Hobert62

8 minutes ago, Ditchdiggerjcf said:

Then it would have been nice of you to start with a less complete truck rather than butchering a complete one. IMHO

You must be a skinny midget or never been around a b67 with a concave cab then.   It was a running driving truck when I bought it.  I drove it a couple month before I cut the frame off behind the cab for the stretch.   Kinda defeated the purpose of the short hood and cancave cab   With the new 16’ wheelbase.   

3 hours ago, HeavyGunner said:

What about one of these?

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-60659.html?cid=paid_google|||60659&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoo3294Sa6AIV2CCtBh0Pwgu-EAQYASABEgL52vD_BwE

I have one similar but without taking heads off there’s no way it would fit.   Being a b67 my front end is 8” shorter then a standard B.    The back 1/3 of motor is crammed in a dog house under the dash.   

37 minutes ago, Rob said:

After removing the intake manifold, bolt onto the ports a strip of 1/2" steel with a pair of clevis or eyes welded to it. You can "pick" from these points and the engine will want to roll slightly as it breaks free of the bellhousing. It's more manageable if the transmission is removed from the truck first.

Do you have an SAE#1 housing on the Cummins, or using the original transmission? I would be interested in any leftover parts you may have from a B-67 for mine.

I like the idea for using intake.         My new setup uses a #2 bell housing.  I will pretty much everything left from driveshaft yoke to fan.   

2 minutes ago, Freightrain said:

Hey, look at this way....you could be putting a Detroit in it!!!!  Lol.

I’m hoping to get rid of my oil leaks not get more.  Lol

I like the real air horns.    I wish I would have put taller garage doors in my shop so I could do that.   

Question about b67 specifically.  Where do you hook to engine to pull from the truck?   Just curious do to it leaning and halfway under the cab.   

Guy around here had square aluminum international step tanks and brackets on his.   Not sure what exact truck they where from but looked appropriate  

Just need a few longer bolts and some steel to space the back brackets out.   That kind of thing bothers me too.   I don’t care if it’s factory or not but those details stand out.   

My b67 round tanks were really bad with the short hood. the front brackets were mounted  further forward.   

Here’s what I came up with.     Look what I noticed on the steel I’m using.   The new stuff I bought is USA 🇺🇸.    The older stuff I’m repurposing is Canada 🇨🇦 

1 hour ago, tenfive0 said:

I'm guessing there's a safety switch or pressure relief valve on the human hoist? I'd hate to crush myself to the bottom of my truck between the frame rails.

You know that would happen too

16 hours ago, mackdump600@yahoo.com said:

The notary service I went to brought it up on his computer and said he can't put an antique tag on anything over 10000 GVW it's something they just changed recently I guess I will go back to him and check again thank you for the answers and possible solutions

That is kinda true.  Antique plates do not have a weight rating.     Like asked before. Where are you at?    I’m sure there’s people on here that can recommend a notary that knows what they are doing.     Like said above.  You need proof of insurance before you can do anything for tags.  

I like the little plow setup.   Problem is it gives me ideas my wallet doesn’t agree with. 

Mines also through hagerty 

Idk what that is.   It’s just a small piece welded in from factory by the looks of it.    Kinda like an extra brace?     I’ve seen sever of them throughout the cab

I removed my heater assembly which cleared out some space so the floor dimmer is fine with me.        I will save these other switches for probably forever though.   Now I just have to do some figuring where to cut the hole in the firewall and what boot I’m gonna use.   

I got 2 columns when I got.   I decided to use this one due to the 18” wheel, other has a 20”.   They where both from mr garbage trucks.   I took the extra apart and Larry was right.   Very ugly exposed shaft and spacers.     After further sitting on my garage chair I realized they also had 900 series (non canceling) turn signal switches.  Same as my B but they have dimmer switch.  I was able to switch the clamp and bracket to my already wired switch.   It raised the switch and moved it forward.   

I really don’t know what it is.  I’m guessing just decoration.     It it be nice to move the blinker that much further up though 

The hardest part of the whole project would prob be hooking up the air system for the trailer if the truck is not set up for one. If it is, it’s just a matter of moving it’s location so not that big of a deal.   The hydraulics may or may not work but that could also be as easy as just changing the pump out and still use the pto that came with the truck.    

Sorry had phone held the wrong way when taking pictures I guess.