HeavyHaulinMac

I think someone said 2002 was best a while back, don't know why. I have an 02 350hp with 300k and the thing is mint. Will probably blow up tomorrow because I said that lol Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Never replaced a compressor with a different type/ style, always liked to get the same one by providing vin to parts supplier. What I have done is add a couple more air tanks to the truck/ trailer and that solved the lack of available air problem I have experienced. Just my. 02 Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I have a 1994 MR 690S cabover with a T2060 trans. The tach has intermittent fault where it does not read correctly but still reads low rpm, about 400-600 rpm max. Sometimes it reads properly. Tach has one of those magnetic pickups on the rear engine flywheel, which I replaced with new. Adjustment could be off... what I did was screw in until I hit the flywheel and backed off 180 degrees, then tightened lock nut. Still intermittent fault. Any ideas on where the problem could be? Wiring? Gauge? Adjustment? Any help is greatly appreciated Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

FIRE Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

My bad my bad, talking about tachometer not speedo. Ive been up too long to ask questions. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I have a 1994 MR 690S cabover with a T2060 trans. The tach has intermittent fault where it does not read correctly but still reads low rpm, about 400-600 rpm max. Sometimes it reads properly. Tach has one of those magnetic pickups on the rear engine flywheel, which I replaced with new. Adjustment could be off... what I did was screw in until I hit the flywheel and backed off 180 degrees, then tightened lock nut. Still intermittent fault. Any ideas on where the problem could be? Wiring? Gauge? Adjustment? Any help is greatly appreciated Edited post, talking tach not speedo Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Make sure the pickup in the fuel tank isn't blocked, I had that as an issue and it made me batty. Also how old are the fuel filters? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

THANK YOU!! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I also have this problem on my #1 cylinder on my E7 350. Same fix or am I in trouble? Thanks Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Did you try jumping the solenoid? Triple check the truck is in neutral, stay clear of any spinny bits and touch hot wire to small terminal on starter solenoid. Engine should crank. Have a dead spot on the starter in my E7 and every couple months or so I gotta do this. I should probably change my starter.... Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Haven't done the repair yet, need to have a little less going on as I still do a few loads a week with this truck. I am definitely going to do that little bit if diag. Vlad. said before I tear it apart just to be sure. Shifter is only like 2 years old so I doubt there is a fault with that, but you never know. I will definitely post the repair I find to be the solution. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Wow thanks you guys are great I owe you a night's worth of drinks! Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

One last question: I went to get some oil to chance in the transmission, and the guy behind the counter told me 75w-90 synthetic is proper for a T2060. Does that sound rite? Ive looked online and saw people using 50w mineral? Or 80w90 Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Yeah trans. Is under trash body... was thinking of taking forward body mounts off and a couple hydraulic hoses & wires then seeing if I can tilt the front of the body up high enough and securing it well enough to get in under there and do the repair. If not I'll probably just cut a hole in the floor of the body and see what happens from there lol This is pretty close to what I have going on Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Worst case scenario, if shift cylinder needs repair, does transmission need to come out/ or cut a hole in the floor of the body? Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Shifter handle was replaced with new about 2 years ago so I doubt there is a problem with that. We've had this truck for quite a while and I do not recall ever noticing this leak. I'm sure you guys are correct in saying it is a vent line but shouldn't it stop after everything equalizes? From the information thus far it sounds like a fault internally from the cylinder. Just for clarification this is a garbage truck to get an idea of the access to the tranny. Only access is from underneath with a "ceiling" about 8 inches above it. Thanks so far for all the info. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I have a 94 MR 690S cabover with a Maxitorque T2060 Trans. and a Leach 2RII rear load refuse body... Minimal access to transmission. My problem is a broken/ leaking air line over the transmission that is for the range selector. In low range the air leak increases, high range the leak is there but less. This line is bundled with 3 others that all go to fittings and are OK. The broken one does not have any fittings or another half of a line it would have been connected to nearby. Truck seems slow to change range but not that bad as range selector is only for low reverse and LO-LO. Does anybody know where this "extra" leaking line is supposed to go? Also on the passenger side there is 2 plugs into the housing. which one is to add gear lube?... would like to change it. 80W-90 I suppose? Pics attached thanks for any help

My 02 RD pyro gauge doesn't work..... Then it does... Then clips out again. I inspected the probe which to me isn't in bad shape. I opened the dash and it is connected to the gauge itself properly. I played around with it a little bit with it running and when I unplug it and plug it back in the needle moves to the 7-800 range then back to the bottom which is 300. When no power is to it and the truck is off it rests at about 350. Any ideas? New gauge is like 100 bucks and the wires to the plug go down into an giant harness...don't really wanna mess with that... Thanks Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I had a truck where I had a similar problem... turns out it was a rock in the fuel tank and would only have the problem when it moved around and blocked the fuel intake from the tank. It would be a big issue for like a week and then for like 2 months it would be fine then act up again etc. But when it wasn't obstructing the intake she ran mint... until i found that out i was going absolutely batty. Was an E7 also by the way. Thought it was electrical and fuel pump and all that hubub. Hope that helps. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I have an 02 Mack RD and this cold weather is staying for a while. Never plugged it in since it was new... Never had a problem with it starting and still don't, maybe she takes one more stoke at 10 degrees as opposed to 40. Just wondering if there is a way to make sure the block heater is still good and not have a cook wires/ have a fire. Should I even consider starting plugging it in at all? Once she kicks it might miss on one or two cylinders for like 5/10 seconds but then smooth as glass. Thanks Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Thanks everyone for all info so far... I'm gonna have the dealer run the vin and see what they come up with. As for the pyro i now know where to start. Time to play. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I had a truck where I had a similar problem... turns out it was a rock in the fuel tank and would only have the problem when it moved around and blocked the fuel intake from the tank. It would be a big issue for like a week and then for like 2 months it would be fine then act up again etc. But when it wasn't obstructing the intake she ran mint... until i found that out i was going absolutely batty. Was an E7 also by the way. Thought it was electrical and fuel pump and all that hubub. Hope that helps. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

I'm No expert but it sounds to me like she ain't getting oil up there. Don't know how to test something like that either Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk