Mackpro

95 ch613 intermittent electrical problem. At random times no rhyme or reason high idle low idle loaded unloaded moving sitting still normal operating temp cold it doesn't matter, the truck just cuts off sometimes it will start back up sometimes it will not. It will start when the red engine shutdown light and the yellow electric malfunction light comes on then goes right off for the light check. It will not start when those lights do not come on, but the low brake air pressure light comes on very dim. When it does not start engine turns over fine and will continue to turn until you release the key just wont crank. I'm fairly certain that it is a ground problem. I've removed and cleaned all grounds to the block, the frame, and even the batteries. I even tried replacing the ground malfunction breaker next to the starter relay on the fire wall. Does anyone have any ideas what else i might check?

Being this is a pre Etech engineI would replace the ingniton solinoid in the fuse box. Its the large solinoid that has the big red wires going to it. Lots of current goes through this solinoid so it gets hot (which is normal) and they seem to go bad quite often. Use a Mack solinoid and not a Napa Ford starter solinoid as thoses dont last but a week at best.

Just got 2 know, why this Mack does not have the power it should ? '05 Granite w/ Mack 10 speed, 44K on camelback @ 4:42 ratio and 24.5 rubber. No boost gauge on truck seems I drive around with fuel pedal mashed towards floor, and doesn't seem able to get up and go ? Hate the need to constantly stay near redline. Pyro never above 800, no boost leaks, clean filters, maybe grossed out @ 73K is too much for the pup. Thanks.

4.64 gears or low profile 24.5 tires might help get the RPM/torque curve back on track but I have seen many CV's with this spec and be OK. I would take it to the dealer and have them install the latest Datafiles and software in both ECM's ( step 12B software) and calibrate the throttle pedal, this in some cases can make a big difference. These engine usually do a good job as they have the same torque output rateing as the AI427. EPA made Mack drop the AMI370 only after a couple of years due to being way to dirty. A manual boost pressure guage plumbed into the intake manifold is the best way to tell if the engine is getting full boost ( around 30 psi but I dont have my book close by)

The mechanic was asking me the other day "Why haven't you had your truck turned up yet?" I have a 355/380 e7 and I told him it was decent on power and blowing up that motor didn't seem like a good idea. He said that all you need is a new turbo and injectors $$$$$. Can I safely have it turned up a little +- 25 hp WITHOUT changing parts?

If your truck is a 1999, you can bump it to 400 HP with just a download. But on paper your 355/380 puts out 1560 ft pounds of torque. If you bumped to 400 HP your torque would drop to 1460. You might want to stay where your at. Your engine now had the same tourque output as a 427. But to get bumped to a 427 or 460 HP it will involve turbo, injectors and remove camshaft and install an offset keyway in the cam gear to prevent overheating.

Can't make up my mind weather to go with a SCR 2011 or stay with a low mile 2009 or 10 with only DPF.The 2011 with less EGR and with SCR get better fuel mileage and are reported to have less problems.I'm working on gearing now.I run 62 to 65 with 80000lbs.I run Mo,Il, and Wi.I have a 13 spd and 3:58 rears,with 515hp ISX.It might be the ISX cause its a little short on power from 40mph to 60mph.From 25mph to 35mph at 1500rpm it pulls like a dog on fire.If this was an older truck it would tell me to go with 3:70 rears,moving the power to mid range on speed..Whats your take?

We have sold alot of 2011-12's and no problems with the SCR/DPF or engine(except of loose battery/starter cables on every one?) . MPG is great as well as power. Mack and Volvo are beating everybody on MPG when spec'ed correctly and road speed is kept to a reasonable level. The MP engines are much more foregiving when the tire size/rear gear ratio and transmission dont quite match up. Any good salesman can tell you what gears you need to match your tire size and desired cruising speed. When our salesman is ordering a new truck, if he enters a gear ratio or tire size that dont quite go together, it throws up all kinds of red flags and warns the salesman. I've seen him do it!

Should I spec the air assist clutch on my new Mac?Truck is to run regional.

Please just say NO. Mack had so many complaints they came out with a kit to change it back to the orignal cable style.

Iwill advise the county to scrap their water truck. When the poor peoples houses burn from lake of water we can just blame it on Bush

Been a career/volunteer firefighter for 22+ years. I hold IFSAC/Pro-Board Certifications to drive everything with a red light/siren and wheels, including ARFF vehicles. Have worked on several military installations (including a large-frame airfield) as a federal firefighter. I like to think I have the experience to back those pieces of paper up.

The USAF Fuel Tankers are only baffled for "X" amount of fuel (Not sure what the USAF uses but in this case lets say Jet-A which is 6.75lbs per gallon on a ISA (International Standard Atmosphere) day; and only for on a nice, flat and leve airport surface at 35-38 miles per hour, which most of them rarely see.

