AZB755V8

I found a NEW inline E9 pump and the topic strayed to Hot Dogging Macks and such. So this topic is about getting the most out of what you got, not just keeping the old dog barely alive. To start I Love BIG Power, it comes at a price but with these Old Macks is so EZ to Have. Not for everyday working truck modifications but for hobby trucks and occasional outings to take the old mechanical dog on a "Run". This topic will not be for all but will be useful information all the same. I finally got some space and time to pull out the Tank Quad Turbo set-up that I got some time ago. In preparation for this I was looking for inline E9 injector pumps. To start the NEW E9 Pump was damaged in shipment. Fed-Ex Said that claim was to be files by the shipper. Pump came from Italy so not hoping for a lot. It has to go to the pump shop for repairs so.... Lets get it Turned-up. Thinking 20% on fuel and 20% on the governor. This will be a Hot road engine maybe going in a MH Ultraliner that is out beside the shop, only has 118,000 original Km on the ticker. Along with that I got a pump or two that I got over the years to put on the calibration machine just to see where things are at. (2) 12mm, 13mm & 14mm shown. Power start with the pump and you got to know where things are at to begin with. Now the Tank Engine set-up. Mocking this up today on more than likely the engine that will be rebuilt to handle the power output that this set-up will deliver with a 14mm pump and a little "Secret" stuff. No shifting required with this set-up, as manual trans do not shift well over 2500RPM's. Trans is the bullet proof cable shifted, no electronics, Allison HT750CR Automatic. There were only a very few E9's with Automatics orders only by the US Military and I believe they were HT740 Allison's. Lets talk, Hot Rod Stuff, From the other post 300bar injector pop-off is higher than Mack spec but it works better for fuel atomization it is 50bar higher than Mack spec. About every 25bar the engine timing needs advances 1 degree, 2 degrees for 50bar.

I am going to start another topic: Hot Dogs, Can't Run Stay on the Porch. I stayed off this forum for some time from the shake-up but want liven up things a little with some like minded Mackholics. Lets talk Hot Dogs!!

If I was planning on putting a HOT E9 in a hobby truck there would be no need to get all kinds of parts, just work with mostly what I have. If all parts are reusable: Standard pistons, sleeves. Check diameters and roundness to specifications. Sleeves do crack, check to see if there is any rust scares in the sleeves. Hone the sleeves use new rings. All new bearings, gaskets and seals. "Small Head" bolts these are the better ones. Head bolts do snap on these engines. Do a valve job, check guides. Original valve springs should be fine, have them checked for seat pressure at install height. Maybe shim to increase seat pressure 20-25lbs. Valve seats come loose on E9's with added heat and not driving them properly. Never take your foot off the peddle completely after pulling a long incline. Keep some heat going on the downgrade. Turn pump up 20% on fuel and 20% on RPM's, that is 255cc on fuel, stock is 212cc for 500hp. Governor from stock 1900 to 2300RPM's. Use the stock injectors and nozzles set to 300Bar. This is good for 625 plus horse power and will run down any other truck on the road. Adding a new Borg Warner SE480, large exhaust wheel Turbo, around 1.18 A/R exhaust housing and that is it. You have to get a clutch capable of holding 3000ft/lbs of torque giving your left leg a workout. Most inline pumps ether 6 or 8cyl are 10-12mm barrels. 13mm and above sizes are not stock, in most cases, There is a 13mm, PE8P130A pump that is used on the Big Iveco Eurostar in Europe but is a base mount not a flange mount pump as on a Mack. One thing that I need to state DO NOT WORK ON ANY INJECTION PUMP, TAKE IT TO A REPUTABLE PUMP SHOP. You can not do the work without a calibration bench and machine. They will recalibrate the fuel delivery, the governor and pop off pressure for the injectors. There are very few shops that will modify a pump with larger barrels, cam, delivery valves, etc. Never use anything but factory Bosch parts for the pump. RPM's are not your friend the lower the better. I can say that a T2180 will not shift if you are over 2500RPM's, it will stay in gear until the input speed comes down.

