Rockwell

Thanks for that feedback. Climate is about 75F. Truck has never done this before, now it does it every time I apply the parking brake and ONLY when I apply the parking brake. As I said, truck runs absolutely perfect and has no active codes.

This is a really weird one... 2011 Mack CXU613, 445 MP8, 580K miles. Whenever I set the Parking brake (yellow knob), my idle shoots way up. Set Brake, motor will idle at 650 RPM for about 5 seconds, then you hear the turbo begin to spool up and the motor revs up to 1200 rpm, as soon as it gets to about 1200rpm, you hear a slight and rapid thumping noise (almost as if the air compressor is kickin on?). At this point the motor will then fall back to 700 and idle normal. It will not do it again unless you release the parking brake and reapply. This ONLY happens when you set the yellow parking brake. Does not happen if I use trailer valve (red knob) to park. Does not happen if i drop to idle at a stop. Only when the yellow parking brake is engaged. This condition just suddenly started out of nowhere, nothing leading up to it. Other than that, everything else about the truck is aces. Starts, runs, pulls great! All temp/pressure gauges are normal. Any ideas anyone? Thank you

Much appreciated Mackpro!

Can anyone tell me the location for exhaust temp sending unit? 2011 CXU 613, MP8. I need the sending unit for the Pyro Guage on dash. Mine is going from 240 to 1250 degrees in sporadic flashes. Is it located in the dpf body? Thank you

Absolutely, at least here in the Northeast, NJ, NY, PA. Freightliner reins dominate with Volvo a close 2nd. Good observation though 👍

I can't get over the way the roof line cuts in so severely over the cab doors. Looks to me like it would be Niagara Falls upon entry and exit in the rain, nevermind ice and snow falling from there. Just looks almost as clumsy as the hood mirrors.

So horribly sad what has become of tough American Bulldog. I feel your pain and wish you swift resolution. Down time kills.

I had this exact same problem, but my MP8 is 2011 with 570K on the clock. They removed the EGR cooler and sent it out to be cleaned.

EPA may have delivered the hit, but you can thank Obama and his administration for the punch! He is directly why you have the Obama Can full of urea on new trucks today

I don't mind being married to the brand whatsoever, in fact, I very much like my truck and the MP8. What I'm sick of being married to is a 5mph derate in the Bronx on a Friday night. Clean air is expensive and I understand that, but I draw the line at paying with my life. Our trucks are our home away from home, our safe havens on the road. My haven ain't so safe during a derate or some other BS in the name of clean air in a bad area or a frigid cold night.

And just so it's stated, the dealer I use actually does excellent work. Slow! But very good. Problem is they wouldnt be an option with a tune. I'm not in search of someone to do the tune. I'm in search of a good mechanic for after I've done the tune.

I'm in the Wayne, NJ area. I'm not having any specific issue at this moment. But when I do have issues, I'm getting tired of the Mack dealer constantly taking 1 week to fix anything, no matter how small. In addition, and to be honest, I'm also seriously thinking of "tuning" my 2011 compliant motor to run better. I've got a great tuner picked out, but by doing this, I would need a new shop as I'm certain Mack would not work on it, or worse. Seems everywhere I look into, they don't have the software for Mack, and when certain parts are replaced, like injectors for example, they need this. D13 no problem, MP8 no go. I guess because Volvo is so much more popular than Mack they invest in that software.

Anyone know of an alternative to going to the dealer for engine work? Seems every shop I call in NJ tells me they are unable to work on Mack due to not having the computer hookup. Am I trapped with dealers only?

Too funny! I want your hood and you want mine! I've not taken measurements, but by eye only, it sure looks like evening would line up going in my direction, vision to a ch set back. In your direction though, I think the vision hood would not be tall enough at the radiator.

Just a simple follow up in case it helps another down the line. Turns out there is a small metal fuel line that runs behind the separator along side the block. In my case though, oil was leaking from the gasket between the CCV separator and the block. Needed a new gasket. Simultaneously, the vent tube from the CCV had rubbed a small hole into a fuel line below, hence my fuel leak.

For what is worth, had this exact same problem on a Detroit series 60. Red coolant coming out of the fuel water separator. New cups and injectors was the cure.

2011 MP8 suddenly started losing prime. This did not happen slowly over a period of time, but rather very instant. I can now see it is leaking fuel and it seems to be coming from behind the CCV turbine separator on drivers side of engine. Almost as if its coming from the lower mounting bolt of the separator. Very tough area to see. Pump is dry, everything above is dry. Anyone know what's back there? Fuel line or fitting or something? Thanks for your help!

Not so happy after all. Out of nowhere truck throws that fault code and tells me SCR function low - Derate Soon. and wants to do a parked regen. Luckily I was able to make it to delivery and to home as the temps were frigid, not a time to be stranded. Truck is now at Mack since the 1st. 2011 MP8 567100 Miles and 18953 Hours Follow SNM 13-022 Diagnostics Found issue with Nox Values. They advise replace both Nox Sensors as they are outdated and need to be upgraded. Also found EGR flow to be very low . EGR Cooler plugged, remove and send out to be cleaned. Also found intake manifold leaking boost due to broken/missing intake bolts. Total repair ESTIMATE: $3402.28 ($1770.30 Parts;$1305.00 Labor;$222.58 Tax) Hopefully this fixes the problem. If not, I'm already eyeing the OTR Performance SCR and EGR Performance Module. Both these modules would be cheaper than this repair bill. Only trouble is, New Jersey is a stack sniffing state! Happy New Year! I'm off to a great start! Hope yours is starting out better! Enjoy the clean air, its on me!

Thanks for the reply 880, I was not aware the frame is wider on CXU, but I do recall reading that now that you mention it. Hopefully that will be correctable with a few steel brackets. Dunno what to do about tow hook holes. At the moment Im just exploring .

I run a stock Cobra 29 LTD with a Wilson 2000 antenna. I tuned it myself, easy and works great! I paid about $110 for the CB and $57 for the antenna. For another $40 I did add an external speaker but by no means was it a necessity.

Would a CH613 SBA hood directly swap onto a 2011 CXU613? Could this be a direct bolt on replacement with Hinges, fender extensions, & breather intake lining up? For no other reason, I just don't like the look of the CXU broken beak, sloped hood/melted fenders and wonder if I can give my truck a nose lift. As an added bonus, I wouldn't miss the near non-existent CXU headlights either. I would imagine I would also have to swap out the bumper to follow the older hood line as the CH SBA looks more angular that the CXU. If anyone knows, do tell. Thanks!

So my coolant filter shutoff valve located right behind the water pump is leaking and I ordered one from Mack for $80.00. I found a terrific video on to how remove and install but the video stops just short of the actual install. There is nothing more than a compression collar holding the valve in the filter head body. The O-ring above the collar is what seals it, and is probably all that really needs to be replaced. To remove the valve, you just pry up on the roll pin that acts as the valve`s shut off handle. But to install, after I put the valve in place, do I lightly tap it downward to compress the collar? The video I found on YouTube shows the valve being put in position and then ends abruptly. How do I seat the valve snug in the filter head body? Thanks!

I had to replace mine, still worked but was crazy loud. Not a bad job at all, I was able to replace while waiting to unload.

The two switches that seem to cause the most confusion are... Switch with picture of key = extra auxiliary switch, powered only when key is on. Switch with picture of battery = extra auxiliary switch powered all the time regardless of key position. Hope that helps some. Beyond that, we would need specific descriptions or photos from you to help.

Sick sad world today! Glad the driver is A-OK. People that do this need to turn the gun around then fire!