Mack Technician

Going to vote no on CH, maybe on vision. The progressive spread frame on the Granite front would be difficult. Level of determination would play a big roll in the success of your experiment.

9 hours ago, fjh said:

Fooling v Mack ! 

Thinking you can’t manually fool V-Mac I or II, even with base timing advance. We cold weather bump a couple degrees, for start up at that advanced base setting...just to get first smoke. Once the econovance pressurizes and begins to hunt and compensate it uses engine position sensors to take you right back to where Mr.Software wants you to be, even with base advanced, so long as you don’t exceed the degrees it can compensate.

V-Mac II has the potential to make twice the advertised HP if properly modified. Don’t recommend it, or fully understand how, but I witnessed it. 

You would probably end up with a Muncie 828S-M6513-D3A1 PTO in our shop. Go to the Muncie spec assist on the website. You can walk through the set up by answering questions it asks. Really, ethically, the dealer you buy your PTO from is responsible to get you set up. Then you can come back with an oily PTO if you have a problem. You do best at body installers than a Mack dealer. 

General rule on PTO is go big. You will have a guessing game to figure your torque running through the PTO. We went to 82 series Muncie because when the PTO goes it takes your trans with it. 

We always used a driveshaft between pump and PTO for log loaders. The pump your going to use is a bit large and will likely never come with a face mount option. 

On a 2100 the PTO window uses 5th/10th gear. We installed to left front trans window, seemed like chassis favors it on most trucks.

If your three line I'd bet a double-gear pump running 2,700 PSI with around 30/30 GPM or 25/25 GPM, 55 gallon res.

Like the top mounted Jib-boom cylinder design, save a lot of ding'ed up chrome rods. Heavy to haul, but the reaction link is similar to what Volvo uses in a lot of apps.  

2 hours ago, chilge01 said:

I know this is an old thread, but i'm looking to put a wet kit on my 84 mack mh613 with the  t2100 and am looking for some guidance. Local mack shop has no idea what parts to order. I'm trying to set it up to run a three line wet kit for pulling a logging trailer with grapple loader.

What size log loader and pump fit is a must know? You need to figure out your flow/pressure demands to know percentage for Pto. Pump direct mounted to pto? Pto driveshaft otherwise? Etc...

We discovered the cure for injector cup leakage. Don't ask the engine to put out more than *400 horsepower. Four D13's, no injectors replaced to date, 330 horsepower. Shooting for 25,000 hours without a cup or injector failure on the oldest machine, it's starting to get an audible injector "pock" under load, but still performing on original 6.  

Clever use of what you have Joe. At the end of the day you don’t have a flow pump tool sitting in your way (fuel rotting) till you need it again in 6 years.

58 minutes ago, fjh said:

Glen 400 psi sounds a little low how ever it does make some sense the pressure would have to be lower than the injectors cracking pressure! Tech ,That said  the guy with the failed piston likely had a bad injector to add to the advanced timing issue, we once had an engine come to the shop pump installed by the owner and all 8 pistons were burned up by a ill timed pump! On The Timing subject , I have used the remove the delivery valve method with a little different twist ,for years and it never failed me once !The method I was taught  as follows ! remove #1 Delivery spring and needle valve reassemble hold down nut to pump , remove the inlet fuel line to pump make up a #6 one ended fuel line to fit on to the inlet Set the engine on the suggested  timing mark  Loosen the pump slot bolts leaving the top one snug on install  loosen that snugged bolt after the pump is on  and simply blow thru the hose you installed on the inlet and turn the pump till you can't blow or just see the tiniest amount of bubbles  at the #1 line connection on the pump  and simply lock it off at that point! Then test your set by turning the engine back a 1/4 turn and move back to the prescribed timing mark! 12 -24 degs  depending on the model and year! It's fun to see everyone's different methods of getting it done  !😁

The above method is best used when installing a new or reman pump as everything is off anyway and can be done with out getting fuel allover the place or just hooking up minimal lines! 

Never used air, that’s new to me. We had an electric flow pump loop set-up and that was what I was taught as the single method.

It’s been 12 years....., but didn’t you guys also remove the puff limiter and jig it with the solid preset dummy?  

A shot of Green Loctite couldn’t hurt.

Had a road call for a guy who need me to time a pump he installed. The port closure was screwing up and machine wasn't doing it for me. Called my shops "Mack old timer" and stepped through it again with him, having done it myself a dozen times. I was doing it right, but something was wrong with either my side or the pump side. Told customer you need to let us return tomorrow morning to complete this once we figure out what's going on. He was the shop's mechanic, he was watching me the whole time. Next morning he called and said "don't come, I got it going, runs great". I asked what he did. He said "I got it set using the priming pump". Two weeks later I was replacing his piston that had a hole burned through it. He made the situation much worse. Make sure you get it right.   

Click on...…

Who would pay $$$$ for a truck that was rolled over onto a 4 year old who became a reanimated, murderous, mini-zombie...… unless it was a Mack Superliner.

Pull the oil pump relief cartridge. If it’s galled clean it with a fine grit. Check the seating face seal taper. View it as valves in a head.... is it clean? and even halo where it engages the seat? no erosion or pits? Keep a sample of the oil and send it in to see if you have presence of soft metals. If your pressure is low, and your pump looks ok, you may have spun, and may not especially be main bearings. Pump’s rotating group rarely fails, have seen parts of pump fail on multiple occasions. 

Lot of folks buying junk engines these days sold by people who oil test. In other words “people who know exactly when to sell”. 

Pull the front driveshaft off the front diff. Split the power divider case by removing flange bolts. Inspect and replace inner cam and peanuts. Outer cam is seldom bad. Reassemble with two rubber bands holding peanuts into cage, rotate slightly as you engage. Clean magnet tray. Fill power divider before running.

1 hour ago, mcratchet1 said:

Thanks for all the help ended up putting new cam and rollers in working on #6 eup tappet bore pin part# 20706385 are these just pressed in? having a hard time trying to get it to tap out, does anybody know of a certain way to remove pins? Thanks!!

Interference fit. I’ve always pounded them out with a punch. Not always fun. Imagine #6 is nearly impossible to get a decent swing on. 

I'd check oil pressure spec, I'd run a continuity checker to the pump switch to visibly watch when my pump position sensor is opening/closing relative to heads coming in and out of function (maybe even a makeshift test light), adjust overhead brake according to attached sheet and last, (if that didn't help) install a rebuild kit/update if they still make them.

Timber.pdf

From the title..... does that mean the E-brake starts becoming intermittent above 1,500 and gets worse as RPM's descend, or the E-brake is only intermittent above 1,500 but stable at lower engine speeds?

Project Grape Vine must be a truck so sweet that you travel hundreds of miles and don’t speak of it on BMT till you hands are on the hood and cash is down on the accepted offer. 

The pics off my iPhone 6 are always sideways to the normal perspective. The best way I have found, so far, is to send my pic to my Gmail at a reduced size and post off my Gmail. Otherwise I send them to my laptop, reduce the file's size and upload with few issues.

2 hours ago, TimberJack said:

Ok thanks, someone was telling me I had to make sure it had the right cam before I could do it. 

Open the attachment, it will give you the camshaft match/breakdown and tool number.

Timber.pdf

I’d check on what components I need for the south side of the firewall. Kit may not include 2 pos switch, relays(qty 2/hi-lo), 10 amp fuse for hole 22(if you don’t already have one there for neutral switch). I’d also get a jake adjuster feeler fork. The housing won’t be painted so I’d grab a can of Mack Gray(assuming Volvo hasn’t discontinued it). Check the supplied valve cover ribbons to make sure they gave you 4 (not 2) and if they are bonded (updated) and not open ended(string cut). Replace with updated bonded ribbon if not.

22 minutes ago, 2000CL713 said:

my CL tach does some funky shit sometimes too. like id me at a set MPH on the highway and the RPM will start to jump around but it does sound like the motor is raising its rpm speed as well. but its does it fast. not sure what it is. doesnt anyways do it. never could understand or come to idea what would do it. 

Swap in a known-good tach head.

Clean your flywheel housing sensor. They tend to pick up clutch metal on magnetic tip.

On 4/3/2019 at 9:56 PM, 41chevy said:

No housing being built in Virginia. There will be something dusty, noisy and 24/7 though on 95% of my 1100 acres.

The Veteran Houses will be built in Maine between South Portland - Scarbourgh area and Gorham on 60 acres of horse farm that was my sisters.

Cheers Paul,

At least if your building in Maine the Vets will have reasonable access to Moxie.