It used to be TOP SECRET stuff. Sort of like keeping the HOT ROD tricks and secrets to gaining horse power in a small block Chevrolet from others. It doesn't matter now to many guys. When there was someone to compete against it mattered. It does matter to the Tractor and Truck sled pulling crowd and much is still secret for huge diesel power. Mack E9's have almost gone out of existence even at those events. The NEW pump that I just received is calibrated at 500hp & 1900RPM high speed limit but recalibrated is good for 900hp and any RPM up and over 6000 limits. Any mechanical pump has a range of fuel delivery and governor speed that can be set at a reputable injection pump shop. I am only talking for Mack E9's and if someone want to chime in please do. There are a some here that know more than I do, I hope to learn something as well. The E9 will produce a lot of power if it is taken care of. The length of time it can be producing large amounts of power is dependent on a even larger amount of variables, Temperatures and Pressures are critical, coolant, charge air, intercooling, oil, EGT and on. This engine was developed and spec'd by a Mack engineer, Steve Trevitz, that was instrumental in the E9 development at Mack Hagerstown. He was the factory E9 Hot Rod Guy. It will make 1500hp and close to 4000ft/lbs of torque @ 4000RPM. So that is double factory maximum governor limits and triple the fuel settings. There is more that is done but this is enough for now. Like sizing turbo, nozzles, fuel lines, charge pump volume and pressure, etc that have to work together. It starts with the injection pump. It is mainly the size of the plungers and barrels that inject the fuel into the engine. I have 11, 12, 13 and 14mm diameter pumps these are 12 & 14mm pumps. There are even larger pumps available but for competition use only. Just to say stock unmodified pumps are good for: 11mm (V-Pump) good to 650hp 12mm (P-Pump) good to 900hp 13mm (P-Pump) good to 1500hp this is the one on the engine above. 14mm (P-Pump) good to 2200-2500hp this is only a race or off road item and is modified. Alone with that nozzles need to be sized correctly and the all important Turbo. All of these pumps can make more power but have to be modified and that is the SECRET STUFF in the injection pump shop....

The difference in steering pumps is the truck not the difference in the engine. The difference is the steering box oil requirements. The old F, R, U and others had lower oil supply need to operate and the reservoir was attached to the pump. I have a single a double steering box truck with E9's for power. The double steering box pump and separate reservoir is considerably larger than the single steering box unit.

I would think they are interchangeable little 856cu/in to big E9. they have the same auxiliary drive housing. I have both but never took time to compare the two.

If you still have the 864 it is a double disc clutch. The tranny has to be for a double disc clutch as used on 864/865/866 as the input shaft is longer than a standard Triplex or Quad box. Hope you still have the double disc tranny. If not you will have to go with a newer longer input tranny used behind the newer engines V8 & 6's with that double disc pusher clutch setup. The old single disc will not hold 600ft/lbs of torque.

Only real difference between a 865 & 866 is the injection pump settings and the stamping on the oil pan rail. No difference in the air compressor that I know of think it is a Bendex 500 Trueflow. I may have one laying around. You got the power steering pump? There were several different ones for the V8's. The hardest thing to find is the drive gears for the compressor and pump.

See you got a B755 LS. The one I got has a 866 375hp and a Quad in it. What are you hunting for?

I would recommend a Borg Warner Airwerks Turbo. A SX300 or maybe a small SX400 would defiantly add a kick in the rear to the old dog. I do not mess with E6's but it is simply matching what you got with 25 year newer technology. You need to measure the intake diameter and exhaust diameter of the turbo. The other thing is the A/R number on the exhaust turbine housing. If these three things are known a turbo can be selected that will run circles around the stock one. Adding a turbo blanket helps also. Boost should be in the range of 50psi plus. Maybe turn the fuel up 10% and it will run like never before.

