wrenching4life

Thanks for all your input, I appreciate the responses. 

15 hours ago, Back In Black Pulling said:

Can get a Lipe with higher rating

There's a guy western Pa that will make what ever rating you want Joe Richie is his name can try to get his number if you want

Black in black I would like to give that guy a shout if you have his contact info. Im told what I need is a LIPE 1. What clutch do you run in your truck? I also heard that Dale Francis has a clutch set up he uses that requires the flywheel to have some custom machining done to it, but its supposed to be rated for big power.

Yea the motor has been modified, iv done a lot with it, it's well over factory spec. I had no complaints with the LIPE that was in it just wish the throwout bearing didn't decide to pack its bags and head south.

Hey all looking for some imput for a clutch, currently our Superliner has a LIPE clutch but the throw-out bearing let go and now I am looking for a replacement clutch. Im having a hard time locating someone that sells a clutch that will handle the torque our E9 makes. The LIPE supposedly is rated at 2400 ft lbs. so I figure I should shoot for that rating or better. The truck is street driven, and hauls heavy. I dont want it to slip and I need it to hold the power! The part Number on the LIPE is 380 702L0989

Thanks all.

Well finally got the last two lines bent, polished and mounted, guess what now I have two lines leaking past the threads at the head! One on each side of the engine, I can't win. Does anyone else make oversized lines? 

I doubt they could be welded up, there is not much room for a weld in there the way that they make them 

The reason that made me think my friend was having a spring issue was also that when we got all our engine parts from Dale Francis to do the top end of our engine he also highly recommend putting a spring in, my oil pressure was fine really about where it is now, it may be a bit higher now but the spring was worn. The old spring is the one in the back and the new one is in the front, sure looks like a difference to me. Those shiny spots on the old spring are spots where the coil it worn thin. So before I was going to tell my friend to pull his pan and check the spring I figured I'd see what you guys had to say about it.

I talked to Columbus diesel, Dan Magers and he says the factory torque spec is fine and can not explain why this is happening. I'm waiting my the last two lines and they will all be brand new, he also said that I may have to put an extra mounting clamp up by the pump where they are breaking, anyone done that? Anyone have pictures of how they routed there's? 

Thanks all!

Hey all asking for a friend, just wondering if a broken oil pump pressure relief spring would cause low oil pressure, seems like it would. the truck in question is around 40 lbs at governed rpm and about 30 at idle. Book spec says that's low at governed rpm. My truck as around 80-90 at governed rpm and about 40 at idle, but I have a brand new oil pump pressure relief spring in it. Any thoughts? An yes I put a mechanical gauge on it to check.

thanks all

Well Columbus diesel is standing behind there product once again, there going to make me up 2 more lines. So I guess we will see how these ones go

back in black, where do you adjust the needle lift your talking about? Is that within the injector?

Francis Engineering "built" my injectors, I know on the outside there a Bosch body. I also know that when I was having the "tick" sound in the #8 injector I pulled and sent the injector to Columbus diesel because I did not get any response from Francis Eng., I then sent the injector to Dan Magers at Columbus diesel and he said they had not seen valve tips like the ones I had. And was not able to repair it due to the fact he would have to try to source the part. 

I remember Dale telling me when I was ordering them that they were something like a Bosch body and ambac internals  

Unfortunately I don't, I wish I did I think there is a lot more to work with, for instance my gross weight is 130 with a big machine on the lowbed and the highest I can get the pyrometers is 800-900°

as far as the fuel lines go iv had 2 fail and replaced them, Columbus diesel and myself talked it out and determined that it may have been bad flares so he replaced the other 6.( I just had to send him the tube nuts off the old lines) I get them back, bend them up just like factory sand them and them polish. I re installed the new 6. I fire the truck and now the first one I replaced months ago is leaking at the injection pump like shooting out like a sprinkler. This is exactly what they all have done they seem to crack right at the flare at the injection pump. I don't know what else I can do, the fit an thread in perfectly, I don't have to force anything. 

Any thoughts I'm running out of ideas and sanity 

Thanks all

Back In Black Pulling: the factory spec is: 

nut at injection pump: 25ft lbs

Clamp screw  at cyl head: 35ft lbs

nut on clamp screw: 15ft lbs

are these the specs you follow? Or close to?

These are the specs iv been torquing them to.

Hey all, other than the compressor being worn out, what else would cause oil to come out the air intake on the compressor. It's coming out bad enough that it is oil soaking the air filter to the point it's collapsing.

thanks for your help!

Back In Black Pulling,

I have the same lines as you and I keep having a problem with the lines splitting right at the flair at the injection pump. Francis engineering tweaked my ambac pump and I have injectors done by them as well. I bent  my lines the same as the OE Mack and ran them  in the factory holders/clamps. Perhaps I'm just having just poor luck, have you removed your lines and re installed them at all? I cracked the third line in less than a year (less than 4K miles) on my way home from Gerharts

P.S. That was one heck of a launch at Gerharts this past weekend! Your truck is very impressive! 

