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Brandt

Bulldog
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Posts posted by Brandt

  1. I only cap MY casing. I don't know how somebody else took care of their tires so I don't trust somebody else's casing. That being said, I don't buy china anymore. The rubber composition does not lend itself to long life. The side walls weather check quickly and even in between the lugs will check. Usually you will get full life out of the casing, but I wouldn't cap a china tire and expect to get full tread life out of it before it blew.

    The last set I bought were Yokohoma's and I am very happy with them. I run my drives at 105 and the steers at 110, so I know the casings are well taken care of. I also get mine capped from a reputable capper. I have a local guy that I like, but if I'm on the road I find a Goddyear dealer.

  2. I have a TRTXL1070B (12 spd) with the air switch on the dash. My set up allows you to use the dash switch to go into deep reduction. With this switch engaged the stick stays in the "first" gear position. I can air shift the stick to 2nd, then throw the dash switch and airshft the stick back to normal "first" if I need to. Usually I just go from Deep reduction 2nd to normal second gear.

    I'm sure there is correct terminology for what I am saying - I just don't know it!!

  3. Looking at regearing and getting away from the spoke hubs. Found a cut-off set in a salvage yard today for $2500. They are from a 2003 Mack (mdl unkn) and have a 3.94 gearing, hub pilot. I like the idea of a smoother ride but will the air ride be stable enough and durable enough for a 12 yd dump truck?? Having just changed the air springs on my Western Star - they are 1000% easier than changing a leaf or leaf pack on a camelback.

    I am thinking of putting the air ride set up under a '91 RD 690 that currently has camelback. The spec sheet calls my axles SS440C and the carrier CRDPC92/CRD93. Does this mean they are 44K axles?? They are 4.42 gears.

  4. Ken tools also makes a 54" bar like the one linked to above. I find the 54" bar takes less energy to use and for a old kodger like me, I'll take all the help I can get.

    The flat spoon irons work well too but you need 1 of the above and 2 flat spoons, then nothing is impossible.

    The vaseline type lube works better than the dish soap type lube.

  5. No problem yet. It came on a dolly that I bought. I plan on pulling a pup with it and wanted to know how to adjust it before I went to pick up the pup. I'd hate to travel the 400 miles to the pup location and find out it doesn't lock up or is adjusted too tight.

    As long as it works, I'll keep it, until it doesn't. At that point, parts may be impossible to find and I will replace it w/ one from a salvage yard.

  6. The Holland rep came back and said that it is a Dayton Walther fifth wheel. Apparently Fontaine owned the name in 1987 and Holland sometime after that. I think parts support is pretty thin right now - except in Europe where they seem popular. They also seem popular with the US Military. Of course the gov't would buy them - overpriced and no parts support (or very expensive part support)!!

  7. Randomly my high beams shut off and leave me in the dark. The time that they work and the time that they are off varries from 30 seconds to 4 minutes. They even shut off on smooth roads and while sitting still.

    Is there a relay that could be overheating and tripping open?? If so, where would this relay be located?

    Anything else I should look for??

  8. When I turn my high beams on they work Ok for a while then they shut off - Leaving me in the Dark!! I have tried to time them and it varies from 30 seconds on 5 seconds off to 4 minutes on and 10seconds off. They also shut off and on while traveling on smooth roads and while sitting still.

    My initial guess was a relay that was getting hot and shutting itself off. Is there a high beam relay?? If so, where is it??

    Any other ideas on where to start looking??

    Now that the days are getting longer it isn't that big of deal. But, I do want to use the brights to avoid the deer, if I have to drive at night.

    I'm gonna move this to the Electrical and Lighting section

  9. This is a stupid question, but when did Mack start using computers on their engines?? Did they go complete computer control or did they phase it in with a fuel computer but not a full blown ECM??

    The next question is: If my truck does not have ANY computer on it, can I weld on it w/o disconnecting the batteries??

    I have a '91 EM7 300

  10. +1 on what 84 Superdaog said. With all the "baggage" on this truck I would look for a pre-03 DD. From what I have heard an EGR Detroit is hit or miss as a good engine. Some pull good and get 7.5 mpg, others can't outrun a '66 VW bus and get 4.5 mpg. If I were gambling with $30K I would get an '02 or older. I will take my '99 Western Star with a 12.7 DD to the grave with me (and there will still be life left in the truck!!)

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