jackdk

Does anyone have a set of these laying around they want to part with. Mine are so badly deteriorated, that I need to replace both of them. 1985 up Mack Superliner.

Thanks,

On 5/9/2022 at 4:19 PM, terry said:

Might have been moved for a reason, stand pipe was sucking air?    terry

I'm sure it was moved for a purpose Terry. When I had an issue of running out of fuel going up hill with less than 1/2 tank. I looked inside and saw that the baffle had come lose, and was floating in the tank half way up. It took out the tank float, and it probably rubbed a hole in the pickup tube, so he moved the draw to the bottom front. No wonder the previous owner filled the tank with fuel when I came to look at it, so I wouldn't see the baffle floating in the tank. LOL

23 hours ago, Hans Remmers said:

Just regular 45 degree sae flare on one end and pipe thread into the tank.  Not sure on the tank thread but the line end flare should be 1/2" suction and 3/8" return.  Most places that make hydraulic lines should have these.

Thank you Hans. The pipe thread end into the tank, is one 3/8" and the other 1/2", or are both fittings into the tank 1/2"?  

2 hours ago, JBushneck said:

Those platinum/ fiberglass cowls are junk. I will see if I have some good metal ones in my collection for you. 

Thanks Justin. 

I am in need of a nice cowl vent for my Superliner. Any vent off an A/C  R, RW, DM etc. 

Mine is nice, but must be off a newer model as its all plastic. The power of the actuator did a number on the tabs on the underside of the vent door.

Thanks

Does anyone know, or have a good part number for the fuel tank sending unit that was used on a 1985 Superliner with 25" diameter tanks? I imagine the CH or MH with 25" tanks used the same one. After searching 100's of senders, I just can not find anything listed for RW 25". I do find RW units for 22", but thats not going to work.

Thanks in advance,

Has anyone purchased and installed this firewall insulator pad kit from Quiet Ride Solutions.

Was wondering about the quality, fit, and did it deaden the sound at all.

Thanks 

5 hours ago, Vladislav said:

Unfortunately it's not of the same easyness as the pics above. Otherwise I wouldn't hide a rabbit in a hat. We de-dressed the cab for body works a couple years back and I made pics for re-assembly reference. Didn't photo the valve and brackets since didn't put my hands particulary on them (so far). We just put marks on them and packed in some cardboard box together with other stuff.

OK, no problem, and I do appreciate what you already sent. Thanks again. 

12 hours ago, Vladislav said:

R688 of 1988. Rectangular Hadley air horns. That's the way I saw it when we took the headliner off prepping the cab for restoration. Your setup should be the same. Or definitely could be done this way even if it was different from the factory. Browsing flea bay listings I saw "Mack air horn valve" items and those looked similar to what I had in the truck. The part didn't seem unique to Mack and used by other truck makers.

OH MY! BROVO Vladislav. That is absolutely perfect. If its not to late, do you have a closeup picture of the horn valve and bracket. I have a feeling the previous owner took out the bracket  

Do any R, RW, DM, etc members have their headliner pulled done to get me pictures of the location of the airhorn valve, bracket and location? The previous owner removed the lights, horns, and roof vent from on top of the roof. I partially pulled down my headliner to day, and I can not figure out where it would even go. Has to be near the grommet in the headliner in assume, but I can not find anything that looks like the original location

Pictures or factory diagrams would be fantastic. If there are part numbers (valve, bracket, lanyard etc) for any of the items, that would be a BIG help as well. 

Thanks in advance, for any help, picture, or part #s. 

On 4/3/2021 at 5:13 PM, Joey Mack said:

The I.D. of those hoses is 3/8"..  that is plenty... There are D.O.T. grade fittings that you build in your hand, they even come with the 5/16" allen wrench to build them. you buy a length of D.O.T. hose and cut it to what you need, screw these fittings in the end and your done... I will look for the name of them.. I have used dozens of these but cant remember the name... Crazy...

Sounds good Joey Mack. Might be good to stock up on that stuff. Thanks. 

On 4/3/2021 at 2:49 PM, Vmac3 said:

It has to do with the volume of air entering the brake chamber. The smaller the diameter hose the less amount of air entering the brake chamber within a given amount of time. This will affect brake timing. Going down in hose I.D will dramatically change brake timing. 

V

Thanks Vmac

14 hours ago, MackTech said:

There are federal regulations on brake timing. (Time that brakes apply and another regulation for when they release)

Timing is done when there are changes made at the factory to make sure that the brakes apply and release within a certain amount of time.  If you make any changes to the air system, from how it was built at the factory you could change the timing.

Little changes from changing from a straight or 45⁰ fitting to a 90⁰ fitting could even change your timing.  So putting a smaller house on that was originally on there can possibly affect your timing.

I work in Macungie and have worked a bit on the air system.

Thanks MackTech. I guess the best thing to do is when I remove the hoses, cut it, and measure the inside diameter to see if its 3/8 or 1/2. Not sure what has been done to this truck before I purchased it, and what mods its been through. I know a lot has been done. Started as a tractor, then stretched and made into a tri-axle dump, air to the rear for pintle hitch trailers. Thanks again. 

I am getting ready to replace my front brake chambers on my 1985 Superliner. My question is the rubber hose size. Not sure if mine are 1/2" or 3/8" hose, but are about 18" long. 

What doesn't make sense to me is, why do they both go through a 3/8 fitting. What is the advantage of 3/8" fitting to 1/2" hose to 3/8" fitting over a 3/8" fitting 3/8" hose 3/8" fitting. No matter what size hose you use, it still narrows down to 3/8"

I want to make sure I put the correct ones on. All my drop-down hose are so old, that all the markings and sizes on them are long gone.

Last week one of my hood restraint cables snapped on my 1985 Superliner. From what I found, its part number 27RC250. I can't find one anywhere, and I don't see any cross reference numbers for it either. Anyone know where I can find, or have one they want to sell? If the other one brakes, I'm in trouble. Its a total of 38" forked clevis to forked clevis. Thanks...

Looking for two decent, not cracked or repaired R-RW dash bezels in silver/grey color.

I need the bezel that holds the tach and speedo. Part # 8MT519

and the top dash that holds the ash tray # 370R5114.

If anyone has any laying around that need a good home, please let me know condition and what you want for them.

Thanks...

Yah, I spec one out with Alumitank. 25x59 Polished, shipped to the house was a bit over 1300.00. Might be the way to go. 

OK. That sounds easy enough. Thanks for the info...

Just wondering if anyone has ever removed the steering column from inside a R or RW cab to repaint it. If so, any secrets? I want to pull the column and shaft, since when you open the door, it looks pretty nasty when you look up at the underside of the dash. I noticed there a four bolts that hold it in place on the slider. Any ideas or helpful hints would be appreciated. 

Pictures are what I am referring to, and not my truck, or the photographer...

Looking for a nice left side fuel tank for my Superliner. Need a 25" round, and anywhere between 56 to 67" long. They are about 134 gallon tanks. Nothing dented, patched, and no corrosion please. Center fill top draw. The sending unit is 49" back and fits behind the two rear straps. These tanks where used on the RW, CH, CX. Since I don't really want it shipped, the closer to Pittsburgh PA. The better. 

Thanks...

My 85 RW633 Superliner has the square vents. 

3 hours ago, hatcity said:

did you check the bulb first?

Bulb is good, switched it with the other side. Plus, I put on headlight bezels with an LED strip across the bottom. It will not light either being spliced into the black wire. . 

1 hour ago, davehummell said:

Gulfway got back to me today and I set 10,000.00 value on the truck with a 1,000.00 deductible. For the year it's 188.00 I am happy with that price.

Sounds like a good deal to me. 

I have been going crazy all day yesterday, trying to find the issue. Both left, and right turn signals on my 85 Superliner work as should. The right side marker on the side of the turn signal works as should. The driver side, I can not get the side marker to light up. Now as far as I can see with the test light, there are three wires. Green, black, white. On the right side, I have power to the green (turn signal), black (marker), and assuming the white is the ground with no power on test. Am I correct? Driverside, I am not getting power on the black (marker). I traced it all the way to the firewall, and no power in the wire at all, even out the four way plug. There is power at the junction strip. Is it possible to have a bad ground? and if its a bad ground! Will the turn signal still work, which it does?

Thanks in advance.

Anyone have a wire diagram of that junction block on the firewall. Mine is a mess, because of misc electrical stuff added, and removed over the years.