Hey all another E9 question that has me puzzled, is anyone using oversized stainless steel injection lines on their E9? If so what injection pump do you have, and have you ever had an issue with them? I'm curious

thanks all!

Well I was finally able to get back on this problem and I can finally confirm the tick noise is the #8 injector. I moved the injector to #4 (opposite side of motor) and sure enough the noise traveled with it. So I pulled the injector and got ahold of Columbus Diesel and they said they would take a look at it, sent it to them they pop checked,tested, and cleaned it. They said nothing was wrong it functions normal, but they did say the spray pattern did seem a little odd. They didn't have another one of my injectors to compare to so they sent it back to me. Re installed and sure enough it still ticks and still misses and shakes the whole truck under very heavy load. All I know is if I watch my burn mirror every time it seems to fire odd a much darker puff of smoke comes out of the stack. I'm lost here other than buying another injector is there anything else to check? Any other thoughts?

Thanks all!

So I'm thinking because I cracked that injector and the tick stopped. There is obviously still compression, an if it was a fire ring problem wouldn't it still make the tick noise?

So does that mean it's an injector pump or injector failure/ problem? Just trying to figure out what is the next step in diagnosis 

Well the truck has been parked and have been busy doing other work, today I had a quick moment and I cracked the #8 injector at the injection pump and it killed that cyl and the ticking noise stopped, closed the line and it was back, so I tried #7 the cyl died when I cracked it but the tick was still there so I think the issue is without a doubt something wrong with #8

Is there a way to test the injectors without a machine to do it? Other than cracking the line at the pump,and trying to blow air through to see if it's stuck open? I'd like to pull the injectors out of that head and check them. And I'll get new injector install o rings and a nozzle seals for when I re install them, because I'm sure those will not be re-useable 

If either of the injectors 7 or 8 we're stuck open they would be letting a lot more fuel enter the cylinder correct? Because there not shutting? And if that's the case it's very interesting that the truck is very "sooty" and the tick noise closely follows the injector pulse, i can feel the injection pulse in the line and it seems every pulse is a tick, could this be the compression coming back in the line?

Yea I totally understand that it's not going to fix itself, will a blown fire ring make a tick almost like an exhaust leak? And will it cause a high rpm, high load skip/miss? I think it would, and I'm kicking myself for not checking liner height. 

Now cracking injectors will that show up at an idle? cause at an idle it sounds and seems to run perfect other than the "tick" noise and I know for a fact that noise is coming from the 7-8 head

Well I was able to get ahold of Dale today, and he seems to think I blew out a fire ring or two. He wants me to retorque the heads all 4 of them and see what that does. 

Yea the miss/skip is some what a violent shake of the truck, the harder you get into it the worse it is. At an idle you would never know there could be a problem other Than the "tick" noise on the #7+8 head 

I'll check the fuel return and see how all the heads differ

I had the same issue, soak them good like Carlotpilot said, all the joints and bolts. If you have no luck apply heat on the  manifold where the bolt your working on is and carefully work back and forth, none of mine were seized in the head only in the manifold, I also cut a socket in half to get into those really tight places. The heat is what worked for me.

Well today I pulled that section of exhaust manifold and checked for issues, none found, re installed with new gaskets. Then checked valve lash I had one a bit tight and another a bit loose, I went and checked all the valves just to confirm that that was not an issue. All we're darn near perfect 

I cleaned the area around the head gasket so I can watch it. Also no pressure was in the radiator tank. Which last time when a head gasktet let go it had tons of pressure.

the heads were not re-torqued dale said I didn't need to until 10000 miles he also told me to torque them at 230 ft lbs, strange iv heard three different torque values, all "dale told me..." i tried contacting him today about this problem, and per usual no call back.

i never messed with the liners or counter bore, and to be honest I didn't check when I had it apart. 

it is odd that it's the same position on the motor as the original problem (pre top end refresh ),(2 broken head bolts)

well after all of that today I finally re fired the truck and the noise is still there, is it possible to have cracked that head in the combustion chamber?

anything else to check? It runs fine, seems to have a bad skip/ miss under heavy load now,idles fine just that ticking noise 

and also to add, this motor has dale Francis's oversized injection lines on it. This head was the one that I had to put a stock injection feed line in it temporary  ( About a month/ 1000 miles) on, #8 the new oversized stainless line cracked at the base of a flair fitting on the injection pump. So dale told me it was fine to run a stock line on it till he could get me a replacement. It now has a new stainless line on it so now everything should fire when its supposed to.

So between the valve adjustment, new exhaust gaskets, new injection line( that now matches the rest) Nothing changed except the heavy load skip/ miss seemed to get worse. I don't know what else to do, clearly somthing is wrong.

all help greatly appreciated!