Keith S

They look good to me. I'm going to make my own too - I can work on them a long time for the $500.

I'm also looking for window regulator parts. Did you find any of those spring washer parts?

I have a '59 B46 needing new linings. Where did you buy your linings? Did the linings come pre-drilled? My shoes have twelve bolts. My truck also has two sets of left shoes. The right side has a set of left shoes mounted up-side-down. Are the shoes symmetrical so that this does not matter? Also, I have two different spiders. The left side is an aluminum job that's a little different. It does not have the rear bolt that prevents the shoe-pins from walking out. Has anyone replaced a spider with a new one?

I might be interested in two tank brackets. Shipping to Florida, 32605

That aluminum chamber bracket was a mess - some serious galvanic action. Someone did a little grinding on the S-cam shaft to align with the slack adjuster. I found a pair of chamber brackets and slack adjusters for a CRD78. Naturally these were in the NE. How is it that everything is located in the NE? Brakes are a little worse than I thought. Left side is dry. Questions: I'm looking for: Brake shoe linings Wheel bearing seals Hopefully not drum(s) but... Maybe an S-cam shaft S-cam bushing kit(s) Are these things off-the-shelf items? Should the clevis pin and slack adjuster be a snug fit? I used serious heat to remove the clevis pins. Are these usually replaced after heating? Is there a spring kit for the brakes? Big socket for adjusting the bearings - how expensive is this? Advice and ideas on what else to look for.

The chamber brackets: When I was taking Before pictures I noticed that when viewed from the front of the truck, the left chamber (mounted to the alum. bracket) is much closer to the ground and at a different angle. My first thought was - wtf. That's why I want to replace it. So far I haven't found anything close to either one. Any idea on who might have one? I might repair the wheel hub. As for the gear ratio... A quick check; The driveshaft turns 3+ times to once for the wheel. Could it be a 3.54? I thought I read that some of the stamped numbers dealt with tooth count? Maybe that wasn't for a Mack? As for the differential: It's a dual reduction and has a ton of backlash - the driveshaft has maybe 5 degrees of play. Is this normal if the differential has a Power Divider? I'm going to change the fluid so I'll get a quick look down the filler hole.

I'm rebuilding '59 B46 and have some brake questions. Brake chamber sizes: I have Type 12 on the front (5-11/16" dia.) and Type 30 on the rear (8-1/8"). Is this a common configuration? The rear chambers are mounted on two different cast brackets - one cast iron, one cast alum. They are different shapes. I'd like to replace the right (alum) to match the left (iron). Or... There are chamber brackets welded to the differential. Looks like I'd need a lot of parts ($$$) to move the chambers to these bracket. And ... some additional photos.

I'm rebuilding a 1959 B46 and have some brake questions. Brake chambers: I have Type 12 on the front (5-11/16" dia.) and Type 30 on the rear (8-1/8"). Is this a common configuration? The rear chambers are mounted on two different cast brackets - one cast iron, one cast alum. They are different shapes. I'd like to replace the right (alum) to match the left (iron). Or... There are chamber brackets welded to the differential. Looks like I'd need a lot of parts ($$$) to move the chambers to these bracket. And ... some additional photos.

What's a line sheet and how do I get one. It's a 1959 B46.

J Hancock: When you say that casting number is still available, what do you mean? I've found several salvage 8QJ414 hubs, but they're all in the northeast - shipping to FL is $250. Anyone know of a cross reference for this hub?

Found the first major part needing to be replaced: one of the rear hubs is cracked. Two different hubs, the good one (except for a Helicoil) is casting 8QJ414. The other one is repaired or something. It's casting number is close to: 8QJ8131P1. I'm mot sure what its deal is. When removing the paint I hit some powdery residue then some soft shiny "metal". A lot of it; The "Mack" logo is barely visible. It's too hard for lead. Anyway, I found a couple 8QJ414 on line but before buying one I thought I check here first for ideas and concerns. Anyone have insight on what to look-out for with used hubs?

It looks nice, but seems like a lot of things are unfinished for something that's "Fully restored". Either my '59 is/was wrong, or the radiator core-to-firewall X-brace is upside down (and rusty and not painted). Are the grill louvers movable? If so, anybody have pictures of the mechanism? As far as "correct paint" and bolts and... I say build it like you want it - just don't hack it up. I'm converting my '59 to all electric. Probably about 5 different paint colors; cast iron parts will look like cast iron; black phosphate; gray springs; steel bushings & U-bolts... etc. I'm also going for the big yellow 10,000 lb Tonka Truck paint scheme. For the interior; I haven't decided how far to deviate from the original paint scheme, "Any color you want as long as it's all green".

I just removed the original gasoline engine from a 1959 Mack Model B-46. It has a rod through the block. The crank spins Starter is ok Tu-flo 500 air compressor is rebuilt Flywheel, clutch and bell-housing are not included Misc. parts and pieces, fan, water pump, intake & exhaust manifolds included I hate to sell it for scrap, so if you or anyone you know is interested in it let me know. I live in Gainesville, FL.