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steeler

Big Dog
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Everything posted by steeler

  1. I'll check that in the morning, but it doesn't sound like the brake is kicking in at all. I can even hold it wide open throttle, same 45 seconds, no crackle, pop, stumble, just shuts off.
  2. Instant shut off just like you turned the key off, but dash still lit. No stumble or anything.
  3. Filter should be right next to the evap, behind the center panel. Is your ac compressor cycling? If not could be a bad thermostat. Also make sure it has the correct charge amount.
  4. Working on a 2011 Volvo road tractor, not sure of the model since they don't put it on the vin label. It has a D13, came in with hard starting problem. It had 3 cups leaking. I changed injectors and cups, now the thing ribs great for 45 seconds and shuts off. It will fire right back up, run exactly 45 seconds and shut off. The key is jacked up in this thing, you can take it out whole it's running, and I'm pretty sure you could start it with a screw driver. No new faults, only the same one that was in it before I worked on it, for def level from the instrument cluster. Of course this one has the aftertreatment deleted as well. Is there any security feature I'm not aware of that would shut it off because the key is flopping around in there? I'm just grasping here, not sure where to go.
  5. Tell me about it! My mind used to be an encyclopedia of Mack part numbers. Our parts shelves lined up alphabetically, now I couldn't tell you the part number of squat.
  6. I'll give that an AMEN! None of us know what would have been if Volvo had stayed out of it, but this sucks. There is almost nothing I like about Volvo.
  7. THIS! Make certain you have the exact gasket that came of it.
  8. It's located below, and in between the ecu and the air compressor.
  9. I finally got it. I don't know how many revolutions I turned this thing, but the timing marks finally lined up.
  10. Agree. It would be very difficult if not impossible to get it in straight without the tool. Whenever I replace one, I always put some sleeve retainer on them. Don't know if it helps hold them better but can't hurt I figure.
  11. Yup, this has an idler gear that mates with the crank/cam/and accessory drive. But apparently it takes 900 thousand revolutions before the marks line up. I don't know if there is an easier way to go about it.
  12. I know it's not a Mack question but one got a M11 that somebody has installed the accessory drive out of time. How the heck do you time this thing? There is a rubber plug that allows you to see the idler and cam gear teeth, and I'm figuring that if I roll the engine around enough, eventually these will line up, but I've turned this thing till I have blisters on my hands and still haven't got alignment. I found the "v" mark for timing the accessory drive, and I can put it together lined up, but shouldn't the crank/cam/accessory drive marks all be lined up at the same time?
  13. TRAITOR!! Just kidding, but I wish there were a fix for this. Or maybe not, it's job security. Just finished one on a 16 with 60k miles.
  14. Yes, if I'm doing a valve and cooler, I'm going to go ahead and pull the turbo.
  15. Sounds like fuel pump failure symptoms, as fjh said, check fuel pressure first.
  16. Interesting. So are we talking flopping the fan blade forward away from the fan drive, or removing coolant tank, fan ring and fan?
  17. Only time I've run into this problem was after the customer had replaced the fuel filter head and put the check valve fitting in the wrong port.
  18. This crap is just ridiculous. In my case, I spent probably 4 hours diagnosing, checking, rechecking, because a freaking brand new fuel line wasn't manufactured properly. Plus the time to change it, which is a bit of a pain in the ass on a nasty leu garbage truck. And that's time you really aren't getting paid for.
  19. Oh ya, I could see a fire truck on the way to a fire then going into a 5mph def derate!
  20. Yes, quality control leaves a lot to be desired these days it seems!
  21. Update......found the problem. The fuel line that goes from filter head to engine had a brass T fitting in it with a small line running to the after treatment fuel pump. I replaced the line with a new one and they didn't drill all the way thru the fitting. Parts defect. Sure is aggravating!
  22. I've got a 2011 mp7 that we replaced the engine with a reman due to gear train failure. Trying to start the engine for the first time and I'm getting no fuel to the head. Weird thing is I've got 97 pounds of fuel pressure, engine will start, stumble around on maybe 3 cylinders then die. Now if I pump the hand primer, fuel will flow backwards, into the head from the front, nothing going in from the rear. All the fuel lines are routed correctly. Could a stuck check valve cause this? I know there are several in the filter head.
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