Brandt

I have the PDLO switch for my CRD92/93 axles. I was wanting a left to right lock, but it looks like I'd have to get a set of cut-offs.

Thanx guys. I'll get them hooked up on separate switches. Good point on - if conditions are good for 25 MPH, then I shouldn't need lockers.

I've heard about the "peanuts" in the Mack diffs, but can't find a whole lot of detailed info.

I just replaced both of my Eaton diffs with "lockers". Now I need to hook up air and learn how to use them. What are the do's and don'ts on using a diff lock (as it relates to Eaton rears).

1) can I engage while moving? (in a straight direction)

2) Can I engage at any speed??

3) If I have just 1 diff locked, can I turn??

4) what will shorten the life of the locker?

Any tips on how to plumb these in would be appreciated. I have been told to run one air line and lock them in together. I have been told to tie the front diff in with the inter-axle lock. I have been told to run 2 separate air lines to allow me to engage the front OR the rear OR both locker(s). I have been told to tie both lockers into the inter-axle lock and when I though the switch - everything is locked!

PS

Can I get a similar set up for Mack top load diffs?

I have 5 gal of each oil. The diffs call for 3.5 gal. each. I am reconitioning them now (new bearings and such - same gears). I run in colder climates but am always 70K-86K and only run in the Rockies.

Eaton calls for 75w-90 oil in my diffs. Would it be a sin to run 75w-90 Amsoil in one and 75w-140 Amsoil in the other?

I am not familiar with the DDEC 2 strokes. However on a 60 Series I would suspect the fuel pedal. Is your fuel pedal electronic??

I would be removing a TRTXL to install this T2180. I got 2 quotes; one at $6500 and one "starting" at $5000, to rebuild this one. I haven't called the Mack dealer to see what a reman is usiing this core.

I don't put many miles on this truck in a years time. However I would like to pull a pup behind it and adding weight I sure would like the 18 spd.

I have and Eaton 13 spd in my road tractor, that has 1.1 mil on it. I bought a RTLO18913 at a salvage yard (as a core) for $2000. It is currently being rebuilt now and I will swap them out sometime in Oct. All total I will have $5500 into it, but will have a spare, working (but worn) 13 spd.

If I do the same with the Mack, I will have $6700 into it and a spare, working 12 spd.

What is the value of a used TRTXL 1070B 12 spd w/ 240K miles on it???

How much more are these to rebuild, than an Eaton? An Eaton core is $1500, I can get the Mack core for $200.

Looks like the "B" means a faster reverse. I wonder if the standard reverse gears can be put in it during a rebuild?

Thanx for the replies. I was told it was a 13 spd, but it looks like an 18 spd, by model #. It is being sold as a rebuildable core. Am I looking at $3500 to have it rebuilt? Or are Mack transmissions more that Eatons to rebuild?

I'm thinking of putting this in a dump truck - good idea or not?? I don't mind the slow reverse.

What can I be told about these transmissions? Are they reliable? Easy to rebuild?? Max torque it can handle.

What is the first gera ratio?

What is the top gear ratio?

Duh!! Senior moment ;-)

It does say SS440C - guessing that means 44K rears

That housing combination could be found in various 34,000, 38,000, 40,000 or 44,000 lbs. bogie models. Some were actually set up without a power divider.

Somewhere I got the idea that they were 43K or 46K axles. I don't know where I got that info from. How do I tell w/o tearing them apart and measuring bearings?

Are the 315s ran as duals or are they singled up?? Finding rims for singled up Daytons might be difficult.

Can any one tell me more about the CRDPC92 and CRD93 axle assy?

How much weight do they run on that single screw?? I can see maintenance in the future! Do they need the short wheel base for tighter turns?

I looked into them last summer (before I bought a set of 8 11Rs). I ran into a few hurdles that I couldn't seem to overcome. I don't know if a 315/80/22.5 will work in a "dual" position or not.

I'm running 11R 22.5 tires and with the spoke hubs a switch to 24.5 is as cost effective as regearing.

The engine is an EM7 which peak torque is at 1050 and peak HP at 1710rpm. I'm also running a 1070 12 spd, so with the 2 deep reduction gears, I think I would be OK with 3.87's. However I do think 4.17's are ideal.

Are all the Mack gear sets interchangable?? Or do I have to get gears from a set of axles that have the same weight rating and model.

I have 4.42's in my truck and am looking for a bit lower rpm at highway speeds. Is it cheaper to find the diffs with the gears I want (4.17 or 3.86) or to buy an entire rear clip?? I have cammelback suspension and want to keep it. I also have spoke hubs and they could stay or go. It would be nice if I could find a set of diffs with lockers, as I spend a good bit of time off road. I don't know what my current axles have for weight rating, but everything on this truck is built heavy. The build sheet says I have CRDPC92 and CRD93 axle assy.

Looks like #1 read 97*, and #3 read 106*. The rest were at 197-210*, while warming up.

The old Detroits could get more HP with bigger injectors, can the same be true for 4 stroke Macks?? I'd like to get more HP from this engine and will eventually be getting a larger turbo also.

What injector # should I look for??

Is this something an average wrech turner (me) can do, or do I have to get everything calibrated to each other?

In the morning my truck runs rough and is now starting to backfire. It may have always had a slight backfire, but I notice it more now running straight pipe. This happens between 1200 and 1650rpm when the temp gauge is below 155*. It will spitter and have reduced power. It also blows a lot of smoke (bluish white). From 156* to 180* there is an improvement, then at 180* all is good. If I keep the rpm's up above 1650 the truck runs OK, except in top gear then she falls on her face.

Is this typical for a cold engine or is something amiss??

'91 RD 690

EM7 300 HP

1070B 12 spd trans (.78 OD)

computer goof

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