Mackpro

Yes but the EPA hit squad would take us both out if I told you.

Is it the FXL style axle with the sealed hubs like Mack uses, I think Mack got this from Volvo. I have the whole service manual I can email you. The file is to big to post here. Just keep that top nut tight and you will never have any problems. We could take a new truck to any of our local alinment shops and they would want to rebuild the front end, it seems that way everywhere! sb422008.pdf

This Mack service bulletin shows how to remove the lines and also the tool part # you can order from Mack. I think you can also use a fuel line disconnect tool as well. PV729-PI0787.pdf

Mack has updated that part several times, the newest version looks alittle different. We replace one a week or more in all MP engines.

Does anyone else get tired of the whining and boo-hooing about Volvo/Mack? It might not be the greatest deal that could have been dealt but here were are. Mack is still selling trucks and our dealership sold more new Macks last year than in a long time. We dont all live in the 70's and watch "B.J. and the Bear". However if your gonna bitch this is a good place for it.

SID-32 is the Mack 4-5 code, check out these to Mack service bulletins. wastegate 1.pdf wastegate 2.pdf

Looks like a turbo for a ASET AC-310/330 , AC-330/350 and AC-350 engines. Here is the turbo interchange bulletin on ETECH engines up through the ASET engine family. turbo interchange.pdf

I'm just glad that Macks are still being made and I have a job working on them. Otherwise I wouldn't get to be putting these 6 new injectors in this MP-8 this morning!

They tell us stuff like that also, we hear you gotta change the trans or add an trans oil coller or get a bigger clutch or rear axles. They are just covering their ass if something goes wrong. And it mostly for warranty reasons so if you do blow a rear axle that was rated to low for the HP and try to get it warrantied. We let the customer know what Mack said and let the customer decied if its worth the risk. 99% say go with it. Its not like these engines are every gonna put out 2250 Ft LBS of power and tear something up. We always tell Mack, yea we changed the rear axle or clutch or whatever ( as long as the customer knows) and they crank the HP up.

The download and turbo upgrade are useless with out changing to the bigger injectors, gotta change the injectors , their probably more important that the turbo. The turbo number we use is 631GC5173MX on the 427 and 460 but the number you gave does cross over and will work. The new injector # should be 736GB415M2X. The 427 and 460 HP all use the exact part numbers on everything ( except the 2002-2003 CCRS engines) , the only difference is the download. We always shoot for the 460 cause its the same money.

You should be getting around 30 psi of turbo boost now. It shows your engine ECM has been set to 427.HP. However doesn't look lke no one has updated the vehicle ECM in a long time. My screen shows it could be bumped to the "Step 12B" program. I figured while the truck was there they would have done that. It would help alot on throttle responce but would not keep you from getting the correct boost pressure. Also do you have the part numbers of the turbo and injectors they installed when they went from 400HP to 427HP?

Is the E-Tech Engine and the E-7 Engine the same? The tag that they put on my motor says E-7. Butch The name E-7 was used for many years and covered the E-7 manual pump engine all the was up to the ASET engines.

We tried boosting a RD from 350 to 460 with out changing the cam key way but it overheated in the summer time. We did a the same on a CH that had a new radiator and a air fan and it barely survived a summer, we later changed out the cam keys.

when I get to work Ill look at my HP upgrade chart and see what turbo, injector and if cam key way does need changing. Usually on the 427-460 ETECH (non-CCRS engine 2002+) you have to install a off set cam key-way to prevent over heating. And with your VIN I can see what datafiles have been downloaded to your truck, but the mack dealer website is down tonight for some reason.

Yes, something went wrong. Did they pull the camshaft out and put the off-set key way on the cam gear?

I think they have 3 versions of the MP-8 E, M and C and that new super low rpm engine (1100 rpm at cruising speed)) they have been talking about. And I think all of them have different sweet spots, From what I've seen they all have good power and MPG regardless of how they are setup. However getting them spec'ed just right can really squeeze some high MPG numbers out of them.

