steelman

I have a 1946 EH Mack I am going to sell (too many projects). Truck is complete, and engine runs great. Radiator looks new, and I have new master cylinder and wheel cylinders. Brake lingings are good. Truck had been blasted and primed and left outside, so it has surface rust. Rust through in a couple of places. Have radiator shell, chrome strips, etc. Clear Virginia title. Located in Fredericksburg, Va. 1 1/2 miles off I95, 50 miles south of Wash. DC. I am considering taking to Macungie along with other items I will never get to. Is there any interest? Other pictures available. Carey Leitch, caricoinc@verizon.net, 540.373.5983 days, 540.371.2301 evenings.

Hello, I have a 1918 class B Liberty truck I am currently working on.This is the truck designed by the quartermaster corps for use by the US Army in WW1 under the motor transport corps. It is complete, and I have had it running. I have the transmission out at this time, and hope to blast the frame soon and repaint OD green. I also have a 1918 AC Mack which was sold to the US Government for export to France. It never made the trip, and became a Baltimore Fire Dept truck until the mid 70's. I bought it in 1981. I also have a Mack built trailer, built 1917/18 for use as a searchlight trailer. I had it at Macungie this past year, and Don Schmacker took pictures and sent me copies of about thirty pictures they had in the archives of these trailers. Not much info out there, or any indication as to how many were built. I have a picture of one with a 3" gun on it being used for antiaircraft duty.

I have one exactly like it. I have owned it for years, and it is in about the same shape, if not a little worse. I always wanted to use the cab for an extended cab B model pickup truck (on a Dodge diesel chassis I have), but probably won't get to that project any time soon. Would make a welcome addition to my "herd", but not at that price.

I have used oven cleaner, like easy-off, to strip paint off of boats and other machinery. Works extremely well. Just keep a water hose nearby to rinse occasionally and to spray your body parts if you get it on you. You MUST wear safety glasses and rubber gloves!!! Any caustic solution will remove most paints (think lye), that is what oven cleaner is. It actually worked much better than the so called paint strippers except aircraft stripper.

I have a mack built trailer built around 1917 or 1918. It was built for the military for use in world War 1 and used to carry searchlights or antiaircraft guns. I brought it to Macungie this last year and Don Shumaker provided me with 40 some pictures of them from the factory when built. I am restoring it along with my ww1 AC which was sold to the US Govt. For the war. The trailer has four solid rubber tires, and a picture of a similar trailer is in Montville book, Mack, on page 65.

I have been a hobbist involved in antique cars, trucks, steam engines, antique engines, boats, guns, etc. for 50 years. It has been true, and will probably always be true, that the cost of a professional restoration (including the initial purchase price) will always be more than you will ever sell it for, making adjustments in the value of money over time. The only time I have seen this not hold is with some extremely rare or highly desirable vehicles that were limited production or lost due to wars, fires, etc. Examples would be Auburns, Cords, Dusenbergs (sp) and vehicles such as those. Unless somebody really wants that truck that was restored, it will be hard to get the true cost out of it if you count your time, material cost. Most of us collect/ restore things out of love for the items and the history involved. Just my 2 cents worth.

Carlotpilot: I know LLoyd, known him for years. He closed his shop a few years ago, but he and the wife are still around. He is still active in the Fredericksburg Historic Region AACA club here in town. Steelman

Yes, the small welders would be perfect for 12/14/16 ga. sheet metal and angle up to probably 1/4". It is for those thicknesses that we bought the machines, as well as the small, light footprint. We use CO2 for hard wire and fluxcore wire for most things (its cheap), but use 75/25 mix if we want to reduce splatter. Most of our other welders are inverters up to 450 amp, but they are rather expensive.

I run a steel fabrication shop, and I would suggest the Miller or Lincoln 110 volt machine. I personally have a Lincoln at home, and it comes with a gas regulator. I have used gasless wire, flux core and hardwire, and its handles it just fine. We have several at work that are over 15 years old, and they get quite a workout. You won't handle thick material with it, as they generally top out at around 120 amps on 110 volt, but are very well built for the job they are intended for.

