steve s.

Brian is correct. I would add that if your truck still has the 12/24-volt system and you are going to buy batteries, you can use 2 -12 volt batteries instead of the 4- 6 volts.

Your truck is coming together really nicely. I especially like your idea of the zippers on the shifter boot. If you don't mind, I'd like to borrow that design for my H63. It would be a big improvement over the rubber floor mat I have over that hot and noisy hole now.

Just to keep the facts straight: Brockway became a division of Mack Trucks in 1956. Brockway went out of business in 1977.

You can guess, or you can pay someone to figure it out, but there is a great source of information regarding speedometer ratio adapters not far away: Tom has done a great job of explaining the math for those who want to tackle it. I have just figured out what adapter I need to make the speedometer right after a rear axle change, thanks to Tom.

You're doing a great job, truck looks excellent. Would you be willing to share the part numbers for the cab jack repair parts? My H 63 jack is bad, and I haven't been able to identify it. You might have noticed in the Mack owners manual that it states that the cab should be supported by something other than the hydraulic system when working under it. I usually stick a 4x4 underneath for that purpose. It fits nicely into a small slightly dented area under the cab, where I guess others before me did the same thing. It would be a shame to scratch up your nice new paint that way, but maybe you could come up with a better idea.

Thanks for taking us along on your trip Vlad. Enjoyed you pictures and story. Nice truck. Cruiseliners are not seen too often in my area of Pennsylvania. Yours looks to have a very nice floor. hopefully the rest of the cab is good and solid. I especially like the picture of the Pobeda. I have a Polish version, the Warszawa. Both are very rare in the USA. Steve

The Endless Mountains Antique Truck Show and Flea Market scheduled for Sept. 5th, 2020 has been cancelled . This would have been our 30th annual show at the Harford Fairgrounds in Harford PA. We appreciate all of the support you have given us in the past. The Northeastern PA Chapter , ATCA hopes that you can join us on labor Day Sunday 2021. Steve

I like the International with the backhoe . That must have been a fairly popular idea in the fifties, I have a similar setup on a Dodge chassis.

sent you a pm

Sent you a PM. Steve

You did a great job, looks very sharp. Did you have any issues mating the Cummins to the transmission? Is it a Mack built transmission? What did you use for a clutch? Thanks, Steve

The green and black truck in the picture belongs fo a friend of mine. It is an LJ. He has had it for many years. The hard nose radiator may not be original, but it was on there when he got it. The truck has an early Cummins with a quadruplex. It was built as a single axle with a big 29,000 lb rear. Later the frame was stretched and a dead axle was added. Currently the truck has a newer set of Mack rears on a camleback suspension. The LJ doesn't get driven too much, another friend usually tows it to shows. The H model was made using the L sleeper cab. They are basically the same, but the windshield height is different.

Here is the picture of Dave's B model at the Northeastern PA Chapter ATCA Endless Mountains Antique Truck Show, Harford PA Fairgrounds.

I have a Mack H61T Parts List, #2185, Dated May, 1953. It lists engine parts for the END673, and the Cummins NHB 600, 743 cid, 200 HP.

There will be a two part story on the Australian Mack R800RSX trucks beginning in the January /February issue of Double Clutch magazine. Part two will cover the restoration of Tony Champion's "Iron Horse" seen above. Steve

Victor, Your question is not clear. Something was lost in the translation. Try again.

Great video, and a fine job by Doug!

The sleeper in My H63 is 24" wide. There were non sleeper H models, I have seen them in H-69 and H-81. There probably were others as well.

The bushings are available new from PAI. They are the same as the originals.

You might try contacting John Chalmers in Cashtown PA. I purchased tie rod rebuild kits from him a couple years ago. I think he has been downsizing, but he may be able to help. His number is 717-334-8709. Good luck.

The Australian Mack MIR did use the Brockway Huskiteer cab. If you check your Double Clutch magazine, you will see mention of it in a recent article on Mack Cabovers Downunder, by Gary Richards. There will be a follow up story coming up soon on the MIR. This is the only known use of a Brockway cab on a Mack chassis.

Sunday September 2rd is the date for the 28th annual Endless Mountains Antique Truck Show and Flea Market sponsored by the Northeastern PA Chapter of the Antique Truck Club of America. The Harford Fairgrounds is the location, about halfway between Scranton PA and Binghamton NY. Easy to get to: exit 217 off I-81, follow the signs. All old trucks are welcome, any size, any condition. No registration fee, only $2.00 to enter as a spectator. Kids under 12 enter free. Breakfast , lunch, and ice cream available . Affordable fun for the whole family! Several awards offered, including Best Mack, and Working Class Truck. We always have a lot of Macks on display !

Parts are out there, but you will have to figure out what will work on your truck. You are not likely to find anything being sold as a part "for H model Mack" .The H model cab is based on the L model sleeper cab. Some L model parts will fit , including the doors. The drivetrain shares many of its parts with B and other models. The engine and transmission are basically the same as a B model for instance, but the mounts, fan, radiator, shifters and other pieces are different for the H. If your cab and frame are good and you want to put the truck back together, your best bet might be to find another H model for parts. Most H model parts are interchangeable between the 63 and 67. Good luck, and keep us posted.

I agree you have a very cool truck there. Not a common model at all. Before trying the drill and tap method, I would attempt to rotate the shaft back out of the notch. Pulling it straight out won't work because the ball is probably entirely in the notch. But the rotating shaft might just allow the ball to be pushed back into its hole. Worth a try anyway. Drilling and tapping is a good last resort for sure. That top cover is not that rare of a part that you can't find another one. You might not find an aluminum cover, but there are still triplexes around. Good luck.

Welcome, Jim. I spent last winter doing a tandem to single axle conversion of my B61. The job itself is pretty straight forward . Assuming that the tandem you are talking about is a camelback suspension with top load rears, You probably won't be able to reuse them as a single axle. You will need to find a single axle rear, springs and spring hangers. Then you just basically drill for the hangers, mount the rear, make a new driveshaft, and re plumb the brakes. There are some options to consider, like what gear ratio would suit you best, or do you want to install a modern rear and air ride. Also keep in mind that your DOT may complicate matters if you try to reduce the truck's GVW. You don't have to change the GVW, and maybe it doesn't matter if you tag the truck as an antique. Just another consideration. There are plenty of single axle trucks around.