Been a while since my last visit but got something to tell. I have been looking for inline pumps for my E9's for years. Found a few, missed out on a few more. But today I got the Holy Grail of Mack Inline pumps. A new never on an engine PES8P Bosch E9-500 pump from Italy. A Smoking Deal to boot! Actually it is for a Renault 500AE Magnum which is the Mack E9's Europe name when Renault ran the company. Renault was responsible for putting the E9 in French military tanks and transporters rated between 750-900hp. This is probably one of the last new never on an engine pumps in existence. Just had to share something seldom seen or known to still be available. Wild goose chases do turn out well some times, didn't what to tell and junks myself before it was in my greasy hands. By the way there are rebuilt Bosch PE8P 13mm inline pumps available from the same place just not face mounted but a mounting place could be fabricated without to much trouble for Big Horse Power. Got a real nice BW S400 Turbo and new military nozzles to go with it too. How does a conservative 800hp sound?

Sorry a little rusty at uploading photos but this is it.

http://donwilbur.com/uploads/3/4/5/1/34514782/edited/1948-mack-ramp.jpg?1575419857 Found this by chance, no relation. Listed only as a 1948 Mack but is surly not. Looks like a complete B-73, L Cab and maybe a diamond in the rough. Has heavy cone axle rear. Make Offer.... www.donwilbur.com is where it is listed Located in Oregon

Sorry, the turbo's are long gone. All of the B and LT parts I had recently sold as well. Down to just complete trucks now.

No, Not at this time. Covid has all but shut down my business.

Sounds like a lot of talk but maybe that is all you are wanting. If pulling a head is to expensive and so on a Mack is not going to be an inexpensive toy. Stick with a small block Chevy maybe in a 70's car so parts are cheap and the vehicle is EZ to work on. I commented earlier in this post to help but did not think that it would be tuning into a snivel feast. So replace a piston & liner or two and get the old dog running instead of taking 2 weeks to talk about what you don't want to do. No one said a Mack was cheap so buck-up or shut-up. We are here for advise but you have to do something with it or it is a big waste of time for everyone.

From experience a mouse nest is not needed to have the condition you are describing. As said a valve or two is open at anytime in an engine just sitting. Water and moisture are usually the root cause of a stuck engine, be it gas or diesel. It takes a small amount to do damage to a cylinder liner, piston and rings over years of sitting. How the water/moisture gets into the cylinder is more a concern that what it has done to the cylinder. Most of the time it is though an open intake or exhaust valve. Removing the manifolds would tell that story. Other things that can happen are a leak in the head gasket or a crack in the piston sleeve for these wet sleeve engines. A cracked head is possible as well. I have had all of these issues over the years. An E9 ran great when it was pulled, I did not drain the block and stored it for several years in a temp controlled building. Pulled it down for rebuild recently and one cylinder had about a tablespoon of coolant in it. Liner was rust stained, small pits and under inspection had a 1 1/2" crack in it just above where the piston sat for years. It is hard to get a scope bent around to see the cylinder walls when putting it down the injector hole epecially if the rust is high in the cylinder. My bet is this condition, even if you get it unstuck there maybe ring, sleeve and piston corrosion damage. For oil filters it is not uncommon to have several oil filters on a truck. The large one with 1" lines is a full flow filter right from the oil pump. The smaller one is normally a bypass filter for other engine functions.

Sure, there are several ways to do it. Depends how good the fit is between the male and female parts. If there are groves worn into the female parts putty or cement is best. I think the actual seal rings from Mack are NLA. If you want to take the time get a piston ring catalog from Total Seal or some other ring manufacture, measure the female diameter and width of groove on the male and order rings to match, not the same as Mack parts but will work. Let us know what part numbers you come up with. If that is more than you want to do and have deep grooves in the parts get some boiler putty or wood stove seal cement. Got to leave it sit over night then run it up over 600 degrees for a while on the pyro the next day to cure, should be fine until next time.

The Gold one I have is flat on the bottom to sit flat on a surface. I can cut it to match the one already on the Superliner though.

Nice! There is a lot to work with there. If I didn't have one it would be mine. New wheels and tires on it are about half the asking price. If someone here gets it I got two fenders that are perfect to go on it in primer. Had then for my LTL but I have a really good set on it now.

Wow! That Steering wheel looks like new, no cracks anywhere. Only my observation for Originality but it is on the wrong side of the truck

This is your answer to the question Dayton or Bud hubs? Sorry for thinking you had Dayton hubs to go with Dayton rims. My misunderstanding. Just my ignorance but I have never come across a 24 inch Bud rim. 20 and 22 tube type,22.5 and 24.5 tubeless inch yes. But 24 inch no. You got a photo of the tire and rim?

