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Ezrider

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by Ezrider

  1. i watched a guy do this one time on a post pulling out of a fuel island. sounded like gun shots going off.
  2. with extreme cold -40 and a clutch brake covered in grease was what was making me think the grease might have had something to do with it. its possible you might be onto something but the issue hasn't repeated itself yet. for a truck with a hired driver id defiantly be setting the clutch brake so you had to shove it into the floor. i know how to drive a truck so i like it to be up a little. i went to the babcock clutches cause i was having issues with the hinged 2pc ones that you set by pressing the clutch coming un hinged. id loose my clutch brake pull the cover and it would be sitting ontop of the cover undamaged but unhinged. you could put it back on but it was annoying. ill be sticking with manuals until im no longer driving...many years ago i drove a eaton 18 speed auto for a day by the end of the day i couldn't wait to get out of that truck.
  3. the clutch brake adjustment itself is in the linkage but set the clutch first then adjust the linkage, check and make sure your clutch brake is not damaged and replace it if necessary.
  4. i generally use the 2pc seals for trouble wheel seals as well. installation is easier than the sleeves and no special tools and they work good.
  5. sticky unloader valve can cause the compressor to not build air.
  6. or get a 359 has so much class and pride it doesn't need a class and pride emblem on the sleeper.
  7. the budd wheels are stud pilot, use a tapered ball and seat to center the rim on the hub. hub pilot witch is the later 10 hole style are hub pilot the wheel centers on the hub and the nuts clamp it in place. one common misconception is that is that a stud pilot wheel the weight of the truck is carried on the stud and hub pilot the weight is carried on the hub. neither is true. the weight is carried by the faces being clamped together the difference is just in how they locate the wheel on the hub when mounting them. here is a video i did converting the steer axle on my old peterbilt from budd to hub pilot. the rear ends were converted because everything on the rear of the truck is off a 2010 truck
  8. last time i looked at them they were a lot more than $100 might need to look again
  9. iv seen a number of shops using them. i have used them before and they are slick. too spendy for me though. a good set of ken-tool bars is easy to dismount with as well just takes a few times of doing it to get the feel for it. if i did tire work every day id certainly have one though.
  10. id love to have a early bronco but im priced right out of the market on those...lol
  11. our govoner has been fairly level headed compared to most. still don't agree with some of it. but even then he has been under pressure from other states that he is not doing enough even though i recently saw a report that our hospitals in the state are currently only at %1 of capacity.
  12. yup, i was always told your suppose to rotate your tires often to keep them true. im not sure that it makes them last longer like they say though, i seem to go threw tires pretty quick esp in the rear. maybe i am doing it wrong
  13. we got a bit last week maybe a inch luckily it melted pretty fast. with getting a major snowfall first week of October this winter it feels like its just never going to end.
  14. with a little tire smoke....lol gotta blow off a little steam every now and then
  15. i much prefer base clears. i feel they hold up better and give a better appearance. as far as having to sand it, you don't have to sand in between your base and your clear unless your outside of the re-coat window, you don't need to sand it afterwards unless you want to. i can shoot pretty darn flat most the time i leave it as it lays unless its something where i really want that perfect Finnish. ill just spot any flaws or dust nibs and and then buff. clears are also easier to fix if you have issues or damage in the future.
  16. https://safer.fmcsa.dot.gov/query.asp?searchtype=ANY&query_type=queryCarrierSnapshot&query_param=USDOT&original_query_param=NAME&query_string=3039591&original_query_string=HERMS TRUCKING INC https://safer.fmcsa.dot.gov/query.asp?searchtype=ANY&query_type=queryCarrierSnapshot&query_param=USDOT&original_query_param=NAME&query_string=1027641&original_query_string=HERMS TRUCKING LLC dont know if that helps you out any
  17. looks sharp...lol iv got a couple trucks he can do if he wants to travel....lol
  18. iv always just used the mack branded ones from the dealer. normally get about a 10-12 months out of them before they start leaking then there only a couple months from riding a pogo stick after that. normally run around 80-90k miles a year. 2000cx613 i too would like to find something better but sounds like mine have been doing better than what yours have been.
  19. Upon a second glance and noticing the front suspension looks like it's probably a f100....lol
  20. You and I both lol. Credit though for taking on that project I hate putting stuff back together that someone else took apart. Atleast being a c10 shouldn't be two bad and really good parts availability to be able to find all the bits and pieces that have probably been lost
  21. For sure look forward to warmer weather to get the jag out again I heard were supposed to get some more snow moving In tomorrow. It's been a long winter this year with first snow first week of October but atleast we haven't had a whole lot of bitter cold this winter. I think the pics still work if you click on them. If not I'll try re posting some of them again sometime me and computers just don't get along....lol Thank you 👍
  22. yeah kinda am....lol trucking has slowed up the last few weeks so i knocked out some big tasks on the truck while i have some extra time. this weeks been kinda slow peterbilt is on jack stands in the shop waiting on some parts for the front end. so my shop is kinda tied up. so been kinda tinkering and relaxing this week. kinda nice to catch your breath for a min. got to get the mack in the shop soon and gone over before spring fertilizer season hits. then it will be back to balls to the wall again....lol
  23. i replaced the harness on my 2000 there was quite a few places the injector portion of the harness was chaffed cracked ect. i don't have a diagram handy to help you out but. once you get it fixed for now i would consider planning to replace the harness in the near future. i used to have all kinds of phantom codes that would come and go on my truck new harness solved all of that was a worthwhile repair imo.
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