I have an 18 speed out of a B model that is disassembled. Has an aluminum case. Needs bearings and clean up. Was removed by the previous owner after engine needed work, and I bought it for the cab for another project. Would that be of any interest? Don't have a price in mind, I have no plans for it.

I have some wooden ladders on a 1924 AB ladder truck I have that I won't be needing. They are rough, but someone might find them useful. Located in Fredericksburg, Va. Steelman

By the way, mine has a 12 volt generator on it. It appears to be original.

Nice truck! I have one just like it, just not as pretty. I was wondering if you could tell me the numbers or any info on the distributor vacuum advance. Mine is rusted out, and I can't find one to fit it. If I had the numbers on it and make, I might do better. Thanks, Steelman

Just saw this thread today. Very nice truck. In reading the posts, last year you said finding a rebuild kit for the carb, SF3, was impossible. Not so. Call Treadwell carburetor in New York. Very nice folks. I bought three rebuild kits for the SF3 last year from them, as I have these on some AC's I own. Very reasonable price, and they can overhaul your carb (or just about any other, old or new).

I called and talked with Mr. Sprowl some 20+ years ago, and wrote down the specs regarding what he had done so I could build mine. I will try to locate it in my office. He narrowed the cab, shortened the height of the fenders and radiator grill, eliminating the small running light below the headlight, used a B67 (shorter) hood, first used a cummins 4BT but later changed to a 6BT, used a Ford 350 frame, and cut down the stepside fuel tanks. I seem to recall the front fender mods being the most difficult. Steelman

Jerry, I plan to be there Thursday afternoon. See you then. Carey

I believe the yellow one has B model fenders on the rear mounted backwards. Yes, George Sprowl did the green one as well as a couple of others. I first saw them years ago at Hershey. I always wanted to do one for my daily driver, and he was very good about sharing information with me about the details. I still have a 1993 Dodge with cummins I bought to make the conversion. Steelman

Thank you for the info. I had forgotten to book a hotel. Called today, got my room at the discounted price. Thank you again. Carey

The fellow ???? standing between Mack Altoona-Tom and fxfymn-Carl is me, steelman-Carey. I had the 1918 WW1 unrestored Liberty truck inside the building.

Nice truck. The headlights look to be adlake electric headlights. I have some just like it on another truck. 1922 was the year the bell shape or hood shape plates started to be used. The radiator is the early style, which I believe was not being used at that date. Are you sure it is a 1922?

Or Coker Tire, in Tennessee.

Try Miller Tire, Wauseon, Ohio

We bought one from Northern Tool (now Northern), about 25 years ago or so to do a job cleaning up a railroad station before hanging some new steel and painting. We use it regularly, and it still works great. It has a Honda engine. Buy the good stuff. Price is long forgotten when you buy quality.

Thanks, Paul. I couldn't find out how to contact anyone there (I am only 22 miles away). This helps a lot. No, I didn't get the tranny. The one in the new truck is different. There are lots of parts on it I do need though. When I am done, I think it will make a pretty cool display unit. Carey

I was looking for a transmission for my Liberty, as the one in it is not the proper one. I had placed ads in Wheels of Time and the Double Clutch, with no responses. John Boyajain out in California saw my ad and called me a month ago and said he knew of one in Dinuba, Ca. in a truck junk yard. With their help, I located the yard , and they donated it to me if I would acknowledge their donation. Larry Garabedian, Plant Manager, and Daniel Holeman, Yard Manager, at LKQ Truck Parts (550-490-4726) in Dinuba, California have been most helpful, and graciously donated the truck to me in order to help with my restoration. I just had to truck it across the country. Please keep them in mind when you need parts for your more current trucks. This hobby has some of the nicest people in the world. For years I was a member of the AACA (antique auto club of America), and the old truck, steam and gas guys can't be beat!