ivanuke

I would imagine it is possible and a great idea, I see an issue with the frame twisting though, since the front axles wont have the same control.

Inclinometers can be mounted at the front and rear of the chassis. The delta value would give you the chassis flex if any can really help monitor and see what your chassis is doing, additionally they can be placed at the rears of the box itself, heading and tilt can give you enough information to make sound decisions as a driver when your dumping your load.

I bring sad news today, our beloved Mack Technician has been removed from BMT, his forum spirit still lingers seeking closure and brings with him a message from the forum afterlife.. he wishes for everyone to know he cannot communicate with the countless people he has helped and continue to ask questions in this amazing thread, while his account does not reflect any status of being removed, he assures behind the scenes hes been hit and does not have access to his PMs or posting. His technical contributions to this forum have saved me so much time and money in my own business and was my favorite go to expert anything Mack related truly a great resource that will be missed. I hope this thread continues on and helps many others just as he would have intended. Let us take a moment in remembering a great contributor to this forum!

I never understood why dumps have one single cylinder right in the middle, i know the pros and cons but Its all the same style. For one the stability when you're in bumpy terrain and you dump and have to move forward that bed rocks back and forth and i just cringe. Ive thought of several ideas, i always think back to having dual cylinder design with them mounted at the front corners, and the front edge of the box rounded off, just eliminates the 90 degree bends and the dog house all together. 2 smaller cylinders to share the load would cause less stress, but more moving parts, its all a delicate balance lol.

Hey guys, I've started to fabricate my own dump body for some of my mack granites, for the most part I am happy with the design ive drawn up using Fusion 360, ive included a render. I'm going to start fabricating these boxes for friends and family that have dump trucks as well as reach out to local truckers. My question to you guys that have been in the business a long time and are currently in the business is what kind of features would you like to see in a modern dump body design? I have an electrical engineering and mechanical background so no idea is too crazy to make happen in my opinion. Some of the ideas I have include tilt sensors for alarms during dumping in case the incline gets too much, cameras on the back and sides (for when you activate turn signal switch or reverse you can get video feed for better view). A dual acting hinge for side swing or conventional opening. Currently making these out of 1/4" mild steel with a semi round bottom. I want to tailor my design around safety, and to me one of the sketchiest things about maintenance is blocking the dump body when its in the air to remove the hoist when its time to change. even though you can have it pretty secure i would rather avoid that all together. Maybe a design that allows the removal of the hoist while the bed is all the way down would be a safer alternative. Any ideas that you guys might come up with are appreciated. Thanks.

Selling my 2006 Mack Granite CV713. I purchased this from a salvage auction and rebuilt for personal use. I decided I to persue other business ventures and will sell for what it cost me to rebuild. Price 30k Firm 577k Miles AMI 370 10 Speed Maxitorque Multi speed reverse Camelback Suspension All New OEM Mack Camelback Insulator Pads and Bolts New Front Springs and Shocks New Electric Tarp System New Headlights New Clearance Lamps New Brake Chambers New Brake Drums New Brake Shoes All fluids changed (engine oil, coolant, transmission, diff) New Premco dump pump New Hydraulic Hoses Rebuilt Parker Dump Hoist New Slack Adjusters New Power Steering Gear New Fuel Pump All Filters replaced (Coolant, oil, air) Lots of other things I am forgetting, come take a look at the truck. Main issues are only cosmetic as the cabin was hit on the driver side, everything is 100% functional.

I have an 05 CH with a 427 Aset AC. When truck leaves the yard i have been hearing the exhaust have a chatter sound when going low speeds. Driver hasnt complained about power loss or anything. No exhaust leaks found, It sounds as if the fuel is not being delivered properly. Best way I can describe it is like a muscle car with a huge cam exahust sound. Fuel filter just recently replaced. Any ideas? Thanks.

I have 140ft wide property that I clean out every other day because people throw trash and beer cans in it as they drive by. I've seen all "life forms" aka human beings in all shapes sizes and colors do it. Scum bags are scum bags regardless of what you look like. I live in a pretty diverse area of houston, and go to Rudys regularly, i always see people throw out their trash.

