m16ty

The bearing you speak of, is probably the one that was down in the 1241 when I got it. It's a small needle roller bearing that connects the input shaft to the main shaft. It took out the input shaft with it (wore the bearing surface out). I've got it all fixed up with new bearings, main shaft, and rebuilt the air shift mechanism. It's currently for sale. Another problem I've ran into is the RD822sx uses 1880 u-joints. They don't make a yoke that large for the 1241, so either I've got to have something made, or use one of those funky 2 sized joints. I've found what is supposed to be a good take out 1202 for $3,500. I might bite the bullet on it.

Yes, it has the big kingpin.

David, Do you have any idea of what the real world capacity of these are? I talked to a guy, and he had the pictures to prove it, that said he's hauled 100 tons without problems. I know the military rates them at 70 tons, but they figure ratings very conservative, and are based on going over terrain that nobody would even think of attempting in the real world. I can permit it in TN at 280,000 lb, which would equal out to around 200,000 lbs payload.

When you say "welded", are you talking about welding the joint up solid? I wouldn't mind welding the elbow joint, as it's a piece that wouldn't need to come apart again, but is that a wise thing to do? I assume the joints are there to take up for expansion and contraction, would you take a chance of something breaking if you welded it up solid where it couldn't give?

On my E9, I've got a leak in the exhaust manifold in the elbow on the right side where it turns up to go into the turbo. How hard is this to fix? Since the manifold is made into a bunch of different pieces, I'm afraid when I disturb it, I'll have leaks everywhere. From looking at the manual, it looks like it has something like a piston ring that is inside the joints to seal them. Is there any trick to taking these apart and getting them back together where it won't leak?

My RD822sx currently has a E9 with Mack 12 speed trans. I've been looking for a way to get a lower gear for heavy hauling. I've got a Spicer 1241c auxiliary but everybody I've talked to says it won't hold up in the RD with E9. I've been on the lookout for a Fuller AT1202 auxiliary, but they go from $3,500 for take-outs to $5,500 for rebuilt. Since all I need is a slower off-road speed, I'm wondering if I'd be just as well with a 2-speed transfer case. Seems you can pick up a TC15/TC25 transfer case pretty cheap. I'm wondering if it would be a ok idea to just install one of these transfer cases and just not use the front output?

It will be used to haul heavy oversized loads behind my RD822sx.

Do any of the moderators or admin have a way to get in touch with Mitslplik? I could send him a PM but he hasn't been on the site since the above post. Owning one of these Desert Storm Macks, I'd love to have so more info of his time in theater. Mine is painted white now, but was originally blue. I'd also like to see any more pics anybody has to see if I can spot my truck.

Well, I picked up this trailer at auction this week. I just need to get it home, find a big 5th wheel, and get an auxiliary trans installed in my RD822sx to pull it.

On my RD822sx, E9, if she sits for about a week, you have to give it a sniff of either to get it to start. If you start it every few days it starts fine. Sounds to me like it’s loosing prime. I’ve gave the fuel system a look over and see nothing obvious, anybody have any idea what it could be?

Yes, the original does look like that. It was a White Rogers. The one from Mack has nothing on it except a sticker that says 12v.

No, the one they gave me has the poles around the radius. I’m just concerned that they gave me a starter solenoid, of which most can only handle intermittent use. I usually deal with Watts, but need this ASAP, and didn’t want to wait on shipping. Our local Mack Dealer (McMahon) are idiots.

Does anybody have the Mack part number for the dash solenoid on a 1985 RD822SX? I’m pretty sure all R models are the same. I just picked one up from my local Mack dealer and it looks nothing like the one that came off the truck. I just want to make sure the parts guy sold me a continuous duty solenoid and not a starter solenoid. The new part number he gave me is 8609-98226wr.

We own a warehouse and rented a section out to a guy that repairs fire trucks. Looking at the tandem fire trucks that come in and out, they all are running either Hendrickson air ride or some other walking beam/air hybrid. I’m wondering why this is? I would have thought they would just have standard air ride, unless things like pumpers go off-road more than I figured.

Yes, the load is actually suspended on cables.

This autoclave had been shut down for a few years. But yes, the plant is nowhere near what it was. At the height of WWII, about 6,000 people worked there. Until recent years, there were about 3,000. Now I think they are less than 500.

The load is a autoclave. Used to cure composite airplane wings and components. It's basically just a big pressure cooker.

More pics.

Here is a load we helped with back in the spring. Going from Nashville, TN to somewhere in Mexico. Perkins was just taking it to Laredo, TX where they transloaded it to a Mexican outfit. 230,000 LB, 16' wide, 90' long, and 15' tall. I

Does the rear mount PTO change speed with what gear you are in like the side mount?

That sounds like it. I did notice a roof mount A/C. Is it just a B body on a late model running gear?

A week or so back, I saw a old B model pulling a tanker through TN. It was white, I didn't get the name on the door but I think the state said Connecticut. It had a sleeper and a fairly long frame behind the sleeper. I'm fairly sure it was air ride. Anybody know who it was or seen the truck before?

Isn't that the PTO used to run a winch and whatnot and use max engine HP though it?

No, you are never supposed to weld horizontal on a frame. That's why I don't like the step cut. Another reason I don't like the step cut is the angle changes, that can lead to cracks developing. I will probably be ok, but like with all frame repairs, you need to keep a eye on it for cracks starting. Frames flex a lot. You make a frame where it can't flex in a particular spot, it will break every time.

I've used them. The seal actually spins inside itself instead of on the spindle. You can even put something like rtv on the spindle to help seal a less than perfect surface. You can also pretty much install them by hand, without having to drive them.