CEAT tires are on my truck and put on it about 15 years ago and are not made by CEAT anymore. The ML tires are available in the 11.00-24 size are from Specialty Tires of America and their contact info is: Main Office and Factory 1600 Washington Street Indiana, PA 15701 Get Directions Tel: 724-349-9010 Fax: 724-349-8192 That is all that I can help you with and I can not make it any more clear. You asked for 11.00-24 tires, now it is everything but 11.00-24 tires. No, you can not put a Budd rim of any size on a Dayton hub. You have to stay with a 24 inch Dayton rim because you have 24 inch hubs.... Period! The ONLY tire that will work in your application is a 24 inch tube type, Period. If you want to change to Budd hubs you have to change a lot of parts as I stated before. Take the truck to a tire shop and see what they have to say, start by asking if they change tube type split rims? Best of luck.

No I do not mean 24.5 rims as they will not fit on 24 inch spoke hubs. What I am saying is changing to a new rim/tire size is a lot of work and finding the part for a 60 year old truck is not that easy ether. The easiest thing is replace the old tires with new ones of the same size and type. A tubeless tire can not be mounted on a tube type rim even with a tub, the lip is a different design. As fare as the STA tire it is period "time" correct for the age of your truck and you need to call STA to get price and availability, they may have front tires but only special order. The 10.00-22 tires that I run are around $450 a piece there which is not that high in my book. That cost is far less $$ and time than to convert everything over to a different size and type of hub "Budd type or spoke of a different size" if parts can be found. For a hobby truck these tire will be more than fine at lease for the rears. If nothing else is available for 11.00-24 fronts a capable tire shop can buff or cut a traction tire down to look correct for a steer tire for about $100 each. Glad to help

I stated: Went through this whole thing over 15 years ago. There are no major brand american made tub type truck tires anymore. I wanted highway tires and do not know what you use your truck for. That is when the Ceat tires where put on my truck. As you indicated they do not make these tires anymore. This is the STA tire. Superlug® Special ML Features and benefits: Drive wheel tire for on and off-road service – see service limitations below Strong carcass – extra ply construction Resists cuts and bruises Can be used in industrial service applications Category: Medium / Heavy Duty Truck Product Specifications Tube Type DUAL LOAD SINGLE LOAD SIZE FIG PLY RATING PRODUCT CODE TYPE TREAD DEPTH OVERALL DIAMETER RIM OVERALL WIDTH RATED COLD INFLATION MAXIMUM LOAD RATED COLD INFLATION MAXIMUM LOAD WT. 12.00-20 ML A G/14 HD8A6 ML-2 26/32 45.50 8.5X20 12.90 *** *** 85 6175 137 12.00-20 ML A H/16 HD2A8 ML-2 26/32 45.50 8.5X20 12.90 *** *** 100 6940 138 12.00-20 ML A J/18 HD2AA ML-2 26/32 45.50 8.5X20 12.90 *** *** 110 7390 163 11.00-24 ML A G/14 MD2M6 ML-2 26/32 47.80 8X24 12.30 *** *** 90 6610 135 12.00-24 ML A H/16 HD2B8 ML-2 26/32 49.60 8.5X24 13.00 *** *** 100 7380 168 12.00-24 ML A J/18 HD2BA ML-2 26/32 49.60 8.5X24 13.00 *** *** 110 8270 187 Superlug Special ML tires are stocked in limited quantities, call for availability. Maximum speed for ML tire is 50 MPH, loads can be increased by 32% for speeds under 20 MPH. *** Consult factory representative for exact loads. This is the STA tire information from the website. Not a bad looking tire and similar to the Ceat's on my LTL, old truck old looking tire. LJ Is just as old maybe older. Your truck, your way but easiest thing to get new 11.00-24 rubber on it or change a lot of stuff to get a different tire size. Think those 325/95R24 are tubeless? Is the rim different to mount tube type tires opposed to tubeless?