Again, not sure what the tank capacity is, in this case lets say 5000 gallons. 5K of Jet-A weighs 33750.

5K of water (at 8.3lbs per gallon) weighs 41500. Quite a bit of difference.

The first question is, have they checked with their liability insurance carrier to see if they would be able to get insurance on the converted vehicle? Many Fire Department Insurance Carriers will not insure a converted fuel tanker. That being said......

-Is this tanker's GVW capable of handling 5K of water versus 5K of Jet-A???

-Is the driveline capable of handling the difference???

-Have they installed proper baffles inside the tank for highway/road useage???

-Will they be properly training the banker, the butcher, the carpenter, the schoolteacher and the barber (you know- all the volunteer firefighters who never drive any trucks unless if driving to a fire......when many of them get tunnelvision or "Siren-Cide") how to handle this beast which is now handling more weight than it was ever intended to haul????

There is so much free money out there these days (homeland security, FEMA, emergency management....state and federal.......All you have to do is ask for it and the Feds are practically throwing money at Volunteer Fire Departments that need equipment.

So many guys have been hurt and even killed in converted tankers. Just dont want to see any more.

So many poor county governments down here. One local town here just retired their gas burning Mack fire truck about 6 years ago, I did the last tuneup on it before it was gone. One local county road dept was so happy to get a new to them 1999 CH converted dump truck. Before that their newest Mack dump had a 2 valve head engine in it. This is a county of 5123 people where 24% on them live below the poverty line and 30% are over 65 and on SS. Poor is poor and these small counties are happy to get what they can. However the state road departments in the same counties have new 2011 Mack GU's.

Our local fire dept got a USAF jet fuel tanker and converted it into a water tanker. Its a DM4929 last of vin is 002612 and has a 3208 cat with the muffler mounted under the front bumper. Will try to post some pics when we get done with repairs.

i have used the truckomat at larame,wy. got good service there, but they have wyo tech diesel school about a mile away.

i think they get young guys that enjoy their job.

from now on its them or mackpro.

I was setting on the back of the boat, deep in a 18 pack of Bud-lite when you texted me thoses pics of the oil trail behind your truck as far as the eye could see. My first thought was what blew apart and where were you at. Glad your engine was not ruined! I cant wait to get to work on your truck as 4 weeks solid of failing MP engines and this heat ( 104 in the shop the other day) has drove me to drink!

i dont know if anyone has had this problem but the place i work for has a 2004 mack vision and it keeps blowing off the rubber line after the exhaust gas cooler. mac says they dont have a clue can anyone help i get paid by the load and sittin at home dont pay the bills. thanks

I assume its not one of the coolant hoses. If it is the outlet hose of the EGR cooler (toward the front of engine) I would have to think its an overboost turbo problem. But I have pressure tested the whole intake system (including the EGR cooler and piping) as high as 45 psi and never blew one of those hoses. The hose should be a special stepped hose (bigger on the EGR cooler end and smaller on the Mass flow tube end ("S" shaped pipe)). A new hose with new clamps to start with and a test drive to see what the turbo Boost pressure is hitting. Also check if all 4 bolts/nuts are there to secure the EGR cooler to the block. Had one today with only 3 bolts holding it on and the vibration cracked the EGR cooler causing an external coolant leak.

Just waiting on u Bigen! LOL

Bro

For Me as being an employee of a mack dealer We go out of our way to be compeditive on those type jobber parts you speak of And Im here to tell ya (some) of that stuff sold is shit.

We got into that jazz for awhile selling no name reman and other (new) parts And Me And the rest of the Guys in the service were all over the parts guys to change back to buying parts thru the Parent company!Theres at least you will get a warrenty with the stuff you buy and the quality tends to be some what better.

The jobber stuff on the other hand tends to fail more often and you get to keep both halves when it breaks.

So the next time you see somthing so cheap sumwhere you can resist remember the old saying Theres likly a good reason. Not always but some times.

Also remember part of the reason the captive parts aer so high is the fact that the consumables are being exploited by the jobber types and the dealer has to keep the doors open some how! The profit on those consuables is narrow in part due to this exploitation.So theres no place spread the pain.

Just an opinion

From what I have seen I would use factory parts for anything on the engine. We had our local turbo/injector shop (which are great guys) start rebuilding our turbos, which was cheaper than the Mack reman but when they went down in California the warranty didn't mean sh*t to the Mack dealership out there. We use only Mack parts on the engines just for warranty cause any Mack dealership should honor as long as you have the reciept. But I'm sure their are some good aftermarket parts out there.

i was demoed an 04 460 18spd triaxel from f@c in st,louis, thing ran like a freakin dragster,i smoked everything in town with it.

but later heard it had a demo engine program, and would be detuned at first service.

is there any truth to that???????????

fan was loud as hell, with that kind of performance, i didn't care

I do have a "hot " program for a 427 AI enine that I put in my buddies CV, runs awesome, smokes the 460's but only in spring and fall. In the heat of summer (90+ degree days) the fan stays engaged to much on the slightest hills. He's bringing it back this week to put the old program back in it.

