mattb73lt

Restoration Specialties should have them and Chuck Roser (kingofsalvage.com) carries them.

From what I see in your photos, if that sleeve presses on and is designed to wear, it wouldn’t be very hard to have one machined up if you can’t find a new one. It may not need to be hardened if it’s purpose is to wear, either.

The Holy Grail of Mack trucks. About 2,000 built and every year more re-appear, I wonder how many actually survived? 

Sacrilege that someone would have the balls to steal the fenders off it! A thought on that, I wonder if a pair of Peterbilt aluminum front fenders could be re-worked to fit, at least to get it back on the road. Someone was making fiberglass LT fenders a long time ago, but I don’t recall who.

One of theses things is not like the others...... They're out and still no visible damage to the block. We'll see about that as I clean it up and have someone look at it. If I was a betting man, I would say the main cause of the failure was poor workmanship and improper installation of the sleeves. While things were a little crusty on the inside, I found no major pitting on the sleeves. But, #4 & #5 and probably #6(too much is missing to be sure) had lower seals the were damaged, split and broken. What I think happened, was that as I was driving it they began to leak dumping the coolant into the pan. It then began to overheat #6 and score and break the sleeve. The temperature sender is way up in the thermostat housing and not in the block, once it runs dry it's not going to read an overheat internally. 

Yeah, I’m in agreement with Glenn, too. I did have wet fuel on top of 3 piston heads, 6 being one of them when the heads came off. I barely ran it when I turned it around in the driveway. Everything was covered in oil as it came apart. I’m hoping to see some other kind of evidence to the cause when the sleeves come out. #1 piston looks brand new with almost no wear seen on it.

A lot goes into “what’s it worth?”, when looking it something. Is it what you want? Does it have the driveline that’ll make it drivable the way you want to use it? Is it’s basic configuration useable to you, body on it(as in a dumper or flatbed?)?. General condition, rust bodywork, paint?

Is it a project or something turn key? That’s a big question, because if you don’t have the space, tools and skills to do it yourself, it’s going to cost you a lot more to pay someone to do it for you.

It was running great and sounded amazing on the road. Really good oil pressures and temps...until it failed. I think time was my biggest enemy. I was told it was a fairly fresh rebuilt when I bought it, but then it sat 20+ plus years in my shop before I had it running. Even if there was only a little corrosion on the liners it doesn't take much moisture to keep it going, just even a little bit. I pickled it, but I didn't fill the water jacket with anything. Maybe if I had filled and drained the water jacket with oil just in case. Tear down will show it there any corrosion in there.

Mahoney's is still around. They were VERY helpful when I was adding the Jake to the engine, by loaning me some fixtures to grind the rocker arms. Thank you for those numbers, They may come in handy as I move forward. I was in contact with the local Cummins shop in Rocky Hill, CT. The person I spoke to was very helpful and optimistic about putting a rebuild kit together, if needed.

3 minutes ago, yarnall said:

I’m not trying to rub salt in your wounds.  How much will you have to take the truck apart to get the engine out and how will you avoid messing up the paint?  I’m no mechanic.

 I’m sorry for you loss.  Thoughts and prayers and all the other dumb stuff that people say.  I know you can fix it though.  Mike.   

I’m going to pull the hood, fenders and radiator off and store them until the engine goes back in.. The rest I’ll leave where it is until it goes back in. All that should go faster than when I was putting it together, as all the fabrication and hardware is there now. The engine will go back into the shop for more work. It’ll need to go out for some work, but I’ll do most of it. I was on the phone and internet a lot today, sourcing parts and services for the rebuild.

Just now, Mark T said:

The pieces look big, which means less chance they made it through the screen.  

Yeah, don't think the smaller pieces did. I'm going to cut the filter open and check the paper element. We always did that during an aircraft oil change just to mack sure nothing was making metal.

3 minutes ago, Mark T said:

It's a project. Point I was trying to make was the block and crank might not be compromised. That milky oil needs to come out of everything too  . ( Jake's )  old engines were prone to putting, they didn't have as many products to help prevent it years back. Sitting for years then....  