Check your tanks, I remember my CHN had similar issue, I changed fuel filter and didnt help. I drained my entire tank both sides and refilled with new diesel, that fixed the issue.

You can download the v-mac III service manual here. https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6156 Just click the view file hyperlink and it will download, at the end of the manual you will see troubleshooting steps for your codes. As for lack of power i dont have much experience on what may be the issue but anything sensor related can be found in the manual.

1" crushed concrete. Would you recommend I do 6" slab, with rebar on top and bottom or wire mesh top and bottom? I do have 20 ton bottle jacks but I always put a 1/4" 1x1ft steel plate underneath. In houston there is A LOT of humidity, I want to have the shop insulated but I don't know if that would keep the floor from sweating. Should I invest in a vapor barrier?

Yep I'm in Houston, we rarely see freezing temps. I don't think we got any this past few years. Maybe a day or two. The majority of my property is covered with 4-6" of crushed concrete that my trucks are parked on. I was planning on bringing in select fill as a base for the slab and compact it. Would it be a good idea to add a layer of crushed or would it not make a difference.

Two are gunite companies (not sure the proper term for the truck they use) The other companies have readimix that they bring to you in barrel trucks. Shop will be 50x80 and is accessible at all sides, can most barrel trucks reach half way? I will get pros to do the finish thats for sure, but I have experience with framing and rebar so I will do that myself (I still have somewhat of a good back lol)

Wow thanks guys for all the awesome advice! I will be doing the work myself. Forming and doing the rebar only. There are 4 concrete plants in the same section of commercial property where my shop is. Two gunite companies and two companies with barrel trucks. Cemex being one of them. I think I will budget for the 6" slab. Thanks for everyones advice especially JoeH for the detailed info!

What thickness would you guys recommend for a truck repair shop? I will be building a shop soon to service my fleet of dump trucks. Ive outgrown my 35x50 shop that has a 12" slab. That to me seems overkill. I am thinking 6" slap for the new shop. Any recommendations so the slab holds up for many years? Will also be adding a gantry crane in the future to lift dump beds and other items so I would most likely put grade beams for that.

I would remove the battery terminals from all 3 batteries and check each one individually one by one with a volt meter. There may be weak or dead cells in them. I would get them tested at your local auto parts store if you cant test yourself, this would be the least expensive diagnostic step to take imo.

Does it go through the motions again when you let off the key with the charger on it? Could be a battery issue, a starter solenoid, or ignition switch. I would look at those closely first.

Anyone know where I can purchase the mack granite CV713 black fender outlines? I can't seem to find any online that look like original oem ones.

Thanks for the info! I just looked up the kit and its $760! Invididually the pads are $20-30 from other brands. I guess its worth it if they last even 3x-4x as long!

Its time for me to replace some of the insulator pads on my camelback suspension . I came across this video . Anybody have experience with using these pads vs any other brand? Does it really improve ride quality as they say. Thanks. . Any

If you have no use for a dump truck its a good idea to convert. Depending on the condition of your dump box you could sell the whole system for a few thousand.

I've compiled a list of over 800 mack service bulletins to help those that might not be aware of certain bulletins for their trucks, I believe these are up to 2009 only just based on descriptions. Feel free to add to the list. I've attached an excel. If you'd like it in a word document or something else just let me know. If you visit https://macktrucks.vg-emedia.com/ and in the keyword search box you type in the service bulletin number. You can click on the service bulletin Number hyperlink in the search results, then select Print/Save File and it should download to your computer. Mack Service Bulletins Updates.xlsx

What are the blink codes? with the ignition on, Turn off cruise control and press the DECEL button, count the number of flases between pauses.

If its a 2 wire VRS sensor, polarity does not matter. It will generate an AC voltage and your autometer should be able to display the MPH. I would assume it would need to be calibrated some how, but i could be wrong i've never used aftermarket speedometer.

What year is your truck