If both lighst on at the same time, it's the low coolant sensor or just low coolant. The RDs usually have a manual oil pressure guage then an oil pressure sensor for the ECM. Your manual guage can read fine but what matters is what the ECM see's from the oil pressure sensor.

The factory started installing the stainless steel cups/injectors when the SCR engines came out for the 2010 model year. On the older MP's when the dealer installed them (under warranty or otherwise) there was a big yellow decal that was to be stuck on the valve cover to let others know the conical kit had been installed. However the decal usually only stayed on for a year or two. We still install the copper cups on a regular basis on trucks that are out of warranty because of the high cost of the conical kit. There is nothing wrong with the copper cups if "INSTALLED CORRECTLY" . At our last two Mack schools 95% of the Techs were skipping steps and not following procedures correctly, my self included.

The first MRU frontloaders we sold back in 2008 were melting the plastic worklights and anything that was not made of metal under the cab protector. The bed company usually had a hole in the cab protector for the conventional muffler pipe to come up through. They were afraid that trash would fall through the hole onto the hot DPF and catch fire. So they put a block off plate over the hole. Now the heat from the DPF when regening was trapped under the cab protector and started melting anything near by. As per Macks instructions we removed the block off plate and put a piece expanded wire over the hole to allow the heat to escape and not let trach fall ontop of the DPF. Thoses 3 trucks are still running fine today with no issuses. However with the SCR now added and the different position of the exhaust piping thing are quite different. And as everyone said it could be a cracked filter.

Your about right on the RPM's as Mack recomends 1600 RPM cruise speed for the AC 350, 400 ,427 and 460 ( P and E models). The AC 330/350 and 355/380's recomend 1500 RPM. The 120,000 LBS,s might be the killer, our coal hauling guys down here that haul that weight get about the same MPG as you, They bought some CHU's with MP-8's and the 100 extra cubic inches helped their MPG by almost a full mile per gallon if not more in some cases.

also forgot, here is the cab height settings as well. cab height.pdf

Here is the actual Mack service bulletin, read very carefully as not all are the same and different frame heights on some models make a difference. sb136012 air suspension.pdf

Replace the boost pressure relief valve on top of the intake manifold elbow if it hasn't already. Have the complete intake manifold, piping and after cooler pressure checked. Get the "Step 12B program ( throttle responce program) installed at a dealer. Get the valves adjusted and replace the rocker arm hold down bolts with the newest part# ( could save u a $4000 cam job). If single exhaust replaced the muffler, at work I have the Walker or Donnelson part #(cant remember which brand) of a good cheap high flow factory fit muffler that is quiet but flows alot better than the factory. We have had good luck with it in MPG in some over ther road trucks. I'll post it tomorrow. Run a clean air filter and make sure the hole in the hood matches the hole in the air filter housing, make sure the rubber boot is on the opening on the air cleaner housing. If equipped with a fuel heater or a Davco fuel filter with built in fuel heater, install coolant shutoff valves and keep them shut off till near freezing. We have seen good MPG gains in the summer by not super heating the fuel. Mack now puts 10/30w motor oil in all their MP engine due to MPG gains but I dont know if I would change unless a total rebuild or reman engine just installed. The muffler I was talking about is a Walker part# 2191-m100436. It's the exact same size as the orignal and will bolt right on.

Remove the fuse box cover and turn the key on, to the left of the fuse block in the dash you will see 4 relays (not plugged into the fuse box) , the 4 wire plugs that plug into these relays are labled ' power relay 1" through " power relay 4" . 2 large red wires and 2 small wires on each relay. With key on check each red wire and it should have 12 volts on all red wires. Its hard to get to the red wires so I have a small 'U" shaped stiff wire that slips on my volt meter so I can reach them eaiser. If no voltage on any red wire then voltage problem from starter to cab. If only power on only one red wire per relay then key switch /fuse is bad or the relay itself is bad or the cab ecm (VECU) is bad.

Here's the free diagram off the Mack Trucks website, under service and e-media, lots of free info in there. http://www.macktrucksemedia.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductId=6547&GroupId=412 Its a large download. Just click on view file and its free