The best average MPG that we have seen with the AI engine in the CV/CT's is 5.2 and the guys were happy to see that.

but the cummins and CAT and other compagny keep full HP around 2100 rpm!!but the E-7 e-tech get full hp 1850 rpm and 1900 rpm + the HP drop around 70% , impossible get full tholle (2100 rpm) dowm hill.....

it very negatiF point for mack e-tech.....all idea are welcome...

Cat, cummins and other engines usually have alot more cubic inches/liters (and weight) than Mack's Etech engines so it could be easier for them to build HP at a higher rpm's. As far as turning up the RPM's or adjusting the power curve, it's impossible from what I'v seen. Unless you know a program writer that cam make a complete new engine data file. We use the older Mack service software on the ETECHs and ASETs. We also have VCADS but have found the older Mack service software is much faster and easier to use. Not much difference in what parameters can be changed using VCADS or the Mack service software on the ETECH's. Alot of fleets turn the rpms down to 1900 because anything above that your just wasting fuel.

I think the warning light comes on at 223^o with shut down at 225^o or somewhere in that range. If the shutdown parameter for coolant temperature has been turned off the light will come on but the engine will not shutdown. Try washing out between the radiator, CAC, A/C condenser, etc. If you still have problems drain the coolant and pull the "Y" shaped hose off of the oil cooler and check that the screen isn't clogged full of debris.

This service bulletin shows the location for the Y hose and screen. This bulletin is for the AC engine but the AI has the same Y hose and screen.

sb214056.pdf

??anybody??

i just need full hp to around 2050-2100 rpm!!! thank

We have tried to get the rpm up over 1950 while the truck is moving but was never able to. On most ETECH engines the HP curve starts to drop very fast after 1850 rpm. We tried changing tire size and transmission top gear ratio to try to fool the ECM into thinking we were in a lower gear. The ETECH engine will usually go to 2100 in every gear but the last one where 1900-1950 rpm is the max. The only ETECH I have seen that would almost hit 2000 in the last gear was a 1999 CL with a 460XT program in it. If you do get it to that rpm i dont think there will be any HP or torque there to do anything with.

Go to donaldson's website with your measurments and see what matches up and look at the DB reduction (sound level) to get the quietest they got. We (mack dealership) order single mufflers from them all the time. We have ordered some high flow prefromance mufflers from them for CX/CH trucks with great results. https://dynamic.donaldson.com/webc/WebStore/hierarchy/hierarchy.html?section=10022

I saw a posting on another site that the MP8 does not have EGR.Only SCR and DPF.Is this true?How often do you have to clean the DPF?Does it regen?Or does it only do a passive regen while going down the road?

We have never had to change the DPF filters on any of our Macks except 1 time when a turbo went out and filled it full of oil. Some of our trucks have 600,000 miles on them. On our SCR trucks ( about 6 total) no one has ever had to do a parked regen, it seems to do the regen going down the road and thats not to often.

my look at of hot fuel is there is more BTUs in a gallon of cold fuel than there is in a gallon of hot fuel. Other wise the temp of the fuel would not hurt any thing.

My thought is that the trucks around here run better in the 50-75 degree Spring and Fall. I dont expect a big drop in fuel temp but if I could knock 15-20 degrees off of a 100+ degree fuel temp it shouldn't hurt. I have already seen what leaving the coolant turned on to the fuel heater will do to MPG in the summer time and it is not good.

A few big orders going on. UPS ordered 50 more trucks, ABF ordered 300 more, and PittOhio orderd 70 more. Some larger export orders 30 GU's to Saudi Arabia, and 70 to Chili on top of what has already been built.

Seems UPS is still holdin on to alot of older trucks. We just started on a complete inframe overhaul on a UPS 2001 CX612 with god knows how many miles on it.

I wish I had wrote down all the specs and tips on MPG and power I heard when we had a Mack engineer at our shop. I will talk to our Boss and sales guys and see what they say. Best I remember they talked like running a rear gear ration real high and getting the RPM down as low as 1200 or just high enough to cruise down the road. I really need to ask them and write it all down again.

Where do I find the fuel temp sensor on a 2004 AI427? TIA

Passenger side of engine, right below #2 EUP where the fuel line goes into the side of the block. I'll see if I can add a pic tommorrow.

Mack sent me a new engine data file for your truck, next time your in we'll install it. they say no side affects at lower altitude.

i think ive nailed it down, its altitude. checking this trip to make sure but apears to be related to alt. above 10,000ft. boost is below 20 psi.

12,000ft. boost gauge reads get out and push.

could this be ecu program issue????????

I'll send in a E-service to mack about it. I think there is a download but I also hear it hurts you down around normal altitudes. I'll see what they say.