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mrsmackpaul

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Posts posted by mrsmackpaul

  1. 41 minutes ago, 70mackMB said:

    Seems l remember videos of an R model all apart not too long ago Paul.    .....Hippy

    True, it takes a lot for me to work up to a big operation like this though, it isn't something I just jump into

    These big jobs are a huge undertaking, even for people that have done a few of them

     

    Paul

    • Like 1
  2. 1 hour ago, allfritz123 said:

    Yeah  Joey I think I should just buy it.  I am doing the work myself and if I needed it again I will have it.  Ruining a seal or having one leak after a bad install is not worth it!

    I 100% agree

    I never new there was a proper tool, that been said I have made a mess of more than on in my life so I'm thinking 400 bucks plus shipping is a bargain compared to pulling the gear box out again

    For gentle heat 400f I use a old deep fryer out of the kitchen filled with oil

    I used to heat bearings etc in kitchen oven but found some times it turned them a little blue in colour, never had a issue but felt it was pushing my luck so I changed to a old deep fryer filled with hydraulic oil

    Works really well, I think it's a more gentle even heat

    All those other measurements are I think to make sure that the wear ring ends up in the correct location so the seal is fully running on it and not up on a shoulder or just on the edge 

    When these are done right they won't leak for a million miles,at least thats my experience 

     

    Paul 

    • Like 2
  3. 5 hours ago, 67RModel said:

    This is somewhat inaccurate. The puff limiter works off manifold pressure in the reversing valve on the intake manifold. Fuel pumps on trucks with a puff limiter system are full rack by default when the truck is stationary an parking brakes applied to aid in cold starting. Once the spring brakes are released, regulated chassis air is sent to the air cylinder on the injection pump. Once boost pressure is sufficient for full rack the boost pressure overcomes the air pressure supplied by the parking brake valve via the reversing valve that is tapped directly into the intake manifold. Boost pressure and chassis air pressure are always hydraulically "battling" each other in the reversing valve for control of the air cylinder in the injection pump. Once running, if the transmission is put into reverse and/or the low forward gear(s) the torque limiting valve is activated. It is piped from its location on the transmission up to the reversing valve (puff limiter) Once its activated it dumps the boost pressure to atmosphere that would normally build up in the system and allow full rack travel. By doing this rack travel is limited in both systems to protect the drivetrain in the low and reverse gears. Once the shift rails are moved to select a higher gear the torque limiting valve closes and allows boost pressure to build up and allow for full rack travel in the injection pump. The transmission (torque limiting valve) is part of the system but not the primary component. The torque limiting valve on the transmission is only there to protect the driveline. I would think by switching to an Allison and you could eliminate the transmission portion (torque limiting valve) of the system because the the torque converter in the Allision will provide a "cushion" to the driveline. Or just know how to use your right foot in low gear or reverse......

    A far better and more accurate description than mine

    But still not answering what actually happens when a Allison auto is fitted

    Is the line to the transmission on a Maxitorque box just capped off 

    I thinking that what ever is done for a Road Ranger would be the same as for the Allision auto

    Clearly I don't know but someone must be able to answer this accurately 

    Anyone have a air diagram that ahows what happens  ?

     

    Paul

  4. Did the Kwik lock system ever catch on and become wide spread ?

    It looks a little clunky to use and the US seems to love the pintle hook while the rest of the world uses the ringfeder

    Sorry RD006 I  have completely trashed your thread here by taking it off topic

     

     

    Paul

  5. Bugger me, that's cold B Mack

     

    And Rowdy there is nothing worse for me than get cold all the way to the bone and not been able to warm up at all 

    Stay warm out there you northern hemisphere lot

    We'll stay cool in the sothern hemisphere 

     

    Paul

     

  6. On 6/4/2022 at 2:28 AM, Brocky said:

    006, It will be hard to tell the exact year from those photos as the 200 series Brockway lasted for about 10 years with not many small changes..

    Paul, American Joe Dog equals an Aussie "Jeep"

    A Jo Dog set up ?

    I gather this what a Jo Dog is that you all were talking about a while ago 

    20240114_123946.thumb.jpg.8931258b6eed375e88a5f98218dd408e.jpg

     

    Paul

  7. 2 hours ago, JoeH said:

    But seller would need to explain that "1 of 3" BS.

    Does it even make a difference 

    To me it isn't bad buying at that money

    It's a good start for a project and everything after that doesn't amount to a hill of beans as the saying goes

    It really is a good start at a good price

    All the picking apart of a listing is kinda childish to me as no one is gunna keep it original anyway

    I hope who ever buys it enjoys it for what it is 

    Would there be many good B model cabs left in the states

    They didn't so much rust apart in Australia, more broke apart with metal fatigue with our fantastic roads

     

    Paul

  8. Looks to me like the radiator isnt original 

    Its orange the trucks yellow, this would explain the fan situation 

    As to the price, if it was out here you would get knocked down in the rush to buy it

    I would consider it to be good buying at that price 

     

    Paul

  9. Sounds to me like the shaft on the starter needs some lube for the solenoid be able to slide the bendix and close the contact

    Brushes could also be a issue

    If it winds over sometimes after tapping with a hammer then the windings are fine

    I would pull it out and fully apart

    Clean it, remove any rust or corrosion  lube the shaft and the plunger, test the windings, file or sand the contact disc amd reassemble, test and put back together

    Nothing worse than been broken down on the side of the road because of a dud starter

     

    Paul 

    • Like 1
  10. If we consider the air system on trucks never changed much at all over that period then that gives us a idea of how many tanks we need

    As to were tanks are placed, I can't help with that on  these truck's 

    FB_IMG_1703365252580.jpg.a05cb88437fef923d7c63f89e785d60d.jpg

    But here is a copy of the sign/name plate of all Macks sold in Australia for many many years that was normally screwed to the inside of the passenger door on all models of Macks soldin Australia 

     

    Paul

    • Like 2
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