a repair is no way to do business and VERY expensive, (as you know).

Runout was checked when I changed balancer and check out. Pulled pan looked for damage on crank, check out as well. There was however a burr on the flywheel end of the crank that the machinist smoothed out. 

When your throwing parts at the truck you have this glimpse of hope that it’s going to solve the problem, especially when the mechanics tell you “this is causing the problem”.

11 hours ago, 41chevy said:

I would mark where the engine and transmission mounts are setting now, loosen the engine and trans mounts from the chassis and than the trans to bell housing bolts. Give it a few good strong shakes and re tighten the Trans bolts and  than the mounts. Most likely their positions will have shifted some after you re set it all.

Gotta give it a shot. I always said everytime the tranny came out and they put it back on the truck felt and drove better for like a week. Then it felt like something was shifting and the problems came back or got worst. And the clutches always started going after a few months. The clutch seems to be absorbing all of the shock from whatever is going on

2 hours ago, JoeH said:

Dropping a replacement  motor and transmission in is the only reliable fix I can think of for your situation, unless you find something wrong inside the trans. Maybe find a high mileage running tractor on the cheap to be donor.

I just can’t jusitfy spending that kind of money in this thing. The frame isn’t in good shape anymore and the dump body is at the end of its life. For me to get this truck in a good working replacing engine and a new dump body would probably be around 35 grand. And it’s not a guarantee. If I knew the last 30 grand I dumped in the truck wasn’t gonna fix the problems I would have done it 2 years ago but to do it now would be insanity.

2 hours ago, JoeH said:

Does it vibrate in neutral, revved up, not moving?  Is the vibration speed dependant or engine rpm dependant?

What trans does it have? Has the trans been opened up to look for a broken snap ring? Engine might be fine, guts of the trans may have been compromised.

Vibrates in nuetral going thru the rpms. Worst is around 1100. Smoothes out a bit around 12-1300 then picks up a little more vibration after 1300...has an 8ll. I put in a reman about 15 months ago. I even pulled the reman and sent it back to rebuilder to put on his dyno. He says it checked out fine. The new tranny never fixed anything. It was a complete waste of 5500$. From the moment it was put in it never made a difference. The crazy thing is the clutches never last. I thought I solved that problem when found the clutch cable mangled. I replaced it maybe 5-6 months ago. And now the pedal goes soft again and I have that horrible clunk when I press and release the accelerator again. 

Mall you hear when you drive the truck is gears whirling and chatter. And the vibration I’ve been complaining about for more than 2 years now.

On 3/28/2019 at 1:48 PM, Tforconcrete said:

I have a 2008 Mack with a MP7 engine with a delete kit installed.  In the lower gears the truck seems to run fine but in the top gears it falls flat on its face.  There is an engine malfunction light on all the time (Lightning Bolt).  Checked  codes and no codes are listed.  Seems like a fuel issue but not sure.  Also is there a way to get flash codes from the truck itself without computer?  Any help is greatly appreciated.

My 08 granite gives the codes selecting diagnostics menu on dash

On 3/27/2019 at 8:29 PM, JoeH said:

Watch for engine codes.

When the key is first turned on you should see the lightning bolt turn on for a bit then go off. That's the check engine light. If it stays on, with the cruise control switch off hold down the set/decel button a few secobdst until the check engine light starts doing stuff. It'll blink out a 2 digit fault code. Write it down. Hit the set/decel again, it'll blink another fault code if there is one. Keep doing it til it doesn't give any new codes any more.

Some of us here have invested in the books on these trucks and can tell you what the codes mean.

The tiniest dent in the side of that computer is all it takes to destroy it, or so I'm told, so be careful with it if you buy the truck. Clean looking engine!

Very clean engine!

On 3/26/2019 at 1:39 PM, JoeH said:

Did you ever just swap the motor out with a replacement? Maybe the flywheel housing or bell housing got tweaked, throwing the engine/trans alignment off. Or the crank got tweaked. Ever check the flywheel run-out  with the trans off?

Sorry for the delay in reply. You are correct truck was hit with loader in front right. I have checked runout on flywheel multiple times then ended up just putting a new flywheel on. Just this week it started acting up again. It really has to be an engine/transmission alignment issue. That’s really the only thing left. No matter how many new parts I throw at it nothing really changes. Now I’m really screwed Because we were selling this truck and the 06 granite, and the granite sold and this one didn’t. So I don’t have a back-up triaxle now. I just don’t know how much more money it’s gonna cost to fix this curse so I’ve been trying to hold out thinking we were gonna replace it.🤷‍♀️🤦‍♂️

On 3/21/2019 at 6:26 PM, TWJ721 said:

tossing this out there has harmonic balancer been replaced ? just wondering 

 

Yes. That was changed about a year ago made no difference

Yea I agree about the Allison. If your fine with your manual and you don’t go through clutches then Sri k with manual. The only thing I don’t like about the new trucks with a manual is the air assist clutch. I personally hate the feel of them. Our 2000, 2004, and 2006 feel so much better than  the new granites when your taking off especially in stop and go traffic. We’re in nyc so I definately know what your talking about. The 2 Allison’s we have are great for the city. Just spec it right for your application and I don’t think you’ll be dissapointed

They were quoting me like +3000 when we thought that was the problem but it wasn’t. They were telling me they had to take the turbo off and a lot of times the bolts break bla bla bla. 95% of the shops out there are a much of crooks that change parts on our expense and don’t even know if that part is the problem. It’s is a pricey job though

11 hours ago, JoeH said:

I wonder if these trucks had pyrometers or drivers that knew how to read a pyrometer. Trucks fuel map was probably tweaked, putting out a wider power band and more power.  Exhaust systems are designed to be most efficient at a very narrow rpm band. Modern ones are also designed for all that Regen crap. If you're going to delete it and remap the fuel, you have to get the heat out of those heads! You have to redesign the exhaust. Ideal is basically just straight piped.

A bad tune definitely a possibility

2 hours ago, Mackpro said:

Start by cleaning all the banjo fittings on the ECM cooler plate and to the fuel filter stand . It’s a common issue . 

How many fittings are there on that motor that I need to check?

2 hours ago, Mackpro said:

Start by cleaning all the banjo fittings on the ECM cooler plate and to the fuel filter stand . It’s a common issue . 

Thanks Mack pro...gonna check it out tomorrow