It all needs to get flushed out and checked. It's always a risk waking up something from a long slumber.

13 minutes ago, 1961H67 said:

I can’t recall seeing that happen before, I have had the top flange break and drop the complete liner, probably all caused by setting for years,,, mine may be the same way. Hopefully just cylinder kits , bearings and gaskets. It’s just a big hassle to pull it having to take care of all the perfect paint. 

Yeah, I think it's age and fatigue related. About 4"s of the sleeve broke off.

3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said:

Forgive me for not knowing, but what engine is in the truck? I thought I saw yellow paint, but....   that may not mean anything..  jojo

It's a Cummins NH220

20 minutes ago, Mark T said:

Might have been rotted around the groves for the O rings.  This isn't looking like an easy fix by any means, but it may not turn out to be much more than basically an "in frame"   Hopefully you'll get lucky.

It needs to come out. I don't trust the sleeves that are left. It needs to be gone through completely and I need to have some confidence in it when I'm far from home. 

That's where it seemed to have fractured, right around the upper groove for the o-rings.

The jury is still out, but this isn't good. I only drained about 2 1/2 gallons of antifreeze from the radiator and about 15 gallons of grey soupy mess from the pan. I had a piece of o-ring come out while draining it. Eventually got the pan down and found a large quantity of sleeve pieces laying there. I think its at least two different sleeves judging from the color of the o-ring materiel. Still no idea how bad the crank is and now i'm worried about the block having some damage too. Tomorrow I'll continue to dig into it by removing the heads and hopefully the rods/pistons as well.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed that both the crank and block will survive, but with these big pieces I'm very skeptical. And it still didn't seem to be skipping when I moved it yesterday. I only ran it long enough to get some air pressure to get the maxi's off and move it at an idle

5 hours ago, dockmen027 said:

If you need to talk to someone about the Cummins, Dave Crump of Crump Diesel in the Albany NY area would be the one....

Ok, thank you!! Hopefully tomorrow I can drain it down and drop the pan. I was going over in my head what happened and first I’m not thinking it wasn’t a head gasket. The dipstick is way over full and hasn’t settled out yet. It never overheated on the gauge and I’m leaning towards maybe a liner let go and put antifreeze into the pan. It wasn’t skipping and hit on all six. My big concern is the clattering in the engine and a sudden drop of about 10+ psi in oil pressure. I may have spun a bearing before I could get it stopped. I’m worried about damage to the crank, if that’s the case.

And it was running so good. We’ll see what comes as I dig into it.

2 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

checking the pictures of the bed;;  couple questions == 1- is the head board staying as is?: 2- side rails in future:3- piece on bed combo ICC bar and hinged tilt assy?. thought earlier text said you were making a tilting bed? 

Yes, it’s another roll back. Headboard will remain and be repaired. That I’d the tilt device on the bed. It pins to the rear frame work.

2 hours ago, mechohaulic said:

Does a person have to be a registered member of the club to attend the seasonal party ? waiting to see the B-73 /also haven't seen Matt Pfahl in along time.have been around the corner working in shop , 

I’m not sure. But, the B73 isn’t going, now. I’ve got an issue with the engine and I’m worried it is a big one. I haven’t had time to investigate, hopefully later this week. More to follow and an engine pull may be looming. CRAP!

Trying to make it up to a club seasonal party at Matt Pfahl's on 10/23 for it's public debut.

3 hours ago, mowerman said:

Excellent bud thanks for sharing you didn’t mention anything about squeaks the rattles so yes I think you’re in like flint all that work certainly paid off … as far as DMV we have a same thing here they just built a brand new huge facility people tell me they still have to wait in line for hours just to get to a teller I haven’t been down there in a long time my vehicles are of late models and I just send the registration through the Internet anyway great job bud Have a ball … bob

I couldn't hear any yet, it was too loud. I only had some towels covering the floor, carpet is coming.

5 hours ago, Nor'Easter said:

Can't wait to see a drive video.  That one on facebook was a major tease Matt!

I'm definitely going to made one up and post it once I get some more things worked out and finished.