kevink1955

Not only designed and built but painted also, great job.    Research really made the difference

Why are both front wheels toed in, whats bent/broken

Good to know she still exists, for a while it was looking like it was scrapped.  Hopefully the current owner will someday consent to a reunion.  Good luck, keep  us informed on any movement

it's been 2 months, any updates

We need to remember the NFPA has NO regulatory powers, they are not a government origination. They can only make recommendations

From the NFPA main page

"The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) is a global self-funded nonprofit organization, established in 1896, devoted to eliminating death, injury, property and economic loss due to fire, electrical and related hazards.

Our vision: We are the leading global advocate for the elimination of death, injury, property, and economic loss due to fire, electrical and related hazards.
Our mission: To help save lives and reduce loss with information, knowledge, and passion.

NFPA delivers information and knowledge through more than 300 consensus codes and standards, research, training, education, outreach and advocacy; and by partnering with others who share an interest in furthering our mission. NFPA membership totals more than 50,000 individuals around the world."

All the above is great but they fail to mention that the majority of their funding comes from manufactures that provide equipment to the fire service who just may benefit from NFPA's " Recommendations"

Lets all take their Recommendations as what they are, Just recommendations and not law.     

Your Grandfather has neat toys,  care for it well

When you finally get the operators instructions follow the instructions about engine RPM in PTO. I think they call for 1200 RPM, make sure you run it at the required RPM. These trucks used a hydraulic system that is called "closed spool"  When you engage the PTO the hydraulic pump charges the system accumulator to the operating pressure, once the operating pressure is reached the pump unloads and fluid is returned to the inlet.

If the RPM is not high enough to reach operating pressure and unload the pump will dead head fluid and generate enough heat to burn the pump up in minutes.

This system makes some weird noises that if you are not used to them will scare the crap out of you, when the pump is charging the accumulator it sounds like it is loading down and getting ready to blow up.  When you retract the outriggers on a hard surface the entire truck will shake and growl, once you see how the outriggers work you will see why, they drag on the ground for several inches as the truck tires return to the ground.

Never be afraid to use the jacks and outriggers to lift the entire truck off the ground, run them till they are completely extended then put the pins and forks in. the outrigger pins are electrically  interlocked to the boom system and the boom will not operate in less properly pinned. Old systems used a solenoid  lockout on the boom/jack diverter, new/referbs used a hydraulic solenoid to divert fluid and do not have a boom/jack lever.

Only time you would not fully extend the jacks and outriggers is on a very uneven surface where you need to level the truck out. Leave that type of operation for the experienced  operator .  Last lesson for tonight, when the boom is swung 90 degree to the cab and fully extended either right or left the opposite side outrigger may float several inches above the ground, as long as the pins are in it's normal and the truck will not roll over but it is unnerving

It's a great truck, have fun with it

If it's anything like the other GM push rods it has either guide plates or a precision hole in the head as a pushrod guide. There should be a clean spot where it rubs the guide, that would be the top

Remove the cushions from the drivers side jump seat, That's where it was located in the 75 CF. I have also seen the newer Leece Nevile sold state regulators mounted behind the drivers seat

I see a jack stand under there but please be careful using cement blocks as jack supports. They can fail without warning, I do see that you have it cores vertical and have something under the jack to spread out the weight but all it takes is a slight imbalance to cause the block to fracture. Please be carefull.

Wish I could help with the brake question but I do not know. If the rest of that truck winds up as clean as the brakes it will be a real nice rig.

Nice truck but can you say Air Horn in the Ear, look at the horn placement in the photo

Back around 1981 Pierce had a short wheelbase Dash Pumper that had an International 7.3 (I think the same as the Ford) we test drove 1 and it ran OK but they used a side mounted PTO for the pump that had a torque limit so the largest fire pump it would support was 1000 GPM. We needed 1250 min.

We went with a Detroit 6V92ta with an Alison tranny and a split shaft Waterious transfer case 1250GPM pump.

It was our first Non Mack truck, after being used to the low speed 4 stroke Mack the Detroit sounded like it was revving 5 grand. It was a good truck, We purchased another in 1985, same 6v92 but with DDEC electronic engine controls. It ran even better than the 81's.

NFPA killed both trucks with their inside seating rules, no longer could you hang off the back step.  All our pumpers are now 4 door cabs (pierce) and the last 3 do not even have back steps.

Our last years Pumpers have DEF tanks and low DEF warnings.  they do not de-rate if the DEF is filled within a few days. I am not sure what happens if you ignore the warning, I will ask one of our Chauffeurs next time I am in the Firehouse. Retired but still stop in a few times a month.

Glad you found it. We spent the better part of a weekend back in 1985 looking for the regulator in our Tower Ladder. Monday morning a call to Mack and it was located LOL

Behind the Drivers side Jump Seat, If there is a air pack holder you will need to remove it first, if not just lift up the seat back. Most have keyhole slots so they are easy to remove. If you do nor find it on drivers side try passengers side

I hope that engine was not put together in the same shop that took it apart after failure. That dirt floor is a show stopper, do you need operating room clean - no but at least a clean concrete floor.

I think the new engines are using plastic DOT brake line for all drain and gauge lines. I will look the next time I am in the shop to make sure. 

If that's what they are using you could reuse all the brass fittings, all you would need would be new ferrules  and tube inserts, the DOT brake line is so easy to work with you could have the entire pump re-plumed in a few hours

The valve with the black handle and the 1/4" copper lines is the Master Pump Drain valve.  The copper lines run to all the low points on the pump and allow it to be drained to prevent a freeze up in cold weather.  If the pump was not drained the lines may have split from a freeze up.

I would not rely on the master drain that has not been maintained in years to drain a pump for winter storage

I have not worked on a CF in Years but I think you need to remove the flange and also the cups from the rear joint. Sliding the transfer case aint gona happen as it's part of the pump casting and you would be moving the entire pump, plumbing and all.  

That's assuming it is Waterous or Hale, never seen anything else in a CF but I do not know it all.

They convert the 3 phase AC alternator output to DC to operate the vehicle electrical system and charge the battery's. Newer alternators use internally mounted Diodes to do the same thing.

Last time I saw one was on a 62 Mack fire pumper, it took up a lot of room and Leece Nevile had a smaller Diode/